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What is an acceptable box rise?


Smoove

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7 is a good box rise

2002 Honda CR-V
Alpine 9887

My Build

Rebuilding...

Second Skin Damp
4 DC XL 15's
2 DC 5ks
Singer 320 amp
6 cap banks
Sky High wire
2 VM-1's
OM-1

all under window line

Team DC Audio

Obama has a law he's trying to pass right now, trying to ban Leo for being a threat to children everywhere.



EDIT: Not in a JP kind of way.

I thought I was going to die from all the jizz filling my ears.

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What you are missing is that you can take the sub out of the box and the rise is still there.

Can you measure impedance at all frequencies you plan to play and then adjust your coil configuration to allow for more power to the subs? Sure. If you have dual 2 ohm coils wired at 1 ohm and find your minimum impedance is 2 ohms across your frequency band, then you can more than likely change to a dual 1 ohm configuration and still be fine.

Should you build a different box to shift the impedance peak, but then screw up the overall system response? I would not. Why you would want to?

As someone already stated above (and we have discussed many times), just because you have a spike at Fs and the driver is not seeing as much power at Fs, does NOT mean there is a drop in output at Fs. This is the part where everyone seems to be confused. If your impedance is 2 ohms at 50 Hz and 10 ohms at Fs, the output does not drop off at Fs. If it did, every driver made would have to have a resonant frequency outside of its usable frequency range.

Current system:

1997 Blazer - (4) Customer Fi NEO subs with (8) American Bass Elite 2800.1s

Previous systems:

2000 Suburban - (4) BTL 15's and (4) IA 40.1's = 157.7 dB at 37 Hz.

1992 Astro Van - (6) BTL 15's and (6) IA 40.1's = 159.7 dB at 43 Hz.

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anytime you want to let me know justin

Soon, very soon I will want to test again

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Burp and a musical competition.

Say, a 30 second run, with a door open.

Opening a window or a door, and WHAT door will change your impedance here and there.

FOR THOSE OF US THAT LIKE TO KNOW..... it does help.

It showed me to play THIS song, with THIS door open.

THIS SONG with the door shut.

THIS SONG, if i use blockers.

Again..... its all how deep down the rabbit hole, you wanna go.

Now for those of you that took the blue pill... do your thing.

The rest of us, are gonna keep going. If not, just for something to do, and something more to learn about OUR build.

You fuck with, or dont fuck with yours how you see fit.

Again.. to each there own.

i do agree with you on that. i checked mine because ive been having a few issues. I certainly found 1 of them as a result of me doing some testing.

That issues was not enough power....lol....impedance rise cut the amount of power my subs are actually seeing to about half of what ifigured they were getting.

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i do clamp my system, just because i can get my system more efficient when i´m testing everything, at the beggining, i was doing 148.1 @ 49 hz with 2100 clamped, right now i´m doing 155.2 @ 41 hz with 2600 clamped :)

I´m the SPL Gains topic creator!! wanna get louder?? check this: SPL Gains. Panamenian 2009 & 2010 & 2014 Bass Race 149.9 Champion!

2 15" subs and a 2K wired at 1 ohm, http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167788-fecupe2001-2-15s-on-a-2k-video-on-page-3/

8 Massive 15" subs and small power, http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/179296-fecupe2001s-8-15s-4th-order-bandpass-wall/

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my big mistake was not clamping the system after it was built. the amp i had on the system decided to retire itself a couple of months ago. Had i known prior(what i know now about box rise and where mine actually was) to ordering another amp to get by in the mean time, i would have made a much different purchase.

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