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1st Enclosure..Please Help


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Box doesn't look bad, one suggestion though, try to make the baffle piece on the outer part of the box. It adds quite a bit of strength to the baffle. Hope that makes sense...lol

I understand what you are saying, but how would it be any stronger than the way he did it? Its a butt joint either way.

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Notice Torres says physical port length is 19.5 inches

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Box doesn't look bad, one suggestion though, try to make the baffle piece on the outer part of the box. It adds quite a bit of strength to the baffle. Hope that makes sense...lol

I understand what you are saying, but how would it be any stronger than the way he did it? Its a butt joint either way.

For one the baffle would be 1.5" larger on both sides ( width and height), in his pic on the top and bottom of the speaker there is only about 1/4" or less of baffle where the way I mentioned there would be 1" on the top and bottom. Secondly, he will be screwing his sub into the top and bottom of the box instead of straight into the baffle. I may be completely wrong Triticum, you have much more knowledge than I do and way better skill!

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Notice Torres says physical port length is 19.5 inches

I did see this, but I also saw that the hz was at 33.14 so I thought a 26" port length would give me 33hz? I wish Torres would give the port baffle measurements in the cut list along with the rest of the enclosure.

I think my port boards were [email protected]"x11.5" and [email protected]"x11.5" glued and screw to form an "L"..........The total length ended up being right at 26" so I thought it was perfect? I just wanted to double check.

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It isn't the length of the wood that determines the tuning. It is the distance down the center of your port. For example if your port were 4" wide you would draw a line 2" away from either wall down the length of your port and measure that line.

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Port calculations are only an estimate at best. The only way to know for sure to test it and see where you are at. If you are off a couple Hz in either direction you are never going to know the difference anyway.

"Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it."
"Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."

Builds:

U7qkMTL.jpg  LgPgE9w.jpg  Od2G3u1.jpg  xMyLoO1.jpg  9pAlXUK.jpg

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Alright, I'll stop worrying about it. Subs and Amp will be here next week. I'll get to painting the box and leave it be. Thanks for the advice everyone!

2001 Dodge Intrepid R/T

2 American Bass XFL 12's

American Bass VFL 150.1

Exide Group 31 AGM

Big 3 1/0 Bullz Audio

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Yea my opinion leave it how it is ..you did a good job on bracing btw..a few pointers for next time..when you put on the wood glue ..spread it out with your fingers so it will be evenly spread on the mating surfaces and not drip so much ..also try to predrill out your holes for your screws it will prevent the mdf/wood from cracking/splitting..or you could just use a nailgun instead of screws

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Also if building for a trunk car the most effective design for two sub would be subs firing forward into cabin and port in the middle..either wag its your 1st box..im sure youll be happy with it but the more you build the better youll get

You need trunk space to get groceries and shit...bitches love groceries

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This is what I've got so far... Thanks for all of the advice guys!

A5F2C7CB-475F-42EA-8C14-7EDEF2A4BC48_zps

AD9F194B-F58E-47C1-A1A1-23BE28278E3E_zps

3752FFEE-F1C8-4B0E-924A-169090A9F7FA_zps

2001 Dodge Intrepid R/T

2 American Bass XFL 12's

American Bass VFL 150.1

Exide Group 31 AGM

Big 3 1/0 Bullz Audio

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