Hanger bolts for mounting sub to baffle

[hdorre]

^^ What n8 said lol.. I just used Spax #14 multi material construction screws. They were like 2 1/2" long.. that or 2 1/4"

[Kyblack76]

Thanks.

Some of us have "been around". Weve heard of "extra steps"

No thanks.

I'll stick with god deck screws. Nothing more.

[Revdoc]

For those who say it's overcomplicated, you're probably right. Screws would have worked fine. I appreciate the sentiment as a "KISS" type of person, but I'm already started down this rabbit hole so lets see how it ends up.

Do yourself a favor if you do this, use a drill press or at least a piece of MDF with a pre-drilled hole as a guide to keep your holes square with the baffle. I didn't and my studs all tilt slightly upward, no big deal as you won't see them and the sub still drops into place without binding.

I used a stack of a nut, washer, then another nut to install these. Put a small socket on the outermost nut and turn it against the washer, it will drive the screw in. Then a sharp tap on the wrench will loosen just the nut and you can put the nut/washer/nut setup on the next stud for install.

http://i.imgur.com/T8FwmWf.jpg

With the sub sitting in the baffle: http://i.imgur.com/srdp0Pt.jpg

Another tip: measure the holes in the basket of the sub before you purchase hardware. I bought 5/16 outer dia. spacers and find out that the PSi basket has a 5/16 screw hole, spacers fall right through them. Luckily I had some #10 washers that fit.

The bits referenced by Triticum were helpful, I found a Kobalt version at Lowes but it was called a "hinge bit" for installing door hinges.

Also, I think I will try to skip the spacer and put the nut and washer directly on the rim of the sub, under the rubber gasket. The only problem will be pulling the rubber gasket up over the stud to hide it after installing the nut and washer, I hope I don't tear the gasket.

PS: please keep ridicule about the box polite, I am sensitive

[jakmagic]

I was recommended SPAX screws and until I come across something better, those are all that I will use. The threads are very aggressive and not spaced too close together. They are just like deck screws but more aggressive. AJ a member on here recommended them to me and until something better comes out, those are the ones for me.

[alaskanzx5]

I've used those exact same bolts before op.

I work at a car audio/furniture store. The Amish (yeah we all know the truth) use those to hold a good portion of the table tops on. And keys just say that the bases get heavy and those books hold up just fine.

They did fishery to put in at one point. I used 2 nuts to screw it in ( locked the nuts up against each other ). Worked just fine. To get the extra but of put a wrench on birth and turn them away from each other.

A truck I've seen with t nuts is to put a short word screw on the edge of each one. Holds them right down in place.

[Revdoc]

Ok, subs are mounted and the box is in the car. Sounds okay for now, can't wait to get the XS Power D925s I have ordered and hook up the AQ 3500D.1. I'm currently powering them with an Audiopipe 1800 and they barely move.

Some more pics of the spacers installed and then the sub mounted with nuts and everything:

http://imgur.com/a/kXmHU

I ended up using 3/8" steel spacers from Lowes, they were zinc plated and nice looking. They only had 11 in stock so I had to get 5 more at Ace Hardware, these were raw steel finish and were not solid all the way around. I'll replace them with the nice ones from Lowes when I get a chance. I had to drill out the rubber gasket on the subs to make it fit these larger spacers but it looks pretty good when it's all mounted up, the washer covers any small imperfections in the rubber gasket. If I had installed my studs nice and square I think my setup would look perfect, as is I'm okay with it.