AstoSoup Posted October 22, 2014 Report Share Posted October 22, 2014 I am doing a new installation of a 360W RMS 4ch. mid/highs amp in my SUV. My current sub amp (1700RMS rated, closer to 1000RMS lol), is powered by an off brand 1100CCA deep cycle, 130a aftermarket alternator (stock size), and the big 3 up front. In the rear, I have a Kinitek HC600 850a battery cell, 1ft. wire length from my amp. Further up the line (maybe 3ft.) from the Kinitek, is a dist. block that brings the two 2ga. runs from battery down to one 1/0ga. My question is, would it take away from the voltage to my sub amp if I wired the power to the 360.4 directly from the cell? Or would it draw straight from the battery if I was to connect it to the dist. block further up the line? The current block only has 3, 1/0ga. (2/0 w/ adapter ring) input/outputs so I would have to purchase a new one to connect it there. I would be willing to do this if it would mean more power to my sub amp but if there isn't any difference, I would just use a ring terminal and connect to the cell. Seems to me that no matter where I connect to in the line, it would draw from my rear cell, anyone have any input? Thanks in advance! Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_paralyzed_ Posted October 22, 2014 Report Share Posted October 22, 2014 You have munch to learn. Never mention the CCA of a battery. We are only concerned with the Amp Hours.A kinetic battery is a dry cell battery, I'm not sure what you mean by calling it an 850A cell. Most batteries have 6 cells.They're called batteries not cells. You referring to your rear battery as your rear cell makes no sense.You have an electrical system. The battery(ies) and the alternator(s) work together to give you the maximum voltage and amperage possible in your system. It doesn't matter where you hook what amp, you only have so much power available. Hooking up your 4 channel will pull power from the system whether you hook it up straight to the battery or anywhere along the line.You're right on the edge with your particular system as to whether or not you have enough power to add another amp and not sacrifice any power to your sub amp, but it doesn't matter where you hook up your 4 channel amp, it will take the same amount of power where ever it is hooked up. Voltage drop is what you need to monitor to know whether or not your electrical system is up to the task of big audio. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIDE SHOW Posted October 22, 2014 Report Share Posted October 22, 2014 interesting about the cca of a battery & amp hours Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_paralyzed_ Posted October 22, 2014 Report Share Posted October 22, 2014 interesting about the cca of a battery & amp hours I'm simplifying things for clearer discussion. It's just easier for everyone involved to keep it to amp hours. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted October 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2014 You have munch to learn. Never mention the CCA of a battery. We are only concerned with the Amp Hours. A kinetic battery is a dry cell battery, I'm not sure what you mean by calling it an 850A cell. Most batteries have 6 cells. They're called batteries not cells. You referring to your rear battery as your rear cell makes no sense. You have an electrical system. The battery(ies) and the alternator(s) work together to give you the maximum voltage and amperage possible in your system. It doesn't matter where you hook what amp, you only have so much power available. Hooking up your 4 channel will pull power from the system whether you hook it up straight to the battery or anywhere along the line. You're right on the edge with your particular system as to whether or not you have enough power to add another amp and not sacrifice any power to your sub amp, but it doesn't matter where you hook up your 4 channel amp, it will take the same amount of power where ever it is hooked up. Voltage drop is what you need to monitor to know whether or not your electrical system is up to the task of big audio. I referred to it as that because the label and box call it a "battery power cell". I used the lingo that was supplied with the product so if it's wrong, they have a lot to learn not me. I appreciate the information but I am smarter than that and don't like being condescended, sorry. As for the CCA vs. amp hours, I was not aware of the difference. I will have to look tomorrow at the amp hours rating on my battery (if it has it on the label). If it's all the same hooking it to the rear battery, a ring terminal is cheaper and easier than a new dist. block. My voltage is at 14v steady at full tilt right now, with this Hifonics POS. Before I add another sub and a 2.5k I plan on getting another HC600 and a larger battery for under the hood. Recently learned a Yellow Top isn't optimal for this so open to suggestions on that..... Also, many people have used UPS unit batteries for banks and had great success. I have a very large, brand new UPS unit here that I may try and use. Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_paralyzed_ Posted October 22, 2014 Report Share Posted October 22, 2014 You mean to say, "I don't like to be talked to in a condescending tone". One person cannot condescend another person. I'm just sharing info, and had no intention to make you feel one way or another. Not that I haven't been condescending ever, sure I have, we're all human, but in this example I wasn't. Kinetik is wrong in calling it a cell. It is a battery containing six 2 volt cells in series giving us a 12 volt battery. UPS batteries are just AGM batteries labeled for use in an UPS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted October 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2014 You mean to say, "I don't like to be talked to in a condescending tone". One person cannot condescend another person. I'm just sharing info, and had no intention to make you feel one way or another. Not that I haven't been condescending ever, sure I have, we're all human, but in this example I wasn't. Kinetik is wrong in calling it a cell. It is a battery containing six 2 volt cells in series giving us a 12 volt battery. UPS batteries are just AGM batteries labeled for use in an UPS. Well grammar aside, if it's just an AGM battery, it all comes down to amperage. I will first look the specs up and see if the battery is even worth pulling the unit apart for. Beyond that, how many amps would it takes to sustain a decent voltage, with a 3k RMS power draw? Would two HC600's and an XS Power under the hood give enough amps to keep voltage up? I do not want to under power anything and ruin it, would rather get enough amperage to begin with.... Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_paralyzed_ Posted October 22, 2014 Report Share Posted October 22, 2014 I would say have 50Ah per 1000 Wrms. That's all batteries in the system combined, it doesn't matter whether they are front or rear. So, in your example, for 3000Wrms my suggestion is 150Ah worth of batteries. Those little HC600's are only 20Ah. You'd need 8 of them. You want a bigger alternator too to step up to 3000wrms. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted October 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2014 Like this under the hood? http://www.ebay.com/itm/XS-Power-D975-12-Volt-Deep-Cycle-AGM-Power-Cell-Car-Battery-with-2100-Max-Amps-/301355987892?pt=US_Car_Audio_Video_Capacitors&hash=item462a3773b4&vxp=mtr Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted October 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2014 Like this under the hood? http://www.ebay.com/itm/XS-Power-D975-12-Volt-Deep-Cycle-AGM-Power-Cell-Car-Battery-with-2100-Max-Amps-/301355987892?pt=US_Car_Audio_Video_Capacitors&hash=item462a3773b4&vxp=mtr Only 35Ah. I knew there was a ratio to go by on that, just couldn't find it. If 50Ah per 1k RMS is correct, I can easily configure something now. Thanks for that! Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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