Guest Posted December 27, 2014 Report Posted December 27, 2014 Either way, all peel and seal is good for is mass loading. It's not designed to be used for audio, or the interior of anything, let alone a car. And I have not used it, but I know plenty who have. One of my good buddies lost about 60% of the material he put on his rear deck/trunk lid. Came off after just one day of 85 degree weather, and we live in Seattle. He got used to the smell being in his car, but every time I got in it smelled like somebody had just laid fresh asphalt on his back seat. The smell doesn't go away, u just build a tolerance. Either way, op, please do not buy, use, or recommend peel and seal for any reason unless u have a roof problem. Not a road worth hiking up. I'm afraid I disagree. It is a mass loader and lots of low end sound deadeners do that same thing. Peel and seal may be designed for roofs but that does not mean it cannot be used for car audio. Less unwanted road/car noise and more midbass. Maybe your buddy failed to clean the surface with an alcohol before applying the peel and seal. And again, I reiterate, I have no smell or peeling and Florida weather is wayyy more harsh than Seattle. I would use it again it I needed to.
Guest Posted December 27, 2014 Report Posted December 27, 2014 Yea I was thinking about just using the fatmat base then expanding foam to seal it off. But I had been wondering if the wood idea had been used before by anyone on here. Guess ima have to try it out see how it goes. Thanks for the feedback guys really helps. Fatmat is basically peel n seal, but it is a little more expensive. That is why I reccomend p/s/ over fatmat. It works wonders for a tight budget. I found it helps to spray the peel n seal with a rubberized spray after the p/s is applied. The rubber spray smell takes it bit longer to go away but it helps a lot, and plus, if you are worried about the p/s coming off, this will help it stick even more. Good luck
CstrokerV Posted December 27, 2014 Report Posted December 27, 2014 REGULAR FAT MAT IS NOT BUTYLE BASED ... LET ME REPEAT IT REGULAR FAT MAT IS NOT BUTYLE BASED .. AND IT SUCKS ASS COMPARED TO A REAL DEADNER...... they have one that is and its only a few bucks less then second skin.... if you do deaden make sure you get a good deadner not fatmat there is a few quality butyle base ones... my build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/142505-small-build-log-4-dc-lvl3-10s-tl-update-link-to-rebuild/ http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/154258-rebuild-6-lvl3-12s-update-small-video-nothing-spectacular/ new build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/188181-03-trailblazer-slow-build-8-dc-lvl3-12-m1-motor-m2-parts/
MrSkippyJ Posted December 27, 2014 Report Posted December 27, 2014 REGULAR FAT MAT IS NOT BUTYLE BASED ... LET ME REPEAT IT REGULAR FAT MAT IS NOT BUTYLE BASED .. AND IT SUCKS ASS COMPARED TO A REAL DEADNER...... they have one that is and its only a few bucks less then second skin.... OP listen to this guy. avoid peal and seal, leave it for the roof of your house as it is designed to be used. Ignore anyone who suggests you use peal and seal in your car. F150: Stock 2019 Harley Road Glide: Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt Processor: DSR1 Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx Lid (Rear) 6x9s - TMS69
CstrokerV Posted December 27, 2014 Report Posted December 27, 2014 By the way yes ive used fatmat never again.....it wasnt worrh the money i paid for it .. it stunk.. all of it didnt stay in place and it shrunk ... it just sucks ass my build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/142505-small-build-log-4-dc-lvl3-10s-tl-update-link-to-rebuild/ http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/154258-rebuild-6-lvl3-12s-update-small-video-nothing-spectacular/ new build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/188181-03-trailblazer-slow-build-8-dc-lvl3-12-m1-motor-m2-parts/
Guest Posted December 28, 2014 Report Posted December 28, 2014 REGULAR FAT MAT IS NOT BUTYLE BASED ... LET ME REPEAT IT REGULAR FAT MAT IS NOT BUTYLE BASED .. AND IT SUCKS ASS COMPARED TO A REAL DEADNER...... they have one that is and its only a few bucks less then second skin.... if you do deaden make sure you get a good deadner not fatmat there is a few quality butyle base ones... I forgot to mention that! That is why I say use peel n seal over fatmat IF you insist to save money and not buy real sound deadening. Thanks for the comment!!
CstrokerV Posted December 28, 2014 Report Posted December 28, 2014 I would use nothing before i would use fat mat or anything like it again... my build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/142505-small-build-log-4-dc-lvl3-10s-tl-update-link-to-rebuild/ http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/154258-rebuild-6-lvl3-12s-update-small-video-nothing-spectacular/ new build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/188181-03-trailblazer-slow-build-8-dc-lvl3-12-m1-motor-m2-parts/
Miguels Posted December 28, 2014 Report Posted December 28, 2014 i wont use either of them my logshttp://www.stevemead...-my-new-set-up/my blow through loghttp://www.stevemead...future-updates/ 96 ss http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/164094-96-impala-ss-build/
jakmagic Posted December 28, 2014 Report Posted December 28, 2014 I would give Qmat a try. You can get it off amazon or Soundqubed for a very reasonable price. The bulk packages offer even better deals. It would prolly perform way better than Fatmat and last twice as long. It is also more appealing to the look. When I decide to add more deadner to my ride, Qmat will most likely be what I purchase. 97 Buick LeSabre with stock 140 amp alternator XS Power D3400 (under the hood) using pdb distro blocks Big 3 done with 2/0 ga welding cable Alpine CDE-HD149BT head unit CT Sounds Meso 6.5" components CT Sounds 60.4 CT Sounds 1400.1 Fi Q 12 D2 with cooling in 2.5 net tuned @32 hz (box built by Sound Mekanix Customs) Bunch of Sky High 1/0 ga & 4 ga cable (plus fuse holders) Connection BT2 & BT4 550 (Audison) RCA's Bunch of Mojo Mat
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