Miguels Posted October 3, 2014 Report Share Posted October 3, 2014 youre better off getting a saz4500 and running it at 4 ohms CT sound amps i wouldnt run at .5 ohms. my logshttp://www.stevemead...-my-new-set-up/my blow through loghttp://www.stevemead...future-updates/ 96 ss http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/164094-96-impala-ss-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broke_Audio_Addict Posted October 3, 2014 Report Share Posted October 3, 2014 you can get rated power with an amp with 50% efficiency. the only issue will be that you need a shit load of electrical to make that power.Thats what I was trying to avoid, needing a wad of batteries to get to rated power. I have a Kinetik 850a cell in there now and plan on adding a second before installing the second 15. Big 3 is done, stock alt. is 130a. I am going to get a DC Power 230a down the road but want to deal with first things first. With the two cells, big 3 and a 130a alt., will that be enough to power the CT 1400.1D @0.5ohms? Just don't want to get the amp and find out I need more batteries or a new alternator before I can even use it. You're going to be better off spending more money and buying an amp that puts out the power you want at 2 ohm or two amps gain, crossover matched at 1 ohm. Also either of those options will have better Sq than an amp wired at .5. That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evermaxx Posted October 3, 2014 Report Share Posted October 3, 2014 youre better off getting a saz4500 and running it at 4 ohms CT sound amps i wouldnt run at .5 ohms. lmk when you can find a saz4500 for 350. Team Subsonic Lows Get your garbage EMF products of my amp bitch Man....it makes a nice work bench Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miguels Posted October 3, 2014 Report Share Posted October 3, 2014 his not going to get what he wants for 350. stop telling people to run gear at .5 ohms. you aint going to buy him a new car when his burns down my logshttp://www.stevemead...-my-new-set-up/my blow through loghttp://www.stevemead...future-updates/ 96 ss http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/164094-96-impala-ss-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted October 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2014 Some amps can be ran at 0.5ohm daily but that is a good point with the SQ loss. Some say the CT 1400.1D can do 0.5ohm fine, some say it's a death wish. I am trying to stay efficient and by the sounds of it, staying at 2ohms would be the most efficient choice. Amps that do 2k @2ohms are crazy in price so what kind of efficiency would I see from two, 1k's @1ohm @12.6v? Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miguels Posted October 3, 2014 Report Share Posted October 3, 2014 from 60 to 70% most amps are tested at 4 ohms also just because you can run them at .5 ohms dont mean you should. its not safe and can end up costing you a car my logshttp://www.stevemead...-my-new-set-up/my blow through loghttp://www.stevemead...future-updates/ 96 ss http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/164094-96-impala-ss-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GassenD Posted October 3, 2014 Report Share Posted October 3, 2014 Have you thought about just staying with one of those XL's and getting a nicer amp? I had a BRX 2000 and it definitely wasn't efficient or even did clean power. Is your Currently XL in a prefab box or custom? If it's in a prefab I vote for just getting a nice box built, with a nice new amp: Soundqubed 1200D, Crescendo S1500.1, DD M1c, etc. There's so many out there that are clean and efficient compared to the BRX. Then just save up over time and grab another XL and another matching amp and strap em.. Just an idea.. '97 Explorer2 Sundown SA 15's SQ 2200D Kinetik KHC1800 (Front) Kinetik KHC 2000 (Back) KnuKonceptz 1/0 OFC 130A Alt + Big 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted October 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2014 Have you thought about just staying with one of those XL's and getting a nicer amp? I had a BRX 2000 and it definitely wasn't efficient or even did clean power. Is your Currently XL in a prefab box or custom? If it's in a prefab I vote for just getting a nice box built, with a nice new amp: Soundqubed 1200D, Crescendo S1500.1, DD M1c, etc. There's so many out there that are clean and efficient compared to the BRX. Then just save up over time and grab another XL and another matching amp and strap em.. Just an idea.. It's in a custom box @30Hz. I want to compete next spring and don't think one is going to cut it. The competition where I will be competing isn't very stiff but I want to see mid to high 140's if possible. I am already in the process of building the box for two of them and I can get the 3XL on my credit line so that isn't a big deal. I agree, the Hifonics are in no way efficient, that's why I want the amp that's powering two of these to be as efficient as possible. I would consider strapping two amps, especially if it would save me money. Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karkov Posted October 3, 2014 Report Share Posted October 3, 2014 get an amp you can run @.5 once you get your alt, just run it at @2 for the time being. I think that CT 1400 is the problem solver! Didn't even think of the possibility they could do 0.5ohm yea, those amps are supposed to do more like 1800 watts at 1 ohm so if you run it at 0.5 (at your own risk but some people do it) it will slam those subs pretty sure i told him at his own risk 2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD) 12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option 2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67 3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet) 1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4 4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps (rear fill only) 1 ~ XS Power D4800 1 ~ XS Power D3400 8 ~ XS Power XP3000 160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power 320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/knfjdkghjudfhsgkjdhf/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted October 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2014 My friend is running two of them CT 1400.1D's @.33ohms each, daily. With a lot of amps, I would say .5 is pushing it but these amps seem to do ok with it. Thanks again everyone, for all the help! Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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