Nightshade Posted May 17, 2014 Report Share Posted May 17, 2014 Your voltage will still drop but not nearly as fast as it would without the extra battery capacity, just throw a charger on the battery bank every couple of days to top em off and keep them for around as long as possible. Yeah, I expect a little voltage drop, but I'm doing my best to eliminate it as much as possible. I have a question for you. It's about my grounds. I want to ground from the chassis to a distribution block, and also run a ground from the negative post of my rear battery bank to the distribution block. From there, I will take the 1/0 ground from from the block and insert that into my amp. Is that ok? To ground from chassis and negative battery post? Do I need to fuse anything on the ground run (specifically the wire coming from the negative battery post to the distribution block)? The way you are going to do the grounding is fine. The distribution block is just one connection so it doesn't matter where and what grounds you run into it because they will all be grounded to the frame in the long run. Your front battery is grounded to the frame by stock wire(or at least it should be) so its basically just connecting to the same ground point. 2013 VW Jetta GLI 2.0 Turbo 1 Sundown Audio SCV2000 1 Sundown Audio X15 V2 1 XS Power D3100 Audio Control LC6i Stock Deck 146.4 sealed on the dash at 37hz 2001 Focus ZX3: RETIRED Team Sundown Audio, Team XS Power, 2 time NSPL Car 3601-Up Champion, 2 time NSPL Car Hardcore ChampionHighest NSPL Scores to date:154.3db on the dash sealed at 46hz, 156.2db in the kick at 46hz155.2db unofficial on dash at 43hz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dharris2488 Posted May 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2014 Your voltage will still drop but not nearly as fast as it would without the extra battery capacity, just throw a charger on the battery bank every couple of days to top em off and keep them for around as long as possible. Yeah, I expect a little voltage drop, but I'm doing my best to eliminate it as much as possible. I have a question for you. It's about my grounds. I want to ground from the chassis to a distribution block, and also run a ground from the negative post of my rear battery bank to the distribution block. From there, I will take the 1/0 ground from from the block and insert that into my amp. Is that ok? To ground from chassis and negative battery post? Do I need to fuse anything on the ground run (specifically the wire coming from the negative battery post to the distribution block)? The way you are going to do the grounding is fine. The distribution block is just one connection so it doesn't matter where and what grounds you run into it because they will all be grounded to the frame in the long run. Your front battery is grounded to the frame by stock wire(or at least it should be) so its basically just connecting to the same ground point. Thanks for the input. So running a wire off the negative battery into the distro block will be fine? The other will be coming from the chassis, as already mentioned. I picked up 3 AutoZone Platinum AGM's for 135.00 a piece. Wired in parallel will give me 210 amp hours with tons of reserve (if that count's for anything). I figured for the price, I would give them a run and see how they hold up. I will report back this evening once I get everything wired. Geez!!!! I hate Houston in the summer time... I'm already sweating like a whore in church! Damn!!! Ready to get this project completed... 2013 Toyota Camry SE 240a MechMan HO Alternator 1/0 Welding Flex Cable Big 3 CT Sounds 4000.1D Kenwood XR400-4 Mid/High Amp SoundQubed Q4-120 Mid Amp Infinity Kappa 6.5 components Kappa 6x9's for rear deck fill (coming out) (4) 8" PRV 8MB450's Set of SoundQubed SuperTweets (2) DSS Ethos 12's D2's @32.5hz (building 4th order enclosure) (2) SQ HDC3 10's @ 33.5hz (current build, loving them) Pioneer AVH-X4600BT 100 sq/ft Stinger RoadKill Sound Deadner 120 sq/ft QMat Sound Deadener (4) Juice Box Black Cherries Lots and Lots of feet of SHCA wire, along with 50' of Welding 1/0 2 Runs of 1/0 Positive front to back ToolMaker Everywhere Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSkippyJ Posted May 17, 2014 Report Share Posted May 17, 2014 Your voltage will still drop but not nearly as fast as it would without the extra battery capacity, just throw a charger on the battery bank every couple of days to top em off and keep them for around as long as possible. Yeah, I expect a little voltage drop, but I'm doing my best to eliminate it as much as possible. I have a question for you. It's about my grounds. I want to ground from the chassis to a distribution block, and also run a ground from the negative