reedal Posted November 19, 2014 Report Posted November 19, 2014 if you've done big three with 1/0 or larger wire, bare metal chassis ground there and at the back, and fused at each end of that long battery run, i dont see any issues. im not so sure that the "child seat strap" bolt is a bare metal chassis ground though, but i could be wrong. pics of all ground points? SMD Tool Map https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/193176-smd-tool-map-new-november-2014/ Build log https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/197217-reeds-03-tahoe-hat-sqaq-singer-xs-shca-cockbox-80prs/?page=32
Broke_Audio_Addict Posted November 19, 2014 Report Posted November 19, 2014 Try running a ground from your front batt to the rear ones and then just ground your amps to the rear batts also get some fuses on those wires man. That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals.
SPL.Pantie.Soak Posted November 19, 2014 Report Posted November 19, 2014 Try running a ground from your front batt to the rear ones and then just ground your amps to the rear batts also get some fuses on those wires man. Thats what I do and it works fine, more wire but hey, who said this stuff was cheap? Kenwood KVT-614 (4) Marathon 155 AH batts 2/0 OFC SHCA Mechman 370 (2) Audioque 3500.1 (2) AA Mayhem 15s
Power_Man Posted November 20, 2014 Author Report Posted November 20, 2014 My main concern was my rear ground. I figured seeing it was a "safety" spot it was thick metal. I picked that point because it was short. I was going by the old rule of keeping your ground as short as possible, but running a ground from front to rear batteries crossed my mind. Does that still apply or just make sure it's a big ground wire?
Broke_Audio_Addict Posted November 20, 2014 Report Posted November 20, 2014 The bigger the better but at least the same size as your positive run as a minimum. That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals.
rockFord_Expedition Posted November 20, 2014 Report Posted November 20, 2014 The idea of running a ground wire is to give the best possible return path to your alternator. So yes, a short run of thick quality wire is ideal, but not to a less than optimal ground location. When you think of a short ground wire, think of short as meaning the shortest return path to the alternator. Wherever your ground wire attaches to the vehicle, just picture the current trying to flow back to your alternator through that spot. Frame/Chassis is always ideal. The less paint or welds or any other type of "current speed bump" it has to travel through the better. Old School/New School RF Build March 2015 SOTM Winner How to crimp large wire
Power_Man Posted November 20, 2014 Author Report Posted November 20, 2014 That is why wiring confuses the SHIT! Out of me. So confused I don't know how to type it. I will take some more 2/0 cable and run from my amp ground/rear battery grounding location down to the Frame. Thanks again all.
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