amp going in protection mode! have good ground and havent blown 60 amp fuse. not hot . 13+volts

[Guest]

touch DMM probes together. subtract the number you get from every thing you test the resistance on from now on.

[hispls]

thats what im doing forsure forsure tomorrow. is its not 3.7 for each coil thats fucked up cause its like brand new . but i did get it from sound electronicx which supposibly only sells B GRADE stuff

EACH COIL should see @ 4 ohm. The two paralleled should read at or a little under 2 ohm (so if you just unhook the wires at the amp side and measure impedance there you should see somewhere around 2 ohm. Between 1.5 and 3 should be expected, over 3 and it's likely only 1 coil is hooked up. Also I'm not sure about the wire diagram. + and - terminals will not be oriented like that IRL. DO pay attention to the markings or colors on the actual terminals.

20 year old class AB technology. i was drawing more than 10 amps.

my hifonics 1605d was fine on the same electrical.

Unless you're playing sine waves to your highs you're really not drawing that much current with your fronts amp. I think you'd be really surprised to see how long you could play it on most music with a 10 or 15A fuse without opening. Your amp may draw 5X that briefly at peaks, but current is coulombs per second... like work (in the force/time), there's a time factor involved. If you played a typical song and could actually average the current for 3 minutes it would be much lower than you think.

please just stop, you're so ignorant its making my stomach hurt

I actually laughed out loud reading this. Please forgive my ignorance and enlighten me. Which protection feature is the one that is triggered by clipping? What do they call this? Why isn't it in the manual? What other brands have this feature? Surely if you know what you're talking about you can simply answer the question.

LOL "add another battery", again more electrical advice for someone not experiencing a significant voltage drop at all.

You are so full of win.

I actually took time out of my day for this nonsense and I'm kinda glad I did

After looking into the hifonics brutus protection modes you seem to have forgotten

OVERLOAD PROTECTION in your list a couple posts back

"DC, Short Circuit, Thermal and Overload Protection"

By clipping or amplifying a square wave your outputs see thousands

more watts through the amp than the parts are meant to tolerate

This "over load" is detected and the amp is sent into protect

This protect feature is important because it detects the flow of current faster than an actual fuse would

You're really grasping for straws here. Let's start with my "upgrade electrical" advice. All the google images I've seen of OP's amp's internals show it either identical or comparable to AQ2200.1 I think recommending to NOT run that one off a stock electrical is pretty sound advice.

Next, in which Hifonics manual did you find any reference to over-current protection? I searched all the Brutus manuals on their website and found nothing of the sort. Your circuit you posted is from at article at EE times. That has nothing to do with Hifonics and the article doesn't even mention clipping.

Furthermore your "thousands of watts" more from a clipped signal more bullshit. The difference between a perfect sine wave and a perfect square wave with the same peak to peak is 1.41 times. Not a good thing, but please do some reading so you can understand what a sine wave is, what a square wave is, how to measure power of each, and how clipping changes a waveform.

There is no "clipping" triggered protection circuit period. You're just attempting to parrot something you heard about and now backpedaling and dancing around to try to not look foolish. I assure you, you could play a pure square wave for hours at 25% of maximum power on that amp with no problem, likewise, assuming that amp does have over-current protection there is every possibility that you could drive it into such a state with little or no clipping. If you feel OP is over-driving his amp, just say that. People trying to use terms they don't understand and posting pictures of circuits they find online to try to give themselves credibility doesn't help anyone's understanding in this hobby.

This whole "clipping" boogeyman is way over-played in online forums and on here in particular. It has turned into a word to throw out whenever someone is having a problem or if something breaks and the punchline always seems to be "spend a couple hundred dollars in test equipment or the scary clipping monster will get you".

[Guest]

20 year old class AB technology. i was drawing more than 10 amps.

my hifonics 1605d was fine on the same electrical.

Unless you're playing sine waves to your highs you're really not drawing that much current with your fronts amp.

You're really grasping for straws here.

Furthermore your "thousands of watts" more from a clipped signal more bullshit.

You're just attempting to parrot something you heard about and now backpedaling and dancing around to try to not look foolish.

