Hanger bolts for mounting sub to baffle

[Revdoc]

Has anyone tried using hanger bolts to mount the sub to the front baffle? http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-10-24-x-2-in-Coarse-Standard-Steel-Plain-Hanger-Bolt-4-per-Pack-809311/204273739

I know I will need to remove my subs later for various reasons so I want to try something other than wood screws. I spent the afternoon hitting the hardware stores and got some 2" hanger bolts just like the pic below, along with aluminum spacers so the nut will sit right at the top of the rubber gasket of the sub. Then I got black oxide nuts and lock washers to cover up the bright aluminum.

Why not hurricane nuts or T-nuts? I have heard horror stories of T-nuts spinning, and supposedly hurricane nuts can split and swell the MDF when installed. Both are also easy to crossthread. With this setup if the nut seizes to the bolt the worst that happens is the screw portion just unscrews itself from the baffle.

So, anyone tried this before? Maybe there's a reason this won't work and I'm just not seeing it? I plan to put glue on the wood screw threads and some kind of antiseize on the bolt threads. I'm not real happy with a lock washer on top but they didn't have nylon stop washers in black.

Also, any tips for making sure you hit dead center on each screw hole? I really want these to line up well with the sub basket.

[zack_e89]

interesting idea on those hanger bolts, would like to see how it turns out

as far as lining up the holes on the sub basket, you could mock up the sub and use a sharpie to mark where your holes are

[Triticum Agricolam]

I'm curious to hear how those work out for you. I would think they should be fine. I've been through hurricane nuts, thread-in inserts, barbed inserts, you name it. Now I'm using #10 pan head wood screws, but nothing is really exactly what I want. I'd love to find some of the socket head wood screws that Rockford Fosgate includes with their subs, but so far no luck.

To get the hole centered perfectly you could use something like these: http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-CC2430-Clic-Change-Self-Centering-Assortment/dp/B0000TZX1M They are what I use to get the holes exactly where they need to be and they work perfectly every time. I just drill out the hole they make to a larger size if needed.

[mrd6]

Only issue I could see is if you are trying to mount heavy subs in a vertical baffle (wall type mounting). It might be really difficult to slide the sub perfectly over all of the hanger bolts with the heavy ass motor throwing things off. If you tried to put the subs in or pull them out and they or the bolts themselves were at all cocked to one side you'll be catching the basket on all the threads...might not be that bad in reality though, give it a shot! If it works well I might be doing the same thing shortly.

[Cameronmyers74]

Has anyone tried using hanger bolts to mount the sub to the front baffle? http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-10-24-x-2-in-Coarse-Standard-Steel-Plain-Hanger-Bolt-4-per-Pack-809311/204273739

I know I will need to remove my subs later for various reasons so I want to try something other than wood screws. I spent the afternoon hitting the hardware stores and got some 2" hanger bolts just like the pic below, along with aluminum spacers so the nut will sit right at the top of the rubber gasket of the sub. Then I got black oxide nuts and lock washers to cover up the bright aluminum.

Why not hurricane nuts or T-nuts? I have heard horror stories of T-nuts spinning, and supposedly hurricane nuts can split and swell the MDF when installed. Both are also easy to crossthread. With this setup if the nut seizes to the bolt the worst that happens is the screw portion just unscrews itself from the baffle.

So, anyone tried this before? Maybe there's a reason this won't work and I'm just not seeing it? I plan to put glue on the wood screw threads and some kind of antiseize on the bolt threads. I'm not real happy with a lock washer on top but they didn't have nylon stop washers in black.

Also, any tips for making sure you hit dead center on each screw hole? I really want these to line up well with the sub basket.

On my new enclosure I just built I had the t-nut spinning on me when I was trying to take the sub out and it was a pain to get the bolt out. So if this works out I will be switching to this:) Hope it works!

[Tecomah]

I may do this in my wall ..... Hmm

[philrab]

1/4" hurricane nuts and grade 8 bolts/socket head cap screws for me. This should work out nicely as long as you can keep the fuckers from spinning their way out if you remove the nuts (I'm assuming you'd use nuts on the threaded portion.)

[Triticum Agricolam]

1/4" hurricane nuts and grade 8 bolts/socket head cap screws for me. This should work out nicely as long as you can keep the fuckers from spinning their way out if you remove the nuts (I'm assuming you'd use nuts on the threaded portion.)

Those things are great, until you cross-thread one and the nut comes loose from the baffle, then you will hate your life. They are really easy to cross-thread too.

[n8ball2013]

Stop over complicating things

[mothra]

for all the guys having issues with the T-nut coming loose on the baffle, here is an extra step when putting them in. before you put it in place you should put some sort of adhesive on the base where that will contact with the baffle. I use a thick viscosity of CA glue than place the T-nut where I want it. this has saved me since I first ran into the same issue of the t-nut not holding it's place after several uses. since i've done this, i've never had a t-nut not hold in place.