PaulPumpsBass Posted January 17, 2015 Report Posted January 17, 2015 I'm looking to run 16v batteries for my sub amps. I already have (2) 12v batteries under the hood of my car and a high output 12v alternator. If I get new, additional 16v high output alternators and just add them to my current setup and multiple 1/0 gauge runs back to my 16v battery bank, would I run into any issues? This seems like the easiest way for me to run a 16v battery bank and not mess with my 12v system. I'll just use the 12v system for my mids/highs amps and the 16v bank for my sub amps. Does this seem right to everyone, or would I run into problems that I'm not expecting right now? 1994 Mazda RX7 with LS1 Swap and 2 - 10" Kicker L7's in Truck Boxes (because of extremely limited hatch space) 2003 GMC Yukon XL with 3 - 12" MTX 9500's and still has the third row seat (over 7.5 cu ft of enclosures behind third row) 1971 Chevrolet Nova with LS1 Swap (work in progress, most likely 4 - 12" Alpine Type R's as I already have them) 1961 Chevrolet Corvette Restomod with LS7 Swap (system upgrade will be one of the first things that I'll do) Solo Basshead For The Most Part, None Of My Close Friends Have A Passion For It, Nor The Money For It. If I'm Home And Free... Always Looking To Meet Up With A Fellow Enthusiast To Talk Shop Or Do Demos! Hard To Find Fellow Bassheads (Not Crack or Heroin Addicts, I Can Find Them Everywhere) In Baltimore / Mid-Atlantic / DMV areas.
OldsBoomer Posted January 17, 2015 Report Posted January 17, 2015 Yea you are right. You can run 16v for sub stage and 12v for midst and highs stage. That's exactly what I was going to use. What you can't do is ground the 16v batteries to the frame. You need to ground them to the 16v alt. That's what I was told. Suburban Coming Soon
808faka Posted January 17, 2015 Report Posted January 17, 2015 Yea you are right. You can run 16v for sub stage and 12v for midst and highs stage. That's exactly what I was going to use. What you can't do is ground the 16v batteries to the frame. You need to ground them to the 16v alt. That's what I was told. any more insight on why you cant ground to the frame?? i have my 16 volt batt bank grounded to the frame and runs coming from the engine block which has ground runs to my 2 16 volt regulated alts mounting bolts. it works just fine but i have a loud alternator whine when i switch on my two 16 volt alts. maybe thats why?? OP the way you described is the easiest way and i run it like that as well.
PaulPumpsBass Posted January 17, 2015 Author Report Posted January 17, 2015 Yea you are right. You can run 16v for sub stage and 12v for midst and highs stage. That's exactly what I was going to use. What you can't do is ground the 16v batteries to the frame. You need to ground them to the 16v alt. That's what I was told. Yea you are right. You can run 16v for sub stage and 12v for midst and highs stage. That's exactly what I was going to use. What you can't do is ground the 16v batteries to the frame. You need to ground them to the 16v alt. That's what I was told. any more insight on why you cant ground to the frame?? i have my 16 volt batt bank grounded to the frame and runs coming from the engine block which has ground runs to my 2 16 volt regulated alts mounting bolts. it works just fine but i have a loud alternator whine when i switch on my two 16 volt alts. maybe thats why?? OP the way you described is the easiest way and i run it like that as well. I guess I didn't put it in the original post. But I wouldn't need like a voltage stepdown or voltage regulator or anything right? Because I'd just run the 1/0 gauge runs directly from the alternators to the 16v bank in the back. I'm really just wondering if it's as simple as that, or if I'd need to add anything else to the system to make it work. 1994 Mazda RX7 with LS1 Swap and 2 - 10" Kicker L7's in Truck Boxes (because of extremely limited hatch space) 2003 GMC Yukon XL with 3 - 12" MTX 9500's and still has the third row seat (over 7.5 cu ft of enclosures behind third row) 1971 Chevrolet Nova with LS1 Swap (work in progress, most likely 4 - 12" Alpine Type R's as I already have them) 1961 Chevrolet Corvette Restomod with LS7 Swap (system upgrade will be one of the first things that I'll do) Solo Basshead For The Most Part, None Of My Close Friends Have A Passion For It, Nor The Money For It. If I'm Home And Free... Always Looking To Meet Up With A Fellow Enthusiast To Talk Shop Or Do Demos! Hard To Find Fellow Bassheads (Not Crack or Heroin Addicts, I Can Find Them Everywhere) In Baltimore / Mid-Atlantic / DMV areas.
