jakmagic Posted April 13, 2014 Report Posted April 13, 2014 Hey, I was wondering some of your guys techniques for soldering small ga. wire? Like 14ga - 20ga. Example: once the wire is striped do you spread the individual strands out, then interlock the two wire ends together, and then twist the the wire so the individual strands tighten up? What do you guys tend to do? 97 Buick LeSabre with stock 140 amp alternator XS Power D3400 (under the hood) using pdb distro blocks Big 3 done with 2/0 ga welding cable Alpine CDE-HD149BT head unit CT Sounds Meso 6.5" components CT Sounds 60.4 CT Sounds 1400.1 Fi Q 12 D2 with cooling in 2.5 net tuned @32 hz (box built by Sound Mekanix Customs) Bunch of Sky High 1/0 ga & 4 ga cable (plus fuse holders) Connection BT2 & BT4 550 (Audison) RCA's Bunch of Mojo Mat
philrab Posted April 13, 2014 Report Posted April 13, 2014 Depends. If the wires may be under tension, I actually make the wires into hooks, and hook them together, then solder. If mechanical tension isn't much of a concern, I lay then together and twist, then solder. After soldering, heat shrink is preferable but I have gotten away with electrical tape for years before I knew better. 2015 Toyota Tacoma Build Thread 2007 Mazda 3; 5000K HID's, Kenwood Excelon KDC-X997, Infinity Reference 6.5 comps in front and coaxials in the rear doors, JL 320.4 four channel, Rab Designs built ported enclosure with an SA12, Kenwood monoblock, Redline Leater shift boot/e-brake boot/center console cover, JBR short shifter/shifter bushings/rear motor mount. Build Thread 1996 Mazda Miata: Kenwood Excelon HU, Alpine speaker in the doors, Clearwater (miata specific) headrest speakers. 1994 Mazda Protege: Kenwood Excelon HU, Infinity Reference 2 ways all around, 2x RF Punch 10's in ported boxes.
alaskanzx5 Posted April 13, 2014 Report Posted April 13, 2014 I would spread the strands out twist them together with a small piece of solder twisted in with them. Then add more solder if needed. Finished off with heat shrink. I've also just twisted them together solder and heat shrink with no issue. When I first started doing it they came out strong but ugly. Fairly good at it now. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.
jakmagic Posted April 18, 2014 Author Report Posted April 18, 2014 Thanks for the replies guys. 97 Buick LeSabre with stock 140 amp alternator XS Power D3400 (under the hood) using pdb distro blocks Big 3 done with 2/0 ga welding cable Alpine CDE-HD149BT head unit CT Sounds Meso 6.5" components CT Sounds 60.4 CT Sounds 1400.1 Fi Q 12 D2 with cooling in 2.5 net tuned @32 hz (box built by Sound Mekanix Customs) Bunch of Sky High 1/0 ga & 4 ga cable (plus fuse holders) Connection BT2 & BT4 550 (Audison) RCA's Bunch of Mojo Mat
SnowDrifter Posted April 18, 2014 Report Posted April 18, 2014 Twist and solder. No need to interlace strands as they will all be bonded together with solder anyway. Use rosin core, make sure you get good penetration. Try to avoid any solder wicking beyond your connection as this will make the wire brittle ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444
csshakka Posted April 19, 2014 Report Posted April 19, 2014 Strip a bit of insulation off both ends you want to solder. Then I like to make an X shape with the two stripped ends, and then like posts above said, twist them together. A good twist makes them pretty much stick together without solder. Heat up the wires with soldering iron first, then feed the solder in. Don't forget to slide your heatshrink on before soldering the wires.
01 S-10 Posted April 19, 2014 Report Posted April 19, 2014 I do mine exactly like csshakka does, x pattern, twist, solder, then heat shrink. Been doing it for years with no failed connections. TDH FTW !!!
AMI CUSTOMS Posted April 20, 2014 Report Posted April 20, 2014 I use crimp caps, been using them for years and not a failed connection and 1000 times faster. TEAM SOUNDQUBED -- TEAM SOUTH TEAM S.O.B. - Founder & Captain 3x Streetbeat World Record Holder 2017 MWSPL 1st place Mayhem & 4th Xtreme 4 2016 MWSPL 1st place Mayhem/2nd Adv 4/2nd Xtreme 4 2015 MWSPL 2nd place Mayhem & 4th Xtreme 4 2014 USACI 2nd place Streetbeat 5 - 162.6 db 2014 MWSPL 2nd place Xtreme 4 - 144.9 db 2013 USACI 1st place Streetbeat 4 - 161.9 db 2013 USACI 1st place Street Q+ - 162.8 db 2013 MWSPL 3rd Kaos2 & 4th Xtreme 4 2011 USACI 2nd place MOD 1001-2k - 160.0 db 2011 MWSPL 4th place: Adv3 - 157.8 db, Kaos2 - 150s db, Xtreme4 - 140s db 2010 ARSPL 1st place 501-750 - 160.3 db Arkansas loudest Best score to date 164.4 db - Termlab Outlaw Streetbeat 4 - 161.9 db Streetbeat 5 - 162.6 db MWSPL on Dash Legal door open (Music) - 162.5 db Sealed on dash Legal (Music) - 161.1 db - Termlab THE BLACK NASTY CURRENT BUILD & FAB The Black Nasty (6) 15 Rebuild Log 2012 (4) 15 Walled Sierra Build Log Evo X build log Facebook page The Black Nasty
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