DrewJones Posted June 17, 2014 Report Posted June 17, 2014 I have ran the db Drive Pro Audio mids, and now have the RF Mids. The RF mids are louder, cleaner, and over better construction IMO. TEAM SOUTH Bassahaulic Productions The ONLY Bright Atlantic Blue DiamondBoxx L Drew Jones Bassahaulic Productions 4 SSA ZCON 15"s 2 Sundown SCV-6000's 6 AGM G31's 161.6 @ 40Hz Outlaw 159.8 @ 36Hz Legal ┌∩┐(◣_◢)┌∩┐
Noel989 Posted June 17, 2014 Report Posted June 17, 2014 None. Sure it s loud as fuck, but there's nothing like hearing my Hertz components active after a day at a show where everyone and there mom has a stupid amount of PA mids and highs destroying eardrums. They do sound really nice and get loud I'm sure they sound better now Build Log - http://www.stevemead...-cruiser-el-pt/
DylanBunch Posted June 18, 2014 Report Posted June 18, 2014 Prv 2006 Ford Explorer 2 Team AA/Sundown 15s 6th order Ct Sounds 7k 4 PRV Mr500 8s Rockford p1000-2 Team Subsonic Lows
kirill007 Posted June 18, 2014 Report Posted June 18, 2014 None. Sure it s loud as fuck, but there's nothing like hearing my Hertz components active after a day at a show where everyone and there mom has a stupid amount of PA mids and highs destroying eardrums. They do sound really nice and get loud I'm sure they sound better now People have different standards, most of them don't even hear that a big part of the frequency spectrum is missing. None. Sure it s loud as fuck, but there's nothing like hearing my Hertz components active after a day at a show where everyone and there mom has a stupid amount of PA mids and highs destroying eardrums. Pro audio can sound very good and be loud as fuck at the same time. The big problem is that none of these so called pro audio drivers made by car audio manufacturers aren't pro audio drivers nor are they any good. You need to look at good Pro audio brands first and then decide which ones are going to fit your goals. After you've finally found the correct drivers, you will need to build a ported enclosure for the midbass/midrange driver. Finding a good midrange driver won't be that difficult. Finding a good tweeter to match it will be a little more difficult. NEVER use a bullet tweeter, they are very useless in a car audio environment and won't sound good unless used in a 3-way front stage. After you've finally got all the drivers, you need to install them properly (ported enclosure for the midbass/midrange, proper aiming of the tweeter). Usually a horn tweeter will give you good results. After installing it properly, you'll need a processor to manage all the frequencies and be able to tune them down as it won't sound perfect without a processor. After tweaking it for a few weeks/months you'll find that a horn with a midbass in a ported enclosure will give you amazing results. (better then the Hertz components,unless they also have some processing and a perfect install, but for loudness they won't be in the same ballpark.) I've seen very little PA installs in a car that were installed properly and mated properly.(none of those is on SMD, unless I've missed one) Thinking is the root of all problems... You ALWAYS get what you pay for.
sencheezy Posted June 18, 2014 Report Posted June 18, 2014 check out usspeaker.com for ideas. It's a pro audio fun house over there. Lots of great gear. Best Advice here. 165db with 237 DC Volts 6 15" SSA Evils 3 HV Taramps T60k @.33 18 XS Power D3400s Add me on SC, FB, IG, and YT @ Sencheezy
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