Chrome or shiny fiberglass box?

[ModernDayHero07]

I am doing a pair of fiberglass boxes and I want the finish to be chrome-like or something shiny. Something like this picture. How do I do this? I've made fiberglass boxes before with finishes of trunk liner and carpet and fleece, but I have no idea how to do something like this.

[Berto]

A LOT of time and attention to detail.

I heard you pretty much ready it like a car. Primer, sand, primer, sand, primer, wet sand, paint.

Or something like that. There was a thread on how to do it on here, search for it.

[Aj11]

^exactly primer sand sand sand sand then sand... you want it glass smooth then a nice good paint

[ParDeus]

It's WAY harder then people seem to think. Don't use a shit filler like bondo, use a higher-end brand. Also, I like to finish fill with a pinhole sealer mixed real soupy.

Spraying lacquer will give the richest look imo, but if you haven't done this a lot, single stage can look decent if you take your time.

Make sure to get a flexible block, and block, block, and block again. Spray a darker primer so you can see areas that need help while it is wet. I prefer a high-solids epoxy primer.

Having a nice gun really makes a difference as well.

[CleanSierra]

I agree, catalyzed primer is the way to go. It's hard as Shit to sand, but it won't shrink and if you've got your lines right, it's a great choice.

For body filler, I use the Evercoat products. They make Rage Gold and Rage Xtreme. I use the Lite-Weight stuff since I get it cheap and it sands nicely. For a nicer body filler, get a company's "gold" line. It's usually thinner and easier sanding, but on the downside, it doesn't build up as much. Knock body filler down in the green stage to save HOURS if sanding later. This will allow you to knock down the high spots quickly and then let it set up a few minutes and go at it.

It's a he'll if an involved process, air tools make the work much quicker, but not EASY. It takes a feel and an eye. I don't ever have to use high build primer because I don't over mix my filler introducing air, plus what pin holes I get, I fill with glazing putty.

It's worth it in the end, but be prepared to spend countless hours and have hands that hurt. Add well as back, knees,etc.

[ModernDayHero07]

"Knock body filler down in the green stage to save HOURS if sanding later. This will allow you to knock down the high spots quickly and then let it set up a few minutes and go at it."
What do you mean when you say "knock body filler down" and also what is "the green stage"?

[Tecomah]

"Knock body filler down in the green stage to save HOURS if sanding later. This will allow you to knock down the high spots quickly and then let it set up a few minutes and go at it."

What do you mean when you say "knock body filler down" and also what is "the green stage"?

you want to sand down the high spots of the filler and get it smooth before it sets all the way. Green stage is when it has set for like 15 to 20 minutes before it has hardened all the way.

[Tecomah]

It will make your life a hell of a lot easier. It sets solid if you don't

[ModernDayHero07]

And also, "single stage can look decent if you take your time. Make sure to get a flexible block, and block, block, and block again."
What do you mean by "single stage"? And what do you mean by "flexible block"?

[CleanSierra]

Have you googled ANY of the things we are giving you? 3M makes a flexible foam block for sanding.

Green stage is about 10-20 minutes after filler is setting up. This varies depending on how much catalyst(hardener)you added.

Single stage paint is one stage, as simply as the name suggests. Two stage would include a base of color and then the second stage is a clearcoat.