Grant Whalen Posted April 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2014 Yes the grounds... All of them and replaced all ... All down to bare metal . The positive I kept and haut added on top of Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockFord_Expedition Posted April 29, 2014 Report Share Posted April 29, 2014 COULD be at least a contributing factor. Specifically, did you literally get rid of and replace the starter ground? How does the vehicle start as compared to before? Old School/New School RF Build March 2015 SOTM Winner How to crimp large wire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grant Whalen Posted April 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2014 Tbh all I did was the battery to chassis and battery to motor then motor to chassis and no other grounds and the car starts up better and quicker actually no hesitation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigManAC Posted April 29, 2014 Report Share Posted April 29, 2014 ^ that's what I was lookin into but I don't know if it would be a huge deal oh and the belt isn't an issue it's brand new mitsubishi green belt on a honda lol anyways if there was a way in the computer to do it?Don't fuck around with the idle. Its ECU controlled and most people think that by turning the throttle stop screw they can turn up the idle...this doesn't work. If you do that you engine will probably have issues and you have to put it on a flow bench to get it back to normalFirst hand experience. Well now I know, thanks for the insight. 2001 Saturn L200-Sony MEX-BT4100PFRONT STAGE:- (4) Crescendo PWX 6- Cadence XA250.2SUB STAGE:-Fi Audio BL 15 (Sealed Off)-Crescendo BC2kELECTRICAL:- Singer 240A alt - XS Power D3400- SkyHigh OFC power/speaker wire- Big 3 with SkyHigh 0gaugeBuild Log: Click HereScores: 146.5db @ 29hz Outlaw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockFord_Expedition Posted April 29, 2014 Report Share Posted April 29, 2014 Tbh all I did was the battery to chassis and battery to motor then motor to chassis and no other grounds and the car starts up better and quicker actually no hesitation What about alt case to chassis? Old School/New School RF Build March 2015 SOTM Winner How to crimp large wire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockFord_Expedition Posted April 29, 2014 Report Share Posted April 29, 2014 Big 3: Alt pos to bat pos Alt case to frame Bat neg to frame Bat to engine really isn't doing you any good. Old School/New School RF Build March 2015 SOTM Winner How to crimp large wire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan Christensen Posted April 29, 2014 Report Share Posted April 29, 2014 the 320amp I got in the magnum, if you burp at idle it kills the engine. Cause the PCM no longer controls the alternator. Just rev it up a little when demoing or burping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grant Whalen Posted April 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2014 We'll this is gunna sound hella noobish but where the hell would I go from the alt car to frame like I can't find a place on the alt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tacomaguy1 Posted April 29, 2014 Report Share Posted April 29, 2014 The alt mounting bolt Team Flex Issues Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
never knows best Posted April 29, 2014 Report Share Posted April 29, 2014 have you cleaned your carburetor lately??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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