I assure you, you could play a pure square wave for hours at 25% of maximum power on that amp with no problem, likewise, assuming that amp does have over-current protection there is every possibility that you could drive it into such a state with little or no clipping.

This whole "clipping" boogeyman is way over-played in online forums and on here in particular.

Wow dude just wow.

[fufhubbin]

sorry this got so personal for some! i really really appreciate everyones insight

so i ohmed out my sub and it came in a 1.9 and did creep to 1.8 after a couple 30 sec.! yay thats good

also blew my 60 amp fuse finally BUT... i have been waiting to hook up my BUTTKICKER tactile transducer and have been waiting for some stuff in the mail but decided to just wire it into the hifonics with the sub as well since they are both 2 ohms i figured the amp would see the load as 4 ohms. it was thumpin pretty hard for a bit the buttkicker really added a nice touch to my bass omg my seat vibrated like in my friends car that has 4 12s!!! anyways turned the bass from +0 to +3 and knew i was pushing it pretty had cause my shits never sounded so loud and pop went a fuse ! the amp is rated at 850watts on 4 ohms

NOW the questions is how come i was able to blow the fuse when i was running 4 ohms and had the bass shaker hooked up. 1 thing i will note is that even thou i just wired the bass shaker in with the sub i thought i would be able to power them both but the sub would be less loud. this wasnt the case. the sub was the exact same volume!

[SIDE SHOW]

*gone*

[reedal]

My suggestion to you is to read and research and try to get a basic knowledge of electricity. Here's a book.

http://www.wccaraudio.com/more/books/automotive-wiring-and-electrical-systems.html

I haven't read this, so I only know whats in it as far as the description tells me, but I would assume it's probably pretty accurate for a good beginners guide to electricity, which you appear to definitely need if you dont understand why your 60 amp fuse blew when you added a load that pulls more current.

I HIGHLY suggest you do research if you value your vehicle and the equipment you're putting into it. Please.

[hispls]

Wow dude just wow.

Still won't admit that you're wrong? That's OK, at least you might think twice about posting misinformation in the future.

sorry this got so personal for some! i really really appreciate everyones insight

so i ohmed out my sub and it came in a 1.9 and did creep to 1.8 after a couple 30 sec.! yay thats good

also blew my 60 amp fuse finally BUT... i have been waiting to hook up my BUTTKICKER tactile transducer and have been waiting for some stuff in the mail but decided to just wire it into the hifonics with the sub as well since they are both 2 ohms i figured the amp would see the load as 4 ohms. it was thumpin pretty hard for a bit the buttkicker really added a nice touch to my bass omg my seat vibrated like in my friends car that has 4 12s!!! anyways turned the bass from +0 to +3 and knew i was pushing it pretty had cause my shits never sounded so loud and pop went a fuse ! the amp is rated at 850watts on 4 ohms

NOW the questions is how come i was able to blow the fuse when i was running 4 ohms and had the bass shaker hooked up. 1 thing i will note is that even thou i just wired the bass shaker in with the sub i thought i would be able to power them both but the sub would be less loud. this wasnt the case. the sub was the exact same volume!

It's very likely that you have the woofer and transducer in parallel wired to 1 ohm. I'm not sure what the transducer can handle for power, but I'd be a little worried about that... they are a very cool effect.

You can get fuses for pretty cheap on eBay, and you could increase the size if you're actually running 1 ohm and opening fuses often. IF you want to protect your amp in the event of a real problem you should run with a fuse size that will open occasionally when you really get carried away. That being said, that amp will likely need higher than 60A fuse if you're running 1 ohm.

[fufhubbin]

thanks so much i bet is around 1 ohm now that you say that.

ive almost got all the info i need and ill stop posting

the transducer can handle it says on it 350min 800 max so it doesnt give an rms the sub is 2000 rms 4000 max

so do exactly half the watts the amp is putting out go to each evenly or nah

the tranducer is actually amazing it feels like verry verry powerful bass

[poorfish88]

Man, I just read most of this thread, and I want my wasted time back. DERP

[fufhubbin]

^my bad