post of my rear battery bank to the distribution block. From there, I will take the 1/0 ground from from the block and insert that into my amp. Is that ok? To ground from chassis and negative battery post? Do I need to fuse anything on the ground run (specifically the wire coming from the negative battery post to the distribution block)? The way you are going to do the grounding is fine. The distribution block is just one connection so it doesn't matter where and what grounds you run into it because they will all be grounded to the frame in the long run. Your front battery is grounded to the frame by stock wire(or at least it should be) so its basically just connecting to the same ground point. I would add a second wire from the block to the chassis, other wise you have all of your batteries and amps grounding through a single wire. No need to fuse ground wires either. F150: Stock 2019 Harley Road Glide: Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt Processor: DSR1 Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx Lid (Rear) 6x9s - TMS69 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dharris2488 Posted May 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2014 Your voltage will still drop but not nearly as fast as it would without the extra battery capacity, just throw a charger on the battery bank every couple of days to top em off and keep them for around as long as possible. Yeah, I expect a little voltage drop, but I'm doing my best to eliminate it as much as possible. I have a question for you. It's about my grounds. I want to ground from the chassis to a distribution block, and also run a ground from the negative post of my rear battery bank to the distribution block. From there, I will take the 1/0 ground from from the block and insert that into my amp. Is that ok? To ground from chassis and negative battery post? Do I need to fuse anything on the ground run (specifically the wire coming from the negative battery post to the distribution block)? The way you are going to do the grounding is fine. The distribution block is just one connection so it doesn't matter where and what grounds you run into it because they will all be grounded to the frame in the long run. Your front battery is grounded to the frame by stock wire(or at least it should be) so its basically just connecting to the same ground point. I would add a second wire from the block to the chassis, other wise you have all of your batteries and amps grounding through a single wire. No need to fuse ground wires either. Ok. Thanks. That was the answer I was looking for. Basically I will have my batteries wired pos to pos, neg to neg. Then I will have another run off the negative to the chassis. I will have another run on negative from the battery to my amplifier. This sound about right for optimal grounding situation? No fusing on the grounds... Thanks for you help by the way. Always helps to hear from someone else that I'm doing something properly.... 2013 Toyota Camry SE 240a MechMan HO Alternator 1/0 Welding Flex Cable Big 3 CT Sounds 4000.1D Kenwood XR400-4 Mid/High Amp SoundQubed Q4-120 Mid Amp Infinity Kappa 6.5 components Kappa 6x9's for rear deck fill (coming out) (4) 8" PRV 8MB450's Set of SoundQubed SuperTweets (2) DSS Ethos 12's D2's @32.5hz (building 4th order enclosure) (2) SQ HDC3 10's @ 33.5hz (current build, loving them) Pioneer AVH-X4600BT 100 sq/ft Stinger RoadKill Sound Deadner 120 sq/ft QMat Sound Deadener (4) Juice Box Black Cherries Lots and Lots of feet of SHCA wire, along with 50' of Welding 1/0 2 Runs of 1/0 Positive front to back ToolMaker Everywhere Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSkippyJ Posted May 17, 2014 Report Share Posted May 17, 2014 you can ground your amps to the batteries or to the chassis, either way is fine. Me personally, I would do 2 ground wires. A. One from amp and one from batteries too chassis or B. 2 grounds from your batteries to chassis and ground your amp to the batteries. F150: Stock 2019 Harley Road Glide: Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt Processor: DSR1 Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx Lid (Rear) 6x9s - TMS69 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dharris2488 Posted May 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2014 you can ground your amps to the batteries or to the chassis, either way is fine. Me personally, I would do 2 ground wires. A. One from amp and one from batteries too chassis or B. 2 grounds from your batteries to chassis and ground your amp to the batteries. MrSkippyJ, I think I chose option B. I have one wire going to the chassis behind my seat and one wire going to the amp itself. Both these wires are connected directly to only one