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One Subwoofer Not Responding to Lows.


Exscathe

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:nothingtoadd:

but on the real though

:threadsucks:

2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD)

12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option

2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67

3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 

2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet)

1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4

4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps  (rear fill only)

1 ~ XS Power D4800

1 ~ XS Power D3400

8 ~ XS Power XP3000

160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power

320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener

Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS

Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/knfjdkghjudfhsgkjdhf/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=0

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But no one helping him derek. Lmao. Doesn't get much more helpful than someone showing up to put hands on it does it. It's because you're Canadian you're so nice and helpful

THERE IS NO BUILD LOG!

1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab

Alpine CDA-9887

4 Team Fi 15s

2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0

2 Ampere Audio 150.4

3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets

Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound!

8 XS Power d3400

6 XS power d680

Second Skin

Stinger

Tsunami Wiring

Sky High

A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger.

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ok guys, lets assume that he has pop tested it and both coils are fine. his subs are not blown and its wired correctly. what else could be the problem? i really believe he has tried most everything we've suggested. i know he didn't wire exactly as stated but that should still work fine. is there anything else were missing? i feel like were so caught up in trying to prove the other one wrong were missing something!

do you have another set of subs to try and make sure its not your amp? or another amp to try?

i know your sick of pulling your subs believe me i know, but what i would so if i were you is pull them both out of the box and free air test them on your Amp. try a Bunch of different wire configs till you get what you want. that way your not constantly pulling subs And can really hear And see what's going on. i know your pissed dude but were trying to help. even if we're not up to your standards were trying to help. nice box btw i really like that

jvc deck

stinger 1800 front

hc 2000 kinetic rear

2 runs of 1/0g

big 3/4

ct 60.4

2 ct 1400.1

ct EXO 15 d1

lots of deadner

type r comps front stage

6 kicker tweets rear stage

lots of great stuff

coming soon

ho alt

more bats

ct comps for front stage

more deadner

sweet amp rack

lots of L.E.D lights

new deck (thinking 80 prs, or flip out)

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In the box you have posted pics of, how can you tell that one is not playing as good as the other? Just cone excursion? Do they have the same amount of playing time? If one sub is new or has been reconed, it might not move as much until it has playing time on it.

If you are comparing the one in the car to the one in your house, that is a wasted comparison. . .

And just an off topic FYI - you have dual 1 ohm subs. 0.7 is the DC resistance. Not the same thing as nominal impedance.

Current system:

1997 Blazer - (4) Customer Fi NEO subs with (8) American Bass Elite 2800.1s

Previous systems:

2000 Suburban - (4) BTL 15's and (4) IA 40.1's = 157.7 dB at 37 Hz.

1992 Astro Van - (6) BTL 15's and (6) IA 40.1's = 159.7 dB at 43 Hz.

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Wired to 1 ohm, problem was still there, it does highs but when it comes to lows it just moves a bit less than the other driver, I had one driver in a single 15 box playing longer than I had the other driver playing, all wiring was fine, thanks for all the wiring diagrams and tutorials on wiring IT WAS NOT THE PROBLEM. It is that one driver is worked in a bit more than the other one so one driver moves a bit mroe than the other one does, as I played more and more, it seemed to get better and better, just for curiosity I wired the driver in question reverse polarity to see how it played, and no it was not that one driver was reverse polarity, all the wiring was fine. So now you can stop calling me an idiot and take my word when I said I wired it right. Another reason why I am never posting on this forum again.

IMG-20140217-00303_zps3d022ae4.jpgIMG-20140217-00302_zps4e862be7.jpg

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