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in need of Second Skin guidance


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Its a dumb question really, but I dont like being uncertain.

Before I put together my install for the year, I need deadener BAD.

The trunk sounds like a tidal wave of metal above 145db..

Ive also noticed the door are rather thin.. you can hear the stock speakers in the rear doors loud as can be just listening to Espn or something, from well outside the car. Let alone the components up front..

So trunk and doors. Maybe the headliner. With spl in mind mostly.

What do I need? The foam matt stuff seems ok but wont it absorb spl? What about sludge? Of course cld, but how much??

Everyone says you dont need 100% coverage, but everyone hassss 100% coverage.

I deadened in my past cars with other stuff, but trunk lid area only.

This time I wanna deaden legit style. Going with some second skin. And im assuming 80 mil or gtfo.. or is 60 mil fine?

Above and beyond all else, I want a 150. And I believe the serious tornado of trunk carnage greatly impeads that goal. The trunk torsion bars are already snapped from spl..

Thanks

Setup:


2010 Hyundai Elantra


Factory Unit via 4 chan NVX LOC


Excessive Amperage "H/O" Alt


Xs D3400/ Xs XP3000


Big 3. 2 Runs of +, 2 Runs of -


DD M3b and 2 12" AQ HDC4s

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first off highly doubtful you will gain 5db from deadener and if thats your main goal you will need to apply some and test apply more and test ect around the entire car and hope for the best

If you are just going to deaden so it sounds better and hopefully gains db then i would look at 25-50% of damplifier or damp pro all around the car

J. Jsig_253411.jpgMy CardomainFINISHED COBALT SS/SC DUAL ALTERNATOR PICS icon_nuts.gif

theres no such thing as too expensive when it comes to upgrades like that, because imo if you are gonna spend to upgrade then do it correctly rather then be a cheap ass ricer
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Oh lol god no. Lmao I wish. What I was saying that I cant imagine getting to a 50 with such a serious problem imo.

But I have no idea how many sq ft is adequate. Or what the foam or sludge would do. Ive read about it.. but i dont want to put foam padding everywhere either as it would absorb some splage..

I have a good general knowledge of deadening. Im looking for the fecoupe knowledge of deadening if that makes sense.

Setup:


2010 Hyundai Elantra


Factory Unit via 4 chan NVX LOC


Excessive Amperage "H/O" Alt


Xs D3400/ Xs XP3000


Big 3. 2 Runs of +, 2 Runs of -


DD M3b and 2 12" AQ HDC4s

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25-50% is a good rule of thumb for most people to cost effectively cut rattles that you hear on the inside and flex over all.

That being said I plan to have over a grand in second skin in my next car. 240sq feet plus all the liners I can fit? I think so. Because I want my 150db future trunk to sound like thunder and almost impossible to find a rattle inside or out. Successful? I'll let everyone know :)

Post pics of said deadener install bro.

My old YouTube channel : http://www.youtube.com/user/SwordLords1234?feature=mhee

My old build log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/161872-96-accord-b2-sundown-sky-high-dc-power-re-re-build-for-heatwave/page-37

My New Build - http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/207041-2016-mazda-6-sql-build/

2016 Mazda 6 Touring

JL Fix 86 - OEM signal correction

B2 prototype DSP 6to8

B2 Ref63 - 3 way active set

2 B2 Class H quattro's

1 B2 Zero.5R @.5

2 B2 HNv3 12 d2

B2 SLIP40 - Lithium in the trunk

Northstar Group 35 under the hood

100ft 2/0 welding cable

30ft 4ga welding cable

20ft 8ga welding cable

All stinger OFC speaker wire

Soundrive custom RCA's

Tons of attention to detail.... Can it be perfect?

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Though i'm far to tired to really grasp what any of you are saying, I'd be happy to say that 60 mil should work just fine, use 80 mil if you can.

