speakers in doors are considered infinite baffle?

[trumpet1]

This driver is saying

Sealed Volume0.33 ft.³

Sealed F368 Hz

Vented Volume0.95 ft.³

Vented F338 Hz

I would say that's fairly small. So i think best results for this driver would be to seal the door the best i can? I dont think any speaker really performs well in free air... Atleast for a bass response.

This driver looks like it is not made for use in a door. Most doors are well over 1 cu ft.

I wont be using the whole door. I am sealing off the back of the panel and then wrapping the front with my fleece and then fiberglassing and ect. Im guessing its gonna be .5 cu or less. Behind the panel itself is pretty much useless space, to much mounting brackets and ect. I plan to have it sealed between the door and the panel itself. The panel is basically my enclosure. Take the door out of the equation basically.

I hope that works well for you. I'm concerned that even with your fiberglass efforts the panel is going to want to flex and cause losses and noise. I have not worked with fiberglass, but I've seen various ways to brace surfaces. Sounds like a cool project.

[bcbrassard]

Sealing a door up with deadener and other materials is possible to get the best midbass response from speakers. I know your talking fiberglassing up pods for your 8's qhich IMO will work well but i am a firm believer in deaden and sealing doors for best speaker response and to sound deaden from road noise as well. I spent 60 hrs doing my doors and the before and after results where huge.

I dont think spending a bunch of $ on replacement speakers to reinstall in stock location without proper deadening is ever a good route to go. I know i have made middle of the road speakers sound great, and great speakers sound like shit with a poor install.

First attempt and sounded muddy so i did some research.

Second round...accoustic foam on the inside.

Then sheet metal over the openongs....

With deadener over the metal and some foam on panel to help with rattles. Sound improved like 50% IMO.

Made some kicker panels and upgraded to T3's in doors with a new amp pushing both sets. 500 watts to mids upfront and still would like to add some 8's but gets loud and clear right now.

I think fiberglassing the 6.5 so the T3 are in a better listen position and then some 8's in the map pocket would look killer!

Ranger budget build.... sound deadening.

Deadener on the inside with acoustic foam and sealed holes.

$1000 build with Pioneer App radio, 4 RF P1683 ran off a PBR300x4, R10 slim sub & box off a P300x1 and for a small truck it sounds amazingly goo and clear. 2nd set of speakers in rear pods behind seats and those got deadened as well. 85 watts per ch and 400 watts of sub all set with DD-1 = 1 happy brother! lol Had stock radio in it for 5 yrs, now he has a system!

[Marquisboys]

F.A.S.T. rings can also help with speaker sound quality. But yeah sealing and deadning doors is the way to go. i have Soundqubed PA speakers and before i did anything to my doors they didnt sound the best. When i did everything to my doors i kind of sat there with my mouth dropped and smiled. Clarity and everything was improved beyond what i thought it could be. Was listening to 8 ball immaculate perception like 33hz and up and could feel those lower notes in my seat just off little 6.5s. Take the time to do the doors right and u will be impressed with whatever speaker you put in the doors

[TRON]

The Install Bay sells foam speaker baffles which basically give you a sealed enclosure and are completely air and water tight.

[kirill007]

The Install Bay sells foam speaker baffles which basically give you a sealed enclosure and are completely air and water tight.

Horrible option, no car audio speaker is made to be in a TINY sealed enclosure.

Bcbrassard has the proper way to install a speaker, eventhough I didn't seem to have seen a baffle for the speakers.

[JEFFYBOI]

Sealing a door up with deadener and other materials is possible to get the best midbass response from speakers. I know your talking fiberglassing up pods for your 8's qhich IMO will work well but i am a firm believer in deaden and sealing doors for best speaker response and to sound deaden from road noise as well. I spent 60 hrs doing my doors and the before and after results where huge.

I dont think spending a bunch of $ on replacement speakers to reinstall in stock location without proper deadening is ever a good route to go. I know i have made middle of the road speakers sound great, and great speakers sound like shit with a poor install.

First attempt and sounded muddy so i did some research.

Second round...accoustic foam on the inside.

Then sheet metal over the openongs....

With deadener over the metal and some foam on panel to help with rattles. Sound improved like 50% IMO.

Made some kicker panels and upgraded to T3's in doors with a new amp pushing both sets. 500 watts to mids upfront and still would like to add some 8's but gets loud and clear right now.

I think fiberglassing the 6.5 so the T3 are in a better listen position and then some 8's in the map pocket would look killer!

Ranger budget build.... sound deadening.

Deadener on the inside with acoustic foam and sealed holes.

$1000 build with Pioneer App radio, 4 RF P1683 ran off a PBR300x4, R10 slim sub & box off a P300x1 and for a small truck it sounds amazingly goo and clear. 2nd set of speakers in rear pods behind seats and those got deadened as well. 85 watts per ch and 400 watts of sub all set with DD-1 = 1 happy brother! lol Had stock radio in it for 5 yrs, now he has a system!

this info has been very helpful! thanks bro this is what I will be aiming for I think.

[bcbrassard]

Thank you sir! I try to help out with the knowledge i have gained off of SDM.