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Need Speakers For 1999 Explorer XLT


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http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_63993_Pioneer-TS-A6885R.html

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_67792_Rockford-Fosgate-R168X2.html

These would work just fine for what you want. There are plenty of other options, just filter search results.

2013 F150 Crew Cab



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2013 F150

Equipment - Some Awesome Stereo Sound Making Stuff

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Budget would around $100 for front and rear,not much,i know. :unknw:

I waas tryin to stay stock size for straight bolt on,an save alil money on bracket/plates.

Put your entire budget to the front speakers unless you want better sound for your passengers sitting in the back seat. A component set up front with proper tweeter placement will sound better then just swapping the factory to aftermarket speakers. Pioneer A series is decent.

If you want loud then get some PA mids and make a bracket out of MDF.

2010 Mazda 3s 2.5L

Pioneer DEH-X9600BHS

Knu OFC 1/0 

SS Platinum AGM / XS Power XP750

Alpine PDX F-4 / Morel Maximo 5 + Coax 5

IA 10.1 / SSA XCON 12 

 

 

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I have a similar car its a 2000 mercury montaineer with mach one system. It had stock components that r the same size as 6x8s and 6x8 in the back doors. I made custom adapters to fit 6.5 components up front and custom adapters for 6.5 coaxils in the back . I have them all amped from external amps

On 3/28/2014 at 4:22 PM, KyLar96 said:

Its all about the music anyway..... Do a proper install, something your happy with, Fuck everyone else...... improve in time, where you can..... its not rocket science...

Tiburon build //www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/174059-97-hyundai-tiburon-build-from-ramming-to-slamming-slow-5k-build/

2000 Mountaineer build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186736-2000-mountaineer-build-from-ramming-to-slamming-part-iislow-5k-builddc-audio-americanbassxspowersingerarcaudiostingershcavideo-on-pg7/

2000 Mercury Mountaineer: Electrical:Singer 360 hairpin powdercoated white alt, Big 4 double run 1/0 SHCA OFC, 4 runs 1/0 OFC SHCA, limitless 70ah, HU: Pioneer deh80prs interiors: Skar sk85.4 on sb acoustics neo dome tweeters 2 Mmats sq4100s on 4 silver flute 8s(4ohm) SUB Stage: 3 DC5K [email protected] on 6 ascendant audio mayhem 12s d1.4s fully loaded

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I fully agree with BoomZoom808, the front speakers are the only ones that will really be heard by you, the rear speakers won't add much at all to your enjoyment. Don't seem like there are many "Audiophiles" on this forum, but majority of such tend to run an amped set of components up front and a single sub in the rear, doing a rear speaker delete. Not saying this is what you have to do or anything, just letting you know that the front speakers are the most important and so they should take priority. I mean heck, if you were to follow suit with such, you'd be needing/wanting front speakers that could take 150RMS each and feed such to them for a "better balanced" system.

Running components up front can bring a lot to the sound stage and imaging, but using components without feeding them proper power seems like a complete waste IMO.

For 5x7/6x8 speakers, two sets come to mind as possible replacements you may find nice. From Pioneer, there's the TS-D6802R and from Polk there's the db571. Both are rated for 60RMS, but the Polks have a sensitivity of 93dB while the Pioneers have a mere 88dB. Sad truth though, I've used Polk speakers before a couple of times (not this mode though) and I have to say that in spite of their higher sensitivity ratings, they tend to be power hungry speakers. HU power allows them to sound ok, but the more power you give them, the better they sound. Granted, this holds true to any speaker, it's just that the specs of Polk speaker often suggest they'd do pretty well with mere HU power, which I don't necessarily find to be true.

Not sure if you have any local audio shops, but you may want to go to them if you do and sample the speakers on their sound boards with some of your music. Although chances are pretty much guaranteed that the speakers will be wired to an external amplifier providing much more power over that of a HU's internal amplifier.

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I would just spend the $100 on some good components up front if Ur running soundqubed I would save a lil more and buy there 6 1/2s ans run then up front off the deck till u can save up and amp them. That's what I would do if it was me

On 3/28/2014 at 4:22 PM, KyLar96 said:

Its all about the music anyway..... Do a proper install, something your happy with, Fuck everyone else...... improve in time, where you can..... its not rocket science...

Tiburon build //www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/174059-97-hyundai-tiburon-build-from-ramming-to-slamming-slow-5k-build/

2000 Mountaineer build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186736-2000-mountaineer-build-from-ramming-to-slamming-part-iislow-5k-builddc-audio-americanbassxspowersingerarcaudiostingershcavideo-on-pg7/

2000 Mercury Mountaineer: Electrical:Singer 360 hairpin powdercoated white alt, Big 4 double run 1/0 SHCA OFC, 4 runs 1/0 OFC SHCA, limitless 70ah, HU: Pioneer deh80prs interiors: Skar sk85.4 on sb acoustics neo dome tweeters 2 Mmats sq4100s on 4 silver flute 8s(4ohm) SUB Stage: 3 DC5K [email protected] on 6 ascendant audio mayhem 12s d1.4s fully loaded

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