808faka Posted January 17, 2015 Report Posted January 17, 2015 Yea you are right. You can run 16v for sub stage and 12v for midst and highs stage. That's exactly what I was going to use. What you can't do is ground the 16v batteries to the frame. You need to ground them to the 16v alt. That's what I was told. Yea you are right. You can run 16v for sub stage and 12v for midst and highs stage. That's exactly what I was going to use. What you can't do is ground the 16v batteries to the frame. You need to ground them to the 16v alt. That's what I was told. any more insight on why you cant ground to the frame?? i have my 16 volt batt bank grounded to the frame and runs coming from the engine block which has ground runs to my 2 16 volt regulated alts mounting bolts. it works just fine but i have a loud alternator whine when i switch on my two 16 volt alts. maybe thats why?? OP the way you described is the easiest way and i run it like that as well. I guess I didn't put it in the original post. But I wouldn't need like a voltage stepdown or voltage regulator or anything right? Because I'd just run the 1/0 gauge runs directly from the alternators to the 16v bank in the back. I'm really just wondering if it's as simple as that, or if I'd need to add anything else to the system to make it work. i have my runs from my 16 volt alts going straight to the battery bank in the rear. you wont need a stepdown if you have 2 seperate charging systems like one alt for the 12 volt side to run the car and mids n highs, and then the 16 volt side for the bass, its really that simple. my alts are all externally regulated by boxes so i can adjust my voltage anytime i need. thats the only thing you would have to add if you went with adjustable voltage alts.
2loud4uboyz Posted January 17, 2015 Report Posted January 17, 2015 I have a question about running 16 volt batteryr. Sorry not thread dumbing real question. First on the 12 volt side ,when engine running that will make it 14 volts right ? O.k the real question is the 16 volt battery stays at 16volt when engine running only because of the adjust voltage regulator right. I would think with out that it would be running at 18 volts . Sorry just trying to understand . Shit gets real 0n 16 volts for sure amps come alive like a mad bitch on crack.
PaulPumpsBass Posted January 17, 2015 Author Report Posted January 17, 2015 I have a question about running 16 volt batteryr. Sorry not thread dumbing real question. First on the 12 volt side ,when engine running that will make it 14 volts right ? O.k the real question is the 16 volt battery stays at 16volt when engine running only because of the adjust voltage regulator right. I would think with out that it would be running at 18 volts . Sorry just trying to understand . Shit gets real 0n 16 volts for sure amps come alive like a mad bitch on crack. I have a question about running 16 volt batteryr. Sorry not thread dumbing real question. First on the 12 volt side ,when engine running that will make it 14 volts right ? O.k the real question is the 16 volt battery stays at 16volt when engine running only because of the adjust voltage regulator right. I would think with out that it would be running at 18 volts . Sorry just trying to understand . Shit gets real 0n 16 volts for sure amps come alive like a mad bitch on crack. The batteries that I'm getting have a resting/floating voltage of 17.2v... with a charge it should take them into the mid 17v or 18v range would be my guess. 1994 Mazda RX7 with LS1 Swap and 2 - 10" Kicker L7's in Truck Boxes (because of extremely limited hatch space) 2003 GMC Yukon XL with 3 - 12" MTX 9500's and still has the third row seat (over 7.5 cu ft of enclosures behind third row) 1971 Chevrolet Nova with LS1 Swap (work in progress, most likely 4 - 12" Alpine Type R's as I already have them) 1961 Chevrolet Corvette Restