ModernDayHero07 Posted March 15, 2014 Report Share Posted March 15, 2014 I am doing a pair of fiberglass boxes and I want the finish to be chrome-like or something shiny. Something like this picture. How do I do this? I've made fiberglass boxes before with finishes of trunk liner and carpet and fleece, but I have no idea how to do something like this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Berto Posted March 15, 2014 Report Share Posted March 15, 2014 A LOT of time and attention to detail. I heard you pretty much ready it like a car. Primer, sand, primer, sand, primer, wet sand, paint. Or something like that. There was a thread on how to do it on here, search for it. TEAM FLEX ISSUES Car: 1985 Oldsmobile Delta 88 Royal 24" Rims HU: 7" Carputer, Planet Audio EQ, iPhone. Coax: T3 Audio 4" speakers Subs: 2x 18" T3 Audio TSNS (walled) Sub Amp: DC 9k SOON TO COME T3 Audio 6x9s MB Quarts 6.5" comp set MAYBE ADDED 2nd DC 9k Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aj11 Posted March 15, 2014 Report Share Posted March 15, 2014 ^exactly primer sand sand sand sand then sand... you want it glass smooth then a nice good paint jvc deck stinger 1800 front hc 2000 kinetic rear 2 runs of 1/0g big 3/4 ct 60.4 2 ct 1400.1 ct EXO 15 d1 lots of deadner type r comps front stage 6 kicker tweets rear stage lots of great stuff coming soon ho alt more bats ct comps for front stage more deadner sweet amp rack lots of L.E.D lights new deck (thinking 80 prs, or flip out) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ParDeus Posted March 16, 2014 Report Share Posted March 16, 2014 It's WAY harder then people seem to think. Don't use a shit filler like bondo, use a higher-end brand. Also, I like to finish fill with a pinhole sealer mixed real soupy. Spraying lacquer will give the richest look imo, but if you haven't done this a lot, single stage can look decent if you take your time. Make sure to get a flexible block, and block, block, and block again. Spray a darker primer so you can see areas that need help while it is wet. I prefer a high-solids epoxy primer. Having a nice gun really makes a difference as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleanSierra Posted March 16, 2014 Report Share Posted March 16, 2014 I agree, catalyzed primer is the way to go. It's hard as Shit to sand, but it won't shrink and if you've got your lines right, it's a great choice. For body filler, I use the Evercoat products. They make Rage Gold and Rage Xtreme. I use the Lite-Weight stuff since I get it cheap and it sands nicely. For a nicer body filler, get a company's "gold" line. It's usually thinner and easier sanding, but on the downside, it doesn't build up as much. Knock body filler down in the green stage to save HOURS if sanding later. This will allow you to knock down the high spots quickly and then let it set up a few minutes and go at it. It's a he'll if an involved process, air tools make the work much quicker, but not EASY. It takes a feel and an eye. I don't ever have to use high build primer because I don't over mix my filler introducing air, plus what pin holes I get, I fill with glazing putty. It's worth it in the end, but be prepared to spend countless hours and have hands that hurt. Add well as back, knees,etc. Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ModernDayHero07 Posted March 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 "Knock body filler down in the green stage to save HOURS if sanding later. This will allow you to knock down the high spots quickly and then let it set up a few minutes and go at it."What do you mean when you say "knock body filler down" and also what is "the green stage"? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tecomah Posted March 19, 2014 Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 "Knock body filler down in the green stage to save HOURS if sanding later. This will allow you to knock down the high spots quickly and then let it set up a few minutes and go at it." What do you mean when you say "knock body filler down" and also what is "the green stage"? you want to sand down the high spots of the filler and get it smooth before it sets all the way. Green stage is when it has set for like 15 to 20 minutes before it has hardened all the way. 750??! Yeah, fuck that. Fuck this website, fuck SMD, fuck Steve, fuck all of his butt buddy mods, and their couches.^ DON'T BE A DICK LIKE THIS GUY Team Subsonic Lows Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tecomah Posted March 19, 2014 Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 It will make your life a hell of a lot easier. It sets solid if you don't 750??! Yeah, fuck that. Fuck this website, fuck SMD, fuck Steve, fuck all of his butt buddy mods, and their couches.^ DON'T BE A DICK LIKE THIS GUY Team Subsonic Lows Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ModernDayHero07 Posted March 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 And also, "single stage can look decent if you take your time. Make sure to get a flexible block, and block, block, and block again."What do you mean by "single stage"? And what do you mean by "flexible block"? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleanSierra Posted March 19, 2014 Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 Have you googled ANY of the things we are giving you? 3M makes a flexible foam block for sanding. Green stage is about 10-20 minutes after filler is setting up. This varies depending on how much catalyst(hardener)you added. Single stage paint is one stage, as simply as the name suggests. Two stage would include a base of color and then the second stage is a clearcoat. Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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