of the negative terminals on the battery bank. I suppose this is correct? I just demo'd everything and the voltage is MUCH MUCH more stable, but it seems as though I lost about .4 volts somewhere in the mix. Instead of my resting voltage being up around 13.7-13.8, I am now around 13.3-13.48. Now, my voltage used to dip to the low 12's, but now I only saw the voltage drop to about 12.9 during idle. If I can figure out how to get the .3-.4 I lost back somehow, I will be satisfied. Taking a break right now to think this out. It has to be a grounding situation somewhere. I've never seen above 14 volts in my car. I guess Toyota has this thing regulated to around 13.8-13.9, and that's all I will ever see unfortunately. All my wire up front is 1/0 OFC, EXCEPT the Chassis to Engine Block (1/0 CCA). I have about 15ft of 1/0 OFC left over, so I'm going to change this wire out tonight and see what happens. Maybe the resistance is too much and causing the loss in voltage. Other than that, I am very happy with my results. I don't think I gained any DB's, but I did gain electrical security for the rest of my critical components in my vehicle (ECU, etc...) My SoundQubed Amp is much happier with me at the moment. I hope to figure out the problem and make her happier! I'm sure the HDS3's are loving me too! What a difference over P3's... I can't say enough about SoundQubed at the moment... Thanks again for all your advise! 2013 Toyota Camry SE 240a MechMan HO Alternator 1/0 Welding Flex Cable Big 3 CT Sounds 4000.1D Kenwood XR400-4 Mid/High Amp SoundQubed Q4-120 Mid Amp Infinity Kappa 6.5 components Kappa 6x9's for rear deck fill (coming out) (4) 8" PRV 8MB450's Set of SoundQubed SuperTweets (2) DSS Ethos 12's D2's @32.5hz (building 4th order enclosure) (2) SQ HDC3 10's @ 33.5hz (current build, loving them) Pioneer AVH-X4600BT 100 sq/ft Stinger RoadKill Sound Deadner 120 sq/ft QMat Sound Deadener (4) Juice Box Black Cherries Lots and Lots of feet of SHCA wire, along with 50' of Welding 1/0 2 Runs of 1/0 Positive front to back ToolMaker Everywhere Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dharris2488 Posted May 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2014 Thanks to everyone who has helped me out today. You guys are awesome... I would like to take my car up to our local car audio shop and say, "THIS IS HOW YOU DO IT, IDIOTS!" I had my original wiring/setup performed by them and I have ripped everything out except my remote wire! What a freaking joke these people are. I don't know if it's because of laziness, squeezing every last penny out of the customer, or lack of knowledge (Heck, probably all 3!!!), but these guys should know better than to hook up an 1800RMS watt amp, a 400RMS watt amp to stock battery, 4ga wire, stock alternator, and tell me that "everything is fine and good to go!". What B.S.... No wonder my first amp went up in smoke and fried the coils in my first setup. Anyway, sorry for venting. Just needed to get that off my chest. Word to all the NOOBS out there, and I'm one of them (although, I'm getting much better), is if you can install it yourself, do it. You will save money and DO THE JOB RIGHT THE FIRST TIME! 2013 Toyota Camry SE 240a MechMan HO Alternator 1/0 Welding Flex Cable Big 3 CT Sounds 4000.1D Kenwood XR400-4 Mid/High Amp SoundQubed Q4-120 Mid Amp Infinity Kappa 6.5 components Kappa 6x9's for rear deck fill (coming out) (4) 8" PRV 8MB450's Set of SoundQubed SuperTweets (2) DSS Ethos 12's D2's @32.5hz (building 4th order enclosure) (2) SQ HDC3 10's @ 33.5hz (current build, loving them) Pioneer AVH-X4600BT 100 sq/ft Stinger RoadKill Sound Deadner 120 sq/ft QMat Sound Deadener (4) Juice Box Black Cherries Lots and Lots of feet of SHCA wire, along with 50' of Welding 1/0 2 Runs of 1/0 Positive front to back ToolMaker Everywhere Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
la negra Posted May 18, 2014 Report Share Posted May 18, 2014 I just seen those batts at advanced auto a few days ago too. I mite have to pick up a few. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quiet Posted May 18, 2014 Report Share Posted May 18, 2014 I can't speak for it against other AGMs but It beats the shit out of the Interstate battery it replaced. Worth every penny. I did do the big 3, still running stock alt on a shitty 1k HiFonics amp. 2007 Pacifica Rebuild. Less quiet. Still not loud. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
la negra Posted May 18, 2014 Report Share Posted May 18, 2014 It will beat my 5 year old optima. Survivor of 3 cars and one accident ( has a small dent) lmao.It's still kicking lol. It's just time to let her go Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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