tacomaguy1 Posted March 20, 2014 Report Posted March 20, 2014 lol at the video.....of course it's going to sound like crap with the baffle not even connected get a new box either build it or have someone do it Team Flex Issues
mnrookie Posted March 20, 2014 Report Posted March 20, 2014 Also, I think your sub placement on the baffle is wrong.
Joe X Posted March 20, 2014 Report Posted March 20, 2014 It looks like if you didn't even use wood glue to build that. You need to take the box apart, sand the parts and rejoin them.
mnrookie Posted March 20, 2014 Report Posted March 20, 2014 After you do as Joe X said. I would put the sub here if possible.
whatusay45 Posted March 20, 2014 Author Report Posted March 20, 2014 Why would I place the sub so close to the port?
BassDoctor Posted March 20, 2014 Report Posted March 20, 2014 After you do as Joe X said. I would put the sub here if possible. Why do you suggest this? The reading I've been doing suggests the opposite. 04 Honda Accord LX Sedan Kenwood Excelon X998 XS Power D3400 XS Power D1200 Singer 275A alternator with factory bypass 64 sqft SecondSkin Damplifier Build to be decided
cjvue Posted March 20, 2014 Report Posted March 20, 2014 In most application, having the subs close to port opening (original design) will cause sub to unload sooner. And I would take that sub out of that box as soon as possible before you break something. My Build Log- T E A M S U N D O W N A U D I O - 2013 DbDrag WF SS1-2 - 5th Place 154.6db 2013 MECA Mod3 CA State Final Champ 153.4db Powered by: Sundown Audio
CleanSierra Posted March 20, 2014 Report Posted March 20, 2014 Where are you located? I agree with CJVUE, please don't play the sub in that box AT ALL right now. Get it fixed or get another box. Question: Why do you need fiberglass work on the box done? Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you.
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