Eroc3k Posted March 22, 2014 Report Share Posted March 22, 2014 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dharris2488 Posted March 25, 2014 Report Share Posted March 25, 2014 the part you dont under stand is that you will never see 14.4v out of any alt that is computer controlled no matter how badass it is.. it can be 1 million amps and you will still see it drop to what the computer tells it to charge to. also once the batteries are topped off/fully charged the alt will not charge at a higher voltage.. you need to train your batteries to sit at a higher voltage so the alternator can keep charging at a higher voltage. When a battery is near fully charged the alternator will cease to put out sufficient voltage to charge the battery and the reading you will get from the battery probing method will simply be the voltage coming from the battery itself. In this case, you can simply leave your lights on with the car off for ten or fifteen minutes to drain your battery a little bit. i seen so many bad battery review because of things like this. i have batteries with bad reviews of them swelling in a few weeks yet i have ran mine for 2 years and no issues. they keep holding voltage and keep holding a good charge.. at the end you choose how you want to run your equipment.. just dont cry to manufactures because equipment fail when they get abused or tricked to doing something it shouldnt.. I have a 2013 Camry and just installed the 240a SSeries Mechman. I was wondering the same thing about the voltage issue. I assumed it had something to do with the cars computer, so I just said heck with it. Tired of fooling around with it for now. I did change the OEM belt from 50" to 49 3/4" Gates GreenLine. Tried my damndest to get the 49 1/2" belt on, but it just wasn't happening. My car idles better and my fuel economy is coming back up. I can also tell by the sound of my subs as well. The belt helped a ton! Now my question for you Miquel is this, I still am running my stock battery up front with no battery in the rear. I'm going to upgrade the battery up front to the largest I can fit under the hood. Should this one battery help my hold my voltage to my two rear amplifiers? Or do I need a second, rear battery hooked up in parallel to hold my voltage. Running right at 2000 RMS at the moment, but want to add more soon. You seem to know what your speaking about. Any advise? I know the alternator is doing what it supposed to be doing. Can't really help the computer issue... Advise? Quote 2013 Toyota Camry SE 240a MechMan HO Alternator 1/0 Welding Flex Cable Big 3 CT Sounds 4000.1D Kenwood XR400-4 Mid/High Amp SoundQubed Q4-120 Mid Amp Infinity Kappa 6.5 components Kappa 6x9's for rear deck fill (coming out) (4) 8" PRV 8MB450's Set of SoundQubed SuperTweets (2) DSS Ethos 12's D2's @32.5hz (building 4th order enclosure) (2) SQ HDC3 10's @ 33.5hz (current build, loving them) Pioneer AVH-X4600BT 100 sq/ft Stinger RoadKill Sound Deadner 120 sq/ft QMat Sound Deadener (4) Juice Box Black Cherries Lots and Lots of feet of SHCA wire, along with 50' of Welding 1/0 2 Runs of 1/0 Positive front to back ToolMaker Everywhere Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the808path Posted March 26, 2014 Report Share Posted March 26, 2014 the part you dont under stand is that you will never see 14.4v out of any alt that is computer controlled no matter how badass it is.. it can be 1 million amps and you will still see it drop to what the computer tells it to charge to. also once the batteries are topped off/fully charged the alt will not charge at a higher voltage.. you need to train your batteries to sit at a higher voltage so the alternator can keep charging at a higher voltage. When a battery is near fully charged the alternator will cease to put out sufficient voltage to charge the battery and the reading you will get from the battery probing method will simply be the voltage coming from the battery itself. In this case, you can simply leave your lights on with the car off for ten or fifteen minutes to drain your battery a little bit. i seen so many bad battery review because of things like this. i have batteries with bad reviews of them swelling in a few weeks yet i have ran mine for 2 years and no issues. they keep holding voltage and keep holding a good charge.. at the end you choose how you want to run your equipment.. just dont cry to manufactures because equipment fail when they get abused or tricked to doing something it shouldnt.. I can prove you wrong heres a vid for you good sir and tell me if im wrong. Oh and enjoy 1 Quote 2010 Pathfinder