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Identifying a electrical bottleneck


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So I'd like help on finding when to add a dedicated ground.

In the chassis vs cable video from the 2 Tonys that we know and love, they use a 1500 watt amp and a stock alternator. In my vehicle ill be about triple the draw and at least double the alternator power.

I'm grounded currently to both the front and rear strut towers, I have all OFC 1/0 and copper lugs 16ton crimped. Just installed my dc 270xp which was clamped yesterday to do 247amps in my vehicle. D3100 and d3400 as my batteries. Amps are a b2 zero.1 at a half ohm nominal,and a b2 class H Quattro running 4 ohms on all channels.

What I'd like to know is how exactly is the best way to determine if a dedicated ground wire is right for me at this point in time. I'm on the quest to hold great 13v+ voltage while demoing full tilt! and I'm not ready to jump into the supercaps game yet.

I do have snap on load testers at my disposal, true rms dmm's and whatever else I should need because I'm currently at dads shop and were good friends with an awesome alternator and battery shop around the corner.

So can someone give me directions on how exactly to prove if my current grounds would be better then 1/0 OFC?

I could just add the dedicated run,yes...but I kind of want to prove it before I use all that time installing it.

My old YouTube channel : http://www.youtube.com/user/SwordLords1234?feature=mhee

My old build log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/161872-96-accord-b2-sundown-sky-high-dc-power-re-re-build-for-heatwave/page-37

My New Build - http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/207041-2016-mazda-6-sql-build/

2016 Mazda 6 Touring

JL Fix 86 - OEM signal correction

B2 prototype DSP 6to8

B2 Ref63 - 3 way active set

2 B2 Class H quattro's

1 B2 Zero.5R @.5

2 B2 HNv3 12 d2

B2 SLIP40 - Lithium in the trunk

Northstar Group 35 under the hood

100ft 2/0 welding cable

30ft 4ga welding cable

20ft 8ga welding cable

All stinger OFC speaker wire

Soundrive custom RCA's

Tons of attention to detail.... Can it be perfect?

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Put DMM on DC milliohms.

Put probes on the front and rear ground points.

Play a test tone full tilt where you usually get the most voltage drop.

Check the meter and see how much voltage drop you have through the chassis.

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iPadMini2

Dash mounted O-scope
Audison bitOne (Remote DRC MP)
Highs Amp - PPI Art A404
Hertz HSK130 (HSK165 waiting...)
DC Audio DC9.0K
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OUTLAW         - 150.2dB @ 45Hz

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^^But don't put it on an ohm setting. Put it on volts :)

Do this: You have more than 1 power run to the rear right.... RIGHT? Play a tone, measure voltage at the rear and amperage coming off your alt. Pop one of the runs off, convert it to a ground run. Do the same thing. Measure voltage drop to the rear, amperage coming off the alt, and this time measure amperage going through the ground wire.

It's an easy way to test resistance and see if your best bang for the buck would be more positive runs or negative runs. In my case, a negative run was only worth 15 amps w/ a 250a draw. Converted it to a positive run and gained .2v at the rear

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do that^^ test voltage drop under load. i can tell you more positive runs and grounding to the frame in rear will support most power under 5k with no issues.

Buyer/Seller Feedback Thread: http://www.stevemead...5015-bump4life/
MB C220 153 Trunk Car Build Log: http://www.stevemead...d/#entry1840136
MB C280 Ipad Dash SQ Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/194484-bump4lifes-new-benz-tony-c-relay-kit-pictures-ce-electric-audison-front-stage-installed/
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BMW M340 xDrive

Stock, for now. Corner Load 10" maybe soon. But does 10s in the 1/4...
Best Scores out of a trunk
153.0 sealed legal full tilt clamped 5524 @ 42 hz
154+ windows down, 155+ kick

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^^But don't put it on an ohm setting. Put it on volts :)

Do this: You have more than 1 power run to the rear right.... RIGHT? Play a tone, measure voltage at the rear and amperage coming off your alt. Pop one of the runs off, convert it to a ground run. Do the same thing. Measure voltage drop to the rear, amperage coming off the alt, and this time measure amperage going through the ground wire.

It's an easy way to test resistance and see if your best bang for the buck would be more positive runs or negative runs. In my case, a negative run was only worth 15 amps w/ a 250a draw. Converted it to a positive run and gained .2v at the rear

Whoops! Brainfart..... :o

Yep, I meant millivolts...

:peepwall:

Thx Snow :good:

This post sent with 100% recycled electrons.
2004 BMW M3
Mechman 280A
2 - XS Power XP3000

1 - XS Power D375

500F of Maxwell SuperCaps (soon to be 1000F)
iPadMini2

Dash mounted O-scope
Audison bitOne (Remote DRC MP)
Highs Amp - PPI Art A404
Hertz HSK130 (HSK165 waiting...)
DC Audio DC9.0K
2- DC Audio XL12m2

LEGAL             - 147.3dB @ 41Hz
OUTLAW         - 150.2dB @ 45Hz

OUTLAW         - 145.7dB @ 30Hz
JUNE 2014 SOTM WINNER

2014 COLORADO PEOPLE'S CHOICE WINNER

SOTM BUILD:
http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/141656-wicks-e46-m3-build-bass-turbo-button-and-a-big-new-addition/page-68#entry2802026

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am i getting a demo??

