95legwagon Posted February 16, 2014 Report Share Posted February 16, 2014 raptor wire is WAYYYY undersized...... 4 awg is more like a good 8 awg wire. go with a quality wire like knukoncepts or sky high. i think there real i was looking through that guys stuff he sells and it looks like he finds stuff at auctions and just sells it Yea, it looks like someone got the mids about a month ago....shit. If I had a whole Hertz front stage my ears would jizz all over my cheeks. / LOL My Low Budget Build: Green 1995 Subaru Legacy wagon 147k- $1K headunit- pioneer premier deh-p650-$25 4 Lead acid batts. 1 up front and 3 in back- vented outside.- $50 4 vvme L11 10"s <- $30 shipped a piece 6 cu. ft box (after displacment) tuned to 32ish hz with 10 inch sonotube. -about $50 all together maybe a lil more 2 aspm 1300 strapped Selenium 6"s in the front doors on headunit power- for now -$20 quantum tweets in door-for now -$10 boston acoustic 5 1/4 in rear doors- for now-Free big 3 1/0 and 4awg throughout. roof sound deadened (not peel n seal ftw)-free on 80 amp alt (bench tested to put out 100 amps faithfully) <--?-$10 for test about $430 for everything<----Not bad at all still gotta add 3 way crossover, amp for front and rear door speakers and maybe eq Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowDrifter Posted February 16, 2014 Report Share Posted February 16, 2014 look at a battery isolator by the way. IMO, don't ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowDrifter Posted February 16, 2014 Report Share Posted February 16, 2014 Any way you can put your rear battery up front and live without a rear battery for a bit? ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miguels Posted February 16, 2014 Report Share Posted February 16, 2014 kicker, fosgate, monster, Sky high, Knu, XS power, skar and JL audio are wires that are quality.. i have bullz audio just to compare and its quality has gone up. could say it matches close to the XS power wire i have my logshttp://www.stevemead...-my-new-set-up/my blow through loghttp://www.stevemead...future-updates/ 96 ss http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/164094-96-impala-ss-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95legwagon Posted February 16, 2014 Report Share Posted February 16, 2014 look at a battery isolator by the way. IMO, don't x2 waste of money unless you play your system with your car off alot i think there real i was looking through that guys stuff he sells and it looks like he finds stuff at auctions and just sells it Yea, it looks like someone got the mids about a month ago....shit. If I had a whole Hertz front stage my ears would jizz all over my cheeks. / LOL My Low Budget Build: Green 1995 Subaru Legacy wagon 147k- $1K headunit- pioneer premier deh-p650-$25 4 Lead acid batts. 1 up front and 3 in back- vented outside.- $50 4 vvme L11 10"s <- $30 shipped a piece 6 cu. ft box (after displacment) tuned to 32ish hz with 10 inch sonotube. -about $50 all together maybe a lil more 2 aspm 1300 strapped Selenium 6"s in the front doors on headunit power- for now -$20 quantum tweets in door-for now -$10 boston acoustic 5 1/4 in rear doors- for now-Free big 3 1/0 and 4awg throughout. roof sound deadened (not peel n seal ftw)-free on 80 amp alt (bench tested to put out 100 amps faithfully) <--?-$10 for test about $430 for everything<----Not bad at all still gotta add 3 way crossover, amp for front and rear door speakers and maybe eq Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miguels Posted February 16, 2014 Report Share Posted February 16, 2014 look at a battery isolator by the way. IMO, don't x2 waste of money unless you play your system with your car off alot i wouldnt play music with the car off.. people think just because you have a isolator you can drain your rear batteries and it is all good.. while you can turn your car on and get home you are damaging your alternator your batteries and your amplifiers my logshttp://www.stevemead...-my-new-set-up/my blow through loghttp://www.stevemead...future-updates/ 96 ss http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/164094-96-impala-ss-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaskanzx5 Posted February 16, 2014 Report Share Posted February 16, 2014 wasn't saying to get an isolator was just saying to look at it. he was asking if there is a way to isolate the rear battery from the front so I told him what to look at for that. cca isn't the best of wire. ofc 0gauge can be found on here in the forsale section rather cheap. ive seen 40-50ft go for around 50-100. 40-50ft would be plenty to redo the big 3 and a good chance you could still run 0 gauge front to back and do your rear grounds in 0 gauge. 0gauge ofc is good for 250-300amps, fusing would need to be what the manufacture rates the wire at. no one can tell you the increase you will get with that but it should be a decent improvement. for fusing you fuse for the wire really. that way if the power wire some how grounds out the fuse pops instead of metling the wire down or creating a fire, sometimes both. that cca wire I would say is no more then 100amp rated. so really it will be having a hard time holding up to the 140amp alt you have. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Problematic Posted February 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2014 Any way you can put your rear battery up front and live without a rear battery for a bit? You are recommending this right? Because if its better for my battery I can definitely try it out. Just not sure if it has enough cca for the winter right now. Will I maintain a more constant voltage by using both batts or does the starter batt drain the agm because it won't charge as fast? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaskanzx5 Posted February 16, 2014 Report Share Posted February 16, 2014 having to different types of batteries can make the other one wear down faster. take the stock front battery out and put the agm battery up there start up the car and if it starts good (make sure the car is completely cooled off like car siting for 2hrs or more) then it will be fine. then turn up you stereo to put a load on it and see what voltage is dropping to with just that one battery. ive seen people gain by getting rid of non agm batts and just sticking with the agms they had. not saying you will see a gain in voltage but its worth the 5-10min of work to try it imo. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Problematic Posted February 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2014 Definitely gonna give it a try and also upgrade wiring to copper, maybe mess around with grounds and see what happens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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