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New Components & Amp in, Nasty humming noise


KickerKid58

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Ok I did some more tests/tinkering with no progress....

I got a shisty idea and went to Best Buy. Bought a brand new similar model Pioneer double din that had the same harness and plugged 'er in. No difference. 15 day return policy hehe. At least that drops the probability that the problem is the head unit.

Also figured I'd pick the installer's brain since I was there. (I know I'm getting desperate here) Only thing he could think of was replacing the ground in back.

Sooo I also swapped my - run from front to back batt with a new ground to the seatbelt bolt strait into the chassis. Took time to make sure all connections were clean and ground through paint down to metal. Still nothing.

I might just disconnect everything tomorrow and see if I can piece everything together from nothing and see if I can get a clean signal.

06 Jeep Grand Cherokee

2 DC Level4 12"

Soundstream TA1.3000d

4 RF Punch 6.5" Components

2 RF Punch 3.5" 2-ways

RF Prime 400.4D

XS Power XP950 +&-run of XScorpion 1/0 OFC My Civic Build

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Good luck man don't give up I knew it drove me crazy but this question gets asked a lot and I am sure sharing your solution if you ever find one will help others.

2010 Mazda 3s 2.5L

Pioneer DEH-X9600BHS

Knu OFC 1/0 

SS Platinum AGM / XS Power XP750

Alpine PDX F-4 / Morel Maximo 5 + Coax 5

IA 10.1 / SSA XCON 12 

 

 

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Ok I did some more tests/tinkering with no progress....

I got a shisty idea and went to Best Buy. Bought a brand new similar model Pioneer double din that had the same harness and plugged 'er in. No difference. 15 day return policy hehe. At least that drops the probability that the problem is the head unit.

Also figured I'd pick the installer's brain since I was there. (I know I'm getting desperate here) Only thing he could think of was replacing the ground in back.

Sooo I also swapped my - run from front to back batt with a new ground to the seatbelt bolt strait into the chassis. Took time to make sure all connections were clean and ground through paint down to metal. Still nothing.

I might just disconnect everything tomorrow and see if I can piece everything together from nothing and see if I can get a clean signal.

no ground is needed between the batteries they are better separately grounded to the frame or chassis of the car the seat belt bolt is crappy i suggest not to use it

skar sk2500.1
0 gauge power and ground kunukonceptz
alpine HU
vxi65 components on BA gt-275
new build log -> http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/150642-project-d-kon-deathcards-build-log/#entry2148821
2 x-15 sundowns

singer alt, odyssey bat, and maxwell ultra caps

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I did more or less. tried a brand new out of the box h.u. with no change. made sure everything was off before I plugged it in.

Deathcards, curious why you don't like the seatbelt bolt? It goes into a (roughly) 3"x5" hunk of frame underneath. I grounded down the body floor, both sides of the seatbelt bracket, lug, and bolt washer and wire brushed the threads. Plus that bolt is ridiculously tight.... pita without an impact.

06 Jeep Grand Cherokee

2 DC Level4 12"

Soundstream TA1.3000d

4 RF Punch 6.5" Components

2 RF Punch 3.5" 2-ways

RF Prime 400.4D

XS Power XP950 +&-run of XScorpion 1/0 OFC My Civic Build

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  • 4 months later...

Just thought I'd share, I finally decided to rip everything apart to find out what was wrong. Turned out it was my Stinger volt meter. I had the power and voltage measuring wire both tapped into the rear battery. Tapped the main power into the HU instead and worked fine!

06 Jeep Grand Cherokee

2 DC Level4 12"

Soundstream TA1.3000d

4 RF Punch 6.5" Components

2 RF Punch 3.5" 2-ways

RF Prime 400.4D

XS Power XP950 +&-run of XScorpion 1/0 OFC My Civic Build

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Share on other sites

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