Problematic Posted February 16, 2014 Report Share Posted February 16, 2014 My car is a 94 Buick lesabre with a 140 amp alternator, an everstart maxx 850 cca lead acid battery up front, and a shuriken 45ah agm in the trunk. Also running a Rockford t10001bdcp and diamond audio hex pro 15" sub at 1 ohm. Would I be better off getting rid of the stock battery and just using the shuriken? I'm worried about my alt overcharging my agm. Also does the stock battery negatively affect voltage discharge to the amp? Are there any ways to use the stock battery to solely run the cars electrical while the shuriken is used for my amp? Any answers are appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowDrifter Posted February 16, 2014 Report Share Posted February 16, 2014 Technically speaking, they are all lead acid batteries. That being said I'd replace your front battery with an AGM battery ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowDrifter Posted February 16, 2014 Report Share Posted February 16, 2014 Also: Welcome to SMD ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Problematic Posted February 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2014 Had to add more. Posted first time on accident Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karkov Posted February 16, 2014 Report Share Posted February 16, 2014 Technically speaking, they are all lead acid batteries. That being said I'd replace your front battery with an AGM battery X2 2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD) 12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option 2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67 3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet) 1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4 4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps (rear fill only) 1 ~ XS Power D4800 1 ~ XS Power D3400 8 ~ XS Power XP3000 160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power 320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/knfjdkghjudfhsgkjdhf/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Problematic Posted February 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2014 Well I will eventually replace, but for the time being without spending any money on a new battery, what is the best route? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Schenk Posted February 16, 2014 Report Share Posted February 16, 2014 keep the stock one up front for now and the shuriken in the back and i would just save for another shuriken up front the biggest that will fit. On 3/28/2014 at 4:22 PM, KyLar96 said: Its all about the music anyway..... Do a proper install, something your happy with, Fuck everyone else...... improve in time, where you can..... its not rocket science... Tiburon build //www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/174059-97-hyundai-tiburon-build-from-ramming-to-slamming-slow-5k-build/ 2000 Mountaineer build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186736-2000-mountaineer-build-from-ramming-to-slamming-part-iislow-5k-builddc-audio-americanbassxspowersingerarcaudiostingershcavideo-on-pg7/ 2000 Mercury Mountaineer: Electrical:Singer 360 hairpin powdercoated white alt, Big 4 double run 1/0 SHCA OFC, 4 runs 1/0 OFC SHCA, limitless 70ah, HU: Pioneer deh80prs interiors: Skar sk85.4 on sb acoustics neo dome tweeters 2 Mmats sq4100s on 4 silver flute 8s(4ohm) SUB Stage: 3 DC5K [email protected] on 6 ascendant audio mayhem 12s d1.4s fully loaded Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Schenk Posted February 16, 2014 Report Share Posted February 16, 2014 welcome to SMD On 3/28/2014 at 4:22 PM, KyLar96 said: Its all about the music anyway..... Do a proper install, something your happy with, Fuck everyone else...... improve in time, where you can..... its not rocket science... Tiburon build //www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/174059-97-hyundai-tiburon-build-from-ramming-to-slamming-slow-5k-build/ 2000 Mountaineer build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186736-2000-mountaineer-build-from-ramming-to-slamming-part-iislow-5k-builddc-audio-americanbassxspowersingerarcaudiostingershcavideo-on-pg7/ 2000 Mercury Mountaineer: Electrical:Singer 360 hairpin powdercoated white alt, Big 4 double run 1/0 SHCA OFC, 4 runs 1/0 OFC SHCA, limitless 70ah, HU: Pioneer deh80prs interiors: Skar sk85.4 on sb acoustics neo dome tweeters 2 Mmats sq4100s on 4 silver flute 8s(4ohm) SUB Stage: 3 DC5K [email protected] on 6 ascendant audio mayhem 12s d1.4s fully loaded Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Problematic Posted February 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2014 So I guess I'll keep things the way they are now until I can upgrade. I'm still wondering if there is a way to isolate the agm from the cars electrical accessories so it's only being used by the amplifier, but also still being charged by the alternator. Can you run one positive lead from the alternator to the battery up front and one to the back? As far as I know the voltage regulation will still be dependent on the first batteries voltage, therefore the agm in the back will not charge according to amplifier demands. If there is a way around this, please let me know. Is there any real world advantage to doing this or am I completely wrong in my understanding? Please let me know. Btw thanks for the fast responses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaskanzx5 Posted February 16, 2014 Report Share Posted February 16, 2014 even if you ran a wire to the back alt from the alt the 2 wires from the alt to the battery would be touching so they would still have a connection. ive read posts from mechman alts that running 2 wires off an alt could have a negative result. look at a battery isolator by the way. im going to think outside the box on this one by first asking a question then secondly giving my reply to to your answer if your answer was to be a yes question what is your voltage at its lowest point? if its above 13 volts remove the front battery and put the agm in its place and test voltage to see what it drops down to. if it still stays above 13 volts leave it there and call it a day because your doing good. add a second battery when you can but it wont help much since your already falling close to battery voltage. an alt would be a better choice. something in the 175-200amp range should work. question big 3 done? good. if not do it. then repeat the test above. it can help by lowering resistance and allowing more current flow quest what does the wiring look like? are all your ground to the frame? sanded no rust? tight and secure? what size wiring going from front to back? fusing done correctly (front battery-fuse------fuse-back battery-fuse-amp)? make sure all the wiring is solid then repeat the voltage test. now the reason for this is the t1000.1bdcp should only pull around 100amps max maybe up to 150amp but doubtful. on music it should be considerably less. a 140amp alt should be able to keep voltage up into the low to mid 13s if wiring is solid with just a single decent sized agm battery imo. ive seen builds pushing far more with alts around 200amps and just 1-2 batts not dropping below 13 volts. I believe you should be fine with just the one agm batt but to make sure do the above mentioned testing/checking. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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