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Parasitic draw after replacing big 3 to stock


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Posted

So my old build my 91' civic hatch. Once I blew the trans it just sat. I ripped the entire sound system out, and before that, it would still start right up just wouldn't move. I ripped the entire sound system out, even the big 3. So it sat without power for a while. One I got around to getting new wires set up to replace the now missing big 3, the battery was around 11.5-11.8. This was also sitting for a few months without any charge. So once I replaced all the wires and after it was charging, took 2 turn key turns and it fired right up. Let it run for a little bit to make sure the alt gave it some charge. Went out today, not a damn thing when I turned the key. Pulled out the DMM and that battery is at 1.5v. Threw my small 6amp charger on it, only could get it up to 12.8 and couldn't even start it. Found a 50amp Starter in my garage and got it started. Still even after running and charging for a while, 1 minute after it's shut off it's already at 12v flat. Literally all I replaced was the chasis ground and engine block ground. There is no stereo what so ever in this car nor any accessories. What the hell could have went wrong here? I am only really conscerned because I plan to sell this car very very soon and want to get the most for it and this will definetely hurt that.

Edit: Was also thinking, any chance it just randomly crapped out and is no good anymore? I don't have any other batts to swap out to test if there is a draw.

On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said:

Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol.

On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said:

fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point

On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said:

I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha

  • Soon To Be
  • '04 Ford Escape
  • US Alternator 280A Hairpin
  • D4800 Under the Hood
  • (6) XP3000's in Rear
  • 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back
  • TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply
  • Pioneer DEH-80PRS
  • DD AW6.5 (2) per door
  • *Tweeter Unkown*
  • DD SS4a & C3d
  • (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm
  • (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
Posted

What you need to do is measure amp draw with the car turned off and see if you have a significant dark current. Varies from one vehicle to another, but I've never seen more than a couple amps, usually less than 1.

Very possible the battery just shit from sitting so long.

2015 Toyota Tacoma Build Thread

2007 Mazda 3; 5000K HID's, Kenwood Excelon KDC-X997, Infinity Reference 6.5 comps in front and coaxials in the rear doors, JL 320.4 four channel, Rab Designs built ported enclosure with an SA12, Kenwood monoblock, Redline Leater shift boot/e-brake boot/center console cover, JBR short shifter/shifter bushings/rear motor mount.

Build Thread

 

1996 Mazda Miata: Kenwood Excelon HU, Alpine speaker in the doors, Clearwater (miata specific) headrest speakers. 

 

1994 Mazda Protege: Kenwood Excelon HU, Infinity Reference 2 ways all around, 2x RF Punch 10's in ported boxes. 

Posted

The battery cant be that old, no more than 6-8 months. And even with the sound system, it was always running with big 3 in 1/0 and a 120A HO alt so I never seen below 13v. I will go get the battery tested tomorrow and see if that's it. Phil how would I go about measuring that?

On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said:

Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol.

On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said:

fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point

On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said:

I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha

  • Soon To Be
  • '04 Ford Escape
  • US Alternator 280A Hairpin
  • D4800 Under the Hood
  • (6) XP3000's in Rear
  • 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back
  • TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply
  • Pioneer DEH-80PRS
  • DD AW6.5 (2) per door
  • *Tweeter Unkown*
  • DD SS4a & C3d
  • (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm
  • (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
Posted

well if the battery sat for months with no charger chances are it gave out. another thing you can do is give it a full charge. enough to turn the car on and drive it for 20 minutes is not enough. its still a dead battery. leave a charger on it overnight and test it then

Posted

if you keep running the car with a dead battery you will fry the alternator. with over 4k post i figured you should know better by now

It still turns over, just not instantly. I will pull it out and leave it on a trickle charger over night. Also I only ran it twice since the 1.5v happening.

On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said:

Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol.

On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said:

fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point

On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said:

I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha

  • Soon To Be
  • '04 Ford Escape
  • US Alternator 280A Hairpin
  • D4800 Under the Hood
  • (6) XP3000's in Rear
  • 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back
  • TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply
  • Pioneer DEH-80PRS
  • DD AW6.5 (2) per door
  • *Tweeter Unkown*
  • DD SS4a & C3d
  • (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm
  • (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
Posted

The battery cant be that old, no more than 6-8 months. And even with the sound system, it was always running with big 3 in 1/0 and a 120A HO alt so I never seen below 13v. I will go get the battery tested tomorrow and see if that's it. Phil how would I go about measuring that?

Measure for amperage draw at the battery/main power wire with everything shut off. There will still be a little current (clock/memory, the various accessories that are constant 12+) but shouldn't be anything too drastic.

2015 Toyota Tacoma Build Thread

2007 Mazda 3; 5000K HID's, Kenwood Excelon KDC-X997, Infinity Reference 6.5 comps in front and coaxials in the rear doors, JL 320.4 four channel, Rab Designs built ported enclosure with an SA12, Kenwood monoblock, Redline Leater shift boot/e-brake boot/center console cover, JBR short shifter/shifter bushings/rear motor mount.

Build Thread

 

1996 Mazda Miata: Kenwood Excelon HU, Alpine speaker in the doors, Clearwater (miata specific) headrest speakers. 

 

1994 Mazda Protege: Kenwood Excelon HU, Infinity Reference 2 ways all around, 2x RF Punch 10's in ported boxes. 

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