Noel989 Posted June 23, 2014 Report Share Posted June 23, 2014 So you wanted a yes? Lol Build Log - http://www.stevemead...-cruiser-el-pt/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Francis Sheppard Posted June 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2014 so would it be okay to unhook the W1 and just wire the full 500watts to just the W3 till i get the new sub and amp??? Im addicted to loud bass and cant bare to be without it for another 2 weeks..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OrionStang Posted June 23, 2014 Report Share Posted June 23, 2014 so would it be okay to unhook the W1 and just wire the full 500watts to just the W3 till i get the new sub and amp??? Im addicted to loud bass and cant bare to be without it for another 2 weeks..... Get over it. Some of us haven't had bass for a long, long time. And won't have it back for a while. Take your time and do it right. SMD Super Seller My Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToNasty Posted June 23, 2014 Report Share Posted June 23, 2014 so would it be okay to unhook the W1 and just wire the full 500watts to just the W3 till i get the new sub and amp??? Im addicted to loud bass and cant bare to be without it for another 2 weeks.....Get over it. Some of us haven't had bass for a long, long time. And won't have it back for a while. Take your time and do it right. Exactly. I haven't had bass in over a year because I'm doing stuff right and like most people am picky about my equipment ***Super Sellers List***http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/25829-super-sellers-buyers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Francis Sheppard Posted June 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2014 so would it be okay to unhook the W1 and just wire the full 500watts to just the W3 till i get the new sub and amp??? Im addicted to loud bass and cant bare to be without it for another 2 weeks.....Get over it. Some of us haven't had bass for a long, long time. And won't have it back for a while. Take your time and do it right. Exactly. I haven't had bass in over a year because I'm doing stuff right and like most people am picky about my equipment so would it be okay to unhook the W1 and just wire the full 500watts to just the W3 till i get the new sub and amp??? Im addicted to loud bass and cant bare to be without it for another 2 weeks..... Get over it. Some of us haven't had bass for a long, long time. And won't have it back for a while. Take your time and do it right. i just went ahead and bought the second sub...now i just have to wait 2 weeks for the 1000 watt amp... was going to push them with just 250each but everyone online/ youtube/ and reviews say they handle 500watt each better-- jl site says 250-300 is optimal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToNasty Posted June 23, 2014 Report Share Posted June 23, 2014 you bought another jl sub? how much ? ***Super Sellers List***http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/25829-super-sellers-buyers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weigel21 Posted June 23, 2014 Report Share Posted June 23, 2014 so would it be okay to unhook the W1 and just wire the full 500watts to just the W3 till i get the new sub and amp??? Im addicted to loud bass and cant bare to be without it for another 2 weeks..... Your mono amplifier was stated by you as being 500 Watts (RMS?) and that was implied to be for powering both subs wired for a 2 ohm final impedance. You'll be running just the one W3 or W1 now and that would then present a 4 ohm load, so the amplifier won't do 500RMS, more like 200-300RMS. However, another concern, if the enclosure is ported with a single slot port between the two subs, powering just one of the subs can present a danger as the other half of the enclosure will in some way add to the internal volume and this could change the port tuning and will also be quite likely to cause the single driver powered to not handle it's full RMS power rating. The W3, while technically 500RMS, has not been changed since it was a 300RMS rated model, JL merely opted to list the thermal power handling of the sub instead. If you actually read the manual, 300RMS is ideal power for it. Safest route is to just wait a couple weeks for the new W3 to replace the old W1 and then have both W3's break in at similar rates. Yes, it may suck to be without bass, doubt anyone on here would argue that, but it beats having equipment fail or having sloppy bass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Francis Sheppard Posted June 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2014 so would it be okay to unhook the W1 and just wire the full 500watts to just the W3 till i get the new sub and amp??? Im addicted to loud bass and cant bare to be without it for another 2 weeks..... Your mono amplifier was stated by you as being 500 Watts (RMS?) and that was implied to be for powering both subs wired for a 2 ohm final impedance. You'll be running just the one W3 or W1 now and that would then present a 4 ohm load, so the amplifier won't do 500RMS, more like 200-300RMS. However, another concern, if the enclosure is ported with a single slot port between the two subs, powering just one of the subs can present a danger as the other half of the enclosure will in some way add to the internal volume and this could change the port tuning and will also be quite likely to cause the single driver powered to not handle it's full RMS power rating. The W3, while technically 500RMS, has not been changed since it was a 300RMS rated model, JL merely opted to list the thermal power handling of the sub instead. If you actually read the manual, 300RMS is ideal power for it. Safest route is to just wait a couple weeks for the new W3 to replace the old W1 and then have both W3's break in at similar rates. Yes, it may suck to be without bass, doubt anyone on here would argue that, but it beats having equipment fail or having sloppy bass. i dont know who said the box was single slotted cause it isnt ... the box is custom... it has a divider... it holds 2 10s but realistically its just 2 singles together if thats easier to understand.... theres is 2 ports one for each side... So doing the 1000 watt isnt a good idea??? should I stay with the 500 watt or it least bump to a 600watt for the extra juice?? (and the current amp is 500 a 2 ohms and 300 at 4ohms) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Francis Sheppard Posted June 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2014 you bought another jl sub? how much ? i bought another jl W3v3-4 to match the one I just bought... i saved a little money and got them for $200 each from a store I buy stuff from up the street. I think MSRP price is like $240, but i send them alot of business so they hook me up from time to time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkolfo4 Posted June 23, 2014 Report Share Posted June 23, 2014 I need for someone to explain how two different subs driven by the same source will "cancel" just because they are not the same model, same size, same t/s parameters, etc. I have done the experiments with different sizes, models, etc. Took measurements with a mic. I don't agree. Two different subs both playing 50 Hz are going to add, unless you wire one of them out of phase. Current system: 1997 Blazer - (4) Customer Fi NEO subs with (8) American Bass Elite 2800.1s Previous systems: 2000 Suburban - (4) BTL 15's and (4) IA 40.1's = 157.7 dB at 37 Hz. 1992 Astro Van - (6) BTL 15's and (6) IA 40.1's = 159.7 dB at 43 Hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.