RooTxBeeR Posted October 30, 2014 Report Share Posted October 30, 2014 Ok well from my knowledge, whichever side the port is on, its usually best to have the sub on the opposite side of that. I am doing a a build of a 9515 in a trunk of a Challenger, facing the sub to the trunk and porting into the cabin. The dude wants to know if keeping the sub in the middle would effect it if he wants to do 1 port on a side. On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philrab Posted October 30, 2014 Report Share Posted October 30, 2014 Hopefully someone more experienced will chime in, but my big concern with subwoofer/port placement is always the sub loading directly into the port. That can and does usually cause issues. As long as that isn't occurring (ie, the sub's magnet is facing into/towards the port) you'd probably be okay. Can you post a sketch of the box you have in mind? Last enclosure I built had the sub all the way on the left hand side of the baffle, port going out the right side face of the enclosure. The port was 90 degrees to the sub, haven't had any issues. 2015 Toyota Tacoma Build Thread 2007 Mazda 3; 5000K HID's, Kenwood Excelon KDC-X997, Infinity Reference 6.5 comps in front and coaxials in the rear doors, JL 320.4 four channel, Rab Designs built ported enclosure with an SA12, Kenwood monoblock, Redline Leater shift boot/e-brake boot/center console cover, JBR short shifter/shifter bushings/rear motor mount. Build Thread 1996 Mazda Miata: Kenwood Excelon HU, Alpine speaker in the doors, Clearwater (miata specific) headrest speakers. 1994 Mazda Protege: Kenwood Excelon HU, Infinity Reference 2 ways all around, 2x RF Punch 10's in ported boxes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe X Posted October 30, 2014 Report Share Posted October 30, 2014 Sub needs to be reasonably away from the inner end of the port, that's really important. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTxBeeR Posted October 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2014 The top left is port, bottom right is sub, would having the sub in the middle of that baffle make a difference? I want to try and get 2 ports, one on either side with sub in the middle, but he wants one big ass port on the side. On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thefourth Posted October 30, 2014 Report Share Posted October 30, 2014 The top left is port, bottom right is sub, would having the sub in the middle of that baffle make a difference? I want to try and get 2 ports, one on either side with port in the middle, but he wants one big ass port. I've pondered this myself a few times. Tuned for some answers Thanks alaskanzx5 I might just do thatI can recone a sub myself. About a year ago I took 2 12" power acoustic mofos and made one sub. I took the magnet and the motor off of one and j b welded it to the other motor and magnet. I had to wind my own voice coil so it would work. After I was done hooked up to 2 boss 5000w amps. And shattered my back and all my side windows came to this thread to recommend soundqubed and ct sounds. OP goes with soundstream. oh lawd. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hispls Posted October 30, 2014 Report Share Posted October 30, 2014 At some point you're splitting hairs about sub and port position on the box. Some changes will be audible, most will not. From my experience using the same box but just changing the position of the woofer on the baffle was a few tenths of a dB which is definitely inaudible. Now keeping port far enough away from obstructions seems more dramatic as does which direction you aim it, and if you fire sub or port back, distance from the back of the drunk can be noticeable. Assuming same power and subs, I've never personally got more than + or - 1.5 dB by just changing the direction of the port or position of subs on the box (this is assuming a daily/music type application) Other fundamentals are more important IMO, like having enough clearance around each opening of the port, having plenty of port area (and decent ratio of width to height), adequate thickness and bracing to prevent any flex, and of course tuning to the sub and your tastes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTxBeeR Posted October 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2014 Yeah this is taking into account that everything else is set and in a good position, just wondering what the ultimate difference would be between the pic i posted, and then the same thing with the sub just in the middle. But, I need more port than a 8" aero can give me, and that's fucking huge. So I might end up having to do dual ports regardless. On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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