greezychef Posted April 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2014 the car has a digital voltmeter in the programmable dash that i keep an eye on. car held 14v like a champ until it started to get warmer here gains were set by my installer using a scope i do have a bass knob in cabin that i use to fade in or out the amount of bass i feel like hearing. never turn it up all the way, but it dont have a clip indicator either. think i should look into doing the big 3 and upgrading my stock battery first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaskanzx5 Posted April 27, 2014 Report Share Posted April 27, 2014 Good on the gains. As for the knob it is a bass boost. It a remote for the punch eq on the amp. imo go back to the installer and see if he will check on the scope how far up you can go on the knob before the scope shows clipping. Mark it with a marker or pen so you know the limits with the knob. did the installer check head unit clipping? its a real good idea to do the big 3 and upgraded stock battery. big 3 should be done something like + alt to battery alt case to frame or battery battery to frame after big 3 and upgraded battery check voltage at the amps with a dmm. If its above 13v on a hot day I would be happy. If not consider a bigger alt. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greezychef Posted April 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2014 yes he set gain with bass knob all the way up. stock head unit. used an audio control lc7 as a line out converter. going from trunk battery location all the way to the alt is gonna be a bitch huh? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockFord_Expedition Posted April 27, 2014 Report Share Posted April 27, 2014 Ah, you'll get used to it. Old School/New School RF Build March 2015 SOTM Winner How to crimp large wire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaskanzx5 Posted April 27, 2014 Report Share Posted April 27, 2014 Yeah it will, worth it though trust me. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greezychef Posted April 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2014 Yeah it will, worth it though trust me. yeah, im happy with performance from the system as is but its time to fine tune it. my plan of action is electrical first, new subs and box, then really working on my rear deck lid that rattles and squeaks like a bitch in the 45-55 hz ranges. more louder lows is also a goal, current setup will play the lows beautifully but not loudly below 34hz. it really hurts i think that i dont have a fold down seat or a pass through of any kind. although i did remove the sub from the rear dash so air/sound is able to move into the cabin through a nice sized hole there. it really sounds pretty nice in my opinion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soccerballzs Posted April 27, 2014 Report Share Posted April 27, 2014 I run ground to engine block here also. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/garage/vehicle/2438-jeep-commander/I Pioneer P99RSAmpere 38002-Ampere 125/44-6.5 inch Hertz HSK XL Mids4-8 inch JL Audio ZR Midwoofer 2-5.25 Satori Mids2-Morel Tweeters, 2 Hertz Milles 3 inch on A pillars2-Hertz Silk tweeters DC Audio Level 5/12 Skyhigh Wire Mechman 320 XS Power D3100MO Funniest Thread of the Year 2013: http://www.stevemead...dy-being-a-pos/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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