Sundown Audio - SAZ 4500- Zv.3 15"x 2 w/ Nightshade coils Sundown Audio - SAX 100.4d- Focal Utopias 165w2 (fronts), rockford t1652 (rears) DC Power Engineering - 270XP Knukonceptz and Rockford 1/0 wire through out XS Power D3100s x2 and a "god ol" Optima Yellow Top up front Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the808path Posted March 26, 2014 Report Share Posted March 26, 2014 Also How can u Say he is crying about a product if its not what he expected? You buy something expecting to do exactly what it was made for and in car audio what isn't abuse? Almost 90 percent of ppl who swap to h/o alts do more then what their equipment is rated at. Is that called abuse?. You should know that already. Seems that you think the OP is a lil inexperienced and has abused his equipment..I'm not bashing on any company in particular. I'm pretty sure they make an awesome and proven product, all I'm trying to include in this thread is my insight and what I expect as I'm in the market for an alt myself and I'm "vigorously" Searching for as much information I can get before I make my decision. As for the Op I apologize for Posting excessively in your thread as I am not a NOOB, but as I post more into response I am certainly taking a step back. I hope you get your problem Squared out and please keep us updated. 4 Quote 2010 Pathfinder Sundown Audio - SAZ 4500- Zv.3 15"x 2 w/ Nightshade coils Sundown Audio - SAX 100.4d- Focal Utopias 165w2 (fronts), rockford t1652 (rears) DC Power Engineering - 270XP Knukonceptz and Rockford 1/0 wire through out XS Power D3100s x2 and a "god ol" Optima Yellow Top up front Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hankfan79 Posted March 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2014 Yeah, I hate when people just assume you have no idea about what your doing. The issue was 2 part. 1. I realize I can't get 14.4 because of the car. 2. BUT! When the voltage is pulled down, the alternator should bring it back to it's regular voltage. That is it's purpose..right? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted March 27, 2014 Report Share Posted March 27, 2014 The pcm does funny thing. The hard part is determining what your car thinks is normal at that moment. That could be a large factor in why you don't see anything to what should be normal Quote THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WastedTalent Posted March 28, 2014 Report Share Posted March 28, 2014 The pcm does funny thing. The hard part is determining what your car thinks is normal at that moment. That could be a large factor in why you don't see anything to what should be normal What I'm dealing with. Ever seen 11.9 on a 320 amp alt, 3k watts max, with 2 d3400's in back? Come here, lemme show ya. Lol. I said eff it, whatever. I'll deal with it once I get the job stuff figured out. 1 Quote Sheena = pedobear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karkov Posted March 28, 2014 Report Share Posted March 28, 2014 It should never go that low, lol, that's below your factory battery resting voltage. Possibly got some wiring incorrect for what the PCM wants to see. Best to talk to Mechman or DC Power Kyle IMO> Wait, with stereo running it drops down to 11.9 or not? vehicle on? What scenario? Quote 2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD) 12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option 2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67 3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet) 1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4 4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps (rear fill only) 1 ~ XS Power D4800 1 ~ XS Power D3400 8 ~ XS Power XP3000 160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power 320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/knfjdkghjudfhsgkjdhf/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WastedTalent Posted March 29, 2014 Report Share Posted March 29, 2014 Stereo running. Full tilt. Talked to mech and "That vehicle charges low"... Hmm, I see 13.7 normally (idle, no stereo) and that's fine but... 11.9? With full tilt stereo? That's why I say eff it, I'll deal with it later when my job situation is better. Sorta in the unknown land right now. Quote Sheena = pedobear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hankfan79 Posted March 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2014 Honestly..I get better idle charge from my factory alternator. It's the weirdest shit I've ever seen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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