Tyler Clutz Posted January 16, 2015 Report Posted January 16, 2015 I built myself a 4th order for a sundown audio e12d4. Right now it's just wood and screws and it sounds pretty good. I used 13-ply 3/4" birch. What should I do to seal the box up? I've heard fiberglass resin but I also heard birch doesn't need it. Also how would I seal the top to make it somewhat removable?
n8ball2013 Posted January 16, 2015 Report Posted January 16, 2015 Did you use any glue THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger.
Tyler Clutz Posted January 16, 2015 Author Report Posted January 16, 2015 none at all, just wood and screws. i just wanted to throw it together to make sure everything worked.
Triticum Agricolam Posted January 16, 2015 Report Posted January 16, 2015 Take the screws out, apply glue, screw it back together. You can use silicone in place of wood glue for the top panel, that way you can get it back apart to get the sub out at some point. Looks good. What are the specs on it? "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds:
Tyler Clutz Posted January 16, 2015 Author Report Posted January 16, 2015 what kind of glue should i get? This is my first box.
SlamminBeats Posted January 16, 2015 Report Posted January 16, 2015 titebond II why is there a speaker wire going through the port.. also that box is straight digging that seat. Why not just do things right. You have like double work now
hoit Posted January 16, 2015 Report Posted January 16, 2015 big dispute around here for Titebond II vs. III (disclaimer, this is NOT a vs. thread! lol) sometimes doing things the hard way is the best way to learn. (unfortunately!) what doesn't kill you.... 2007 Chevy Aveo Ls sedan 2 Sundown Xv2 on scv4k @ .5 ohm 2 pair RE XXX 6.5 components on sax200.4 @ 2 ohm Big Three, Three runs 1/0 power from front to back, 1 ground front to back Two runs ground from rear bank to chassis XS power d3100 upfront, 3 Odyssey 2150s in bank Singer 220 amp alt
Triticum Agricolam Posted January 16, 2015 Report Posted January 16, 2015 Like others have said, Titebond I, II, or III will all get the job done well. How did you come up with that design? In the picture it shows the recommended specs as 2 cubes sealed, 1 ported at about 49 Hz. However you have 1 cube sealed and 2.5 ported at 45 Hz. You are going to end up with a giant peak in your response at 40 Hz with nothing above or below that. "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds:
CleanSierra Posted January 16, 2015 Report Posted January 16, 2015 That box looks very similar to one I did for a Fosgate P2 10" sub and it had great range. It just didn't have much output due to it being a 300W 10" sub. For my bandpass boxes, if I want to have a removable lid(like my current blowthrough 4th order), I use this stuff: I'm not sure you can see it but it's a foam/rubber type of steal with one side that is sticky and once you've applied pressure, it sticks to that wood really well for a tight seal. It looks like this: Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you.
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.