making my own "reducers"

[Aj11]

its more then 1400w and if so why doesn't it have 4g inputs? anyway that's why I'll be using the biggest bolt the amp input will allow. the actual reducers have very small.contact.points.

the dual run from rear battery to Amps and both

grounds still aren't as expensive as the actual rreducers. it will be dual 0g from front bat to rear then dual again to the amps. you can't give a amp to much wire. I'm feeding the battery really. the extra 6ft of wire isn't a big deal. especially if i only spend $12 to do it ; )

not to mention that the screw pushes the wire down. the wire isn't all around three inside of the terminal. its on the bottom and the screw... like the bolt would be. even then were talking about

.000001 ohms of resistance caused by that. but the dual runs again would make that void.

thanks for the input guys.

I'll be sure to tell everyone with 0g inputs that they wasted there money on 0g and should get 4g... because that's enough ; )

[n8ball2013]

These reducers are totally unnecessary imo

[evermaxx]

What Nate said.. But if your mind is set on it well then do it but you don't need it at all.

[_paralyzed_]

I would run 0 gauge to it myself, a little overkill is the way to build badass audio. I only mentioned that 4 gauge is adequate, because, well, 4 gauge can carry the 1400-1600 watts those amps put out, it is adequate. The amps have 0 gauge inputs because that's where we're at at this point in time in car audio- bigger is better.

Like I said, 0 gauge is already overkill, but I would run 0 gauge myself. 2 runs of 0 for that low of wattage is just silly and wasteful, and won't gain you anything.

That's just my 2 cents. I'm not bashing and I will enjoy watching your build regardless. Bass on man!

[Bump4life]

dual 0 gague on the ct 1400? yet want to save money? i bet youd have better performance with 1 wire going directly into the amp.

if you use a bolt and if end is threaded then think about your contact points, it would only be the thin threads which will heat up fast. if you can make it smooth then maybe, but also you would want to find aluminium or copper bolts. and the aluminium they make bolts out of probably isnt the same alloy as used in the porfessionally done dual inputs. i would steer away from this idea. you want dual inputs but you dont want to do it right. and you want to save money, solution, dont do dual inputs.

[Aj11]

i already have the wire. i mostly wanted to know if it would work. i got the answer i was looking for. were talking about 6ft of wire here guys.

plus i don't have any more 4g. and really don't want to buy anymore. so that's why I'm gonna run 0g to the 60.4 and that's the main reason i wanted too know if it would work.

overkill is always the way to go!

these new boards on the 1400.1 get warm! very hot actually! I'm trying to keep them cool. hoping dual runs of + & - And these big ass fans will do just that!

i have the new and old ct 1400.1 run the exact same way same wires grounds.. everything is the same!

the newer amp is so hot i can't touch it. while the older one doesn't get above the temp in my car. just heard about a 3000.1 going up in flames so I'm gonna do what i can to keep this temp down!

[Bump4life]

putting a jerry rigged input is not gunna get the temp down most likely. sure it will work as long as the metal is conductive but you better measure the voltage on both sides of the input. the only way to do that is to open amp up and measure voltage on inside vs voltage on outside while under load.

this jsut doesnt sound like a good idea. if you already ahve 0 gauge just cut the end down to a 4 gauge size and put it in the amp. no need to introduce extra resistance through a bolt and poor contact points.

[Aj11]

it's not really a bad connect. i found brass bolts that fit exact. top bottom and sides make contact.

anyway I'm not gonna void the warranty too find out why a Brand new amp is 60° hotter then the old one! i installed the fans today but didn't get a long bass session in. hopefully tomorrow I'll get a solid 45mins of play and see how much the fans helped.

i think I'm gonna go to the pet store and get two of the aquarium temperature things that are like a sticker and put one on each amp. this way i can easily tell exactly what's going on.

if I'm not mistaken 130° will burn your skin if touched for more then a few seconds. if that is correct the amp is much hotter then that. id say 160°

[evermaxx]

ive never had a 1400 get hot on me... even when I had one running at .5

[bighossf150]

Why not get an amp that doesn't burst into flames, audiopipe v2.0