Sorry Ross, she won't have amps until I get to Houston. Bring a m4 with you and we will go on a couple hour boom cruise.

My old YouTube channel : http://www.youtube.com/user/SwordLords1234?feature=mhee

My old build log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/161872-96-accord-b2-sundown-sky-high-dc-power-re-re-build-for-heatwave/page-37

My New Build - http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/207041-2016-mazda-6-sql-build/

2016 Mazda 6 Touring

JL Fix 86 - OEM signal correction

B2 prototype DSP 6to8

B2 Ref63 - 3 way active set

2 B2 Class H quattro's

1 B2 Zero.5R @.5

2 B2 HNv3 12 d2

B2 SLIP40 - Lithium in the trunk

Northstar Group 35 under the hood

100ft 2/0 welding cable

30ft 4ga welding cable

20ft 8ga welding cable

All stinger OFC speaker wire

Soundrive custom RCA's

Tons of attention to detail.... Can it be perfect?

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Share on other sites

^^But don't put it on an ohm setting. Put it on volts :)

Do this: You have more than 1 power run to the rear right.... RIGHT? Play a tone, measure voltage at the rear and amperage coming off your alt. Pop one of the runs off, convert it to a ground run. Do the same thing. Measure voltage drop to the rear, amperage coming off the alt, and this time measure amperage going through the ground wire.

It's an easy way to test resistance and see if your best bang for the buck would be more positive runs or negative runs. In my case, a negative run was only worth 15 amps w/ a 250a draw. Converted it to a positive run and gained .2v at the rear

I'm restricted by my organization with 2 runs of OFC no matter what they are. So I've got 1 run of positive and no full runs of negative. So I chose to go all OFC for my power run and just stick with grounds on my strut towers

My old YouTube channel : http://www.youtube.com/user/SwordLords1234?feature=mhee

My old build log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/161872-96-accord-b2-sundown-sky-high-dc-power-re-re-build-for-heatwave/page-37

My New Build - http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/207041-2016-mazda-6-sql-build/

2016 Mazda 6 Touring

JL Fix 86 - OEM signal correction

B2 prototype DSP 6to8

B2 Ref63 - 3 way active set

2 B2 Class H quattro's

1 B2 Zero.5R @.5

2 B2 HNv3 12 d2

B2 SLIP40 - Lithium in the trunk

Northstar Group 35 under the hood

100ft 2/0 welding cable

30ft 4ga welding cable

20ft 8ga welding cable

All stinger OFC speaker wire

Soundrive custom RCA's

Tons of attention to detail.... Can it be perfect?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

^^But don't put it on an ohm setting. Put it on volts :)

Do this: You have more than 1 power run to the rear right.... RIGHT? Play a tone, measure voltage at the rear and amperage coming off your alt. Pop one of the runs off, convert it to a ground run. Do the same thing. Measure voltage drop to the rear, amperage coming off the alt, and this time measure amperage going through the ground wire.

It's an easy way to test resistance and see if your best bang for the buck would be more positive runs or negative runs. In my case, a negative run was only worth 15 amps w/ a 250a draw. Converted it to a positive run and gained .2v at the rear

I'm restricted by my organization with 2 runs of OFC no matter what they are. So I've got 1 run of positive and no full runs of negative. So I chose to go all OFC for my power run and just stick with grounds on my strut towers

you need 2 runs positive. youll notice a difference. 270+ amps from alt and battery up front is too much for 1 run of 1/0 OFC once everything is hot to have an acceptable drop, (of less than 5%)

Buyer/Seller Feedback Thread: http://www.stevemead...5015-bump4life/
MB C220 153 Trunk Car Build Log: http://www.stevemead...d/#entry1840136
MB C280 Ipad Dash SQ Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/194484-bump4lifes-new-benz-tony-c-relay-kit-pictures-ce-electric-audison-front-stage-installed/
My SPL Log: http://www.stevemead...__fromsearch__1

BMW M340 xDrive

Stock, for now. Corner Load 10" maybe soon. But does 10s in the 1/4...
Best Scores out of a trunk
153.0 sealed legal full tilt clamped 5524 @ 42 hz
154+ windows down, 155+ kick

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use this site to get an idea. under 3-4% is what id shoot for if I was you. If you are like me, I have under 1% voltage drop at 350A load

http://www.calculator.net/voltage-drop-calculator.html?material=copper&wiresize=0.2557&voltage=14.2&phase=dc&noofconductor=1&distance=15&distanceunit=feet&amperes=300&x=40&y=11

Buyer/Seller Feedback Thread: http://www.stevemead...5015-bump4life/
MB C220 153 Trunk Car Build Log: http://www.stevemead...d/#entry1840136
MB C280 Ipad Dash SQ Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/194484-bump4lifes-new-benz-tony-c-relay-kit-pictures-ce-electric-audison-front-stage-installed/
My SPL Log: http://www.stevemead...__fromsearch__1

BMW M340 xDrive

Stock, for now. Corner Load 10" maybe soon. But does 10s in the 1/4...
Best Scores out of a trunk
153.0 sealed legal full tilt clamped 5524 @ 42 hz
154+ windows down, 155+ kick

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