2001 Civic LX Sedan
Pioneer DEH-7500HD

Big 3 in 1/0 Knu CCA
Rockford P500-4
RF Punch P165-S in doors
RF Punch P165 in rear deck
Front doors deadened with Damplifier

Next
SQ's new HDS208 8" in a T-line whenever it FINALLY COMES OUT I CAN FINALLY AFFORD IT
:dammit:

Bend over and I'll show ya.

how is it 2 days work? half a day at most, i may be an idiot, but im not an idiot.

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All my other cars are scrapped or sold or w.e

Theres none in this car yet.

Ive had peal n seal. Was ok.

Fatmat ok I guess

American bass stuff was actually good.

Maybe one other idk.

But ive looked into this for awhile ya know

Alphadamp no website .. meh.

The other A brand idk.. also meh

Raamat seems jenky idk.

I just decided like f it get the good stuff. Im hoping its like walking out into the light of salvation, that n8 is right on, second skin is the bees knees.

But now, what second skin products do I buy? How much?? I wanna spend 2-300.

Edit: And I just wanna know like 100% im getting good value. I value my money, and I dont really like risking it or just wasting it too much. 100 bux ok w.e

300 bucks, I wanna know exactly what im getting and what to expect exactly what to do with it to get the best results possible for my money.

When I build a pc, I know exactly what my game plan is and how far I will be able to overclock given the setup timings and all. Within 1 hour of boot up inshould be into fine tuning and voltage increments the nitty gritty.

Edited by P4killer_

Setup:


2010 Hyundai Elantra


Factory Unit via 4 chan NVX LOC


Excessive Amperage "H/O" Alt


Xs D3400/ Xs XP3000


Big 3. 2 Runs of +, 2 Runs of -


DD M3b and 2 12" AQ HDC4s

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the damp pro damp and sludge all effectively do the same thing... reducing vibrations mainly meant for metal. the foam (overkill, overkill pro) is meant to reduce airborne noise. how effective they are at doing so is debatable but when used with the luxury liner (or buying the lux liner pro) That product is great at blocking exterior noise from entering the cabin. With lux liner pro or the overkill attached to the lux liner you need as much coverage as possible. putting a small square in the middle of a door does nothing at blocking noise.

as far as amount you need that all depends on how much you are applying. no one can really decide how much you need because the largest factor are the vehicle itself (not necessarily size either) and how good of an install you do. With vibration dampeners the effectiveness is all exponential. You can do wonders with a very small amount correctly placed. You also have to remember your system is creating a shit ton of pressure in the cab. silencing that pressure is possible but making it dissapear completely is no easy task. On my old car i went balls to the wall crazy and with the system full tilt 147db i could shut the door and barely hear music playing much less any bass from 20ft away. mind you i spent at least 3500 on second skin alone

J. Jsig_253411.jpgMy CardomainFINISHED COBALT SS/SC DUAL ALTERNATOR PICS icon_nuts.gif

theres no such thing as too expensive when it comes to upgrades like that, because imo if you are gonna spend to upgrade then do it correctly rather then be a cheap ass ricer
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I must have read that showdown site like 5 times. Ill update after ive got it sorted.

Setup:


2010 Hyundai Elantra


Factory Unit via 4 chan NVX LOC


Excessive Amperage "H/O" Alt


Xs D3400/ Xs XP3000


Big 3. 2 Runs of +, 2 Runs of -


DD M3b and 2 12" AQ HDC4s

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Share on other sites

if you have any more specific questions ill try my best to help. its sorta hard to explain sometimes

oh and i forgot to say the reason why you dont see people with less then 100% coverage is because the only people taking pictures of sound dampening generally have big sub builds and the bigger the system the more dampening "wanted" (not needed)

J. Jsig_253411.jpgMy CardomainFINISHED COBALT SS/SC DUAL ALTERNATOR PICS icon_nuts.gif

theres no such thing as too expensive when it comes to upgrades like that, because imo if you are gonna spend to upgrade then do it correctly rather then be a cheap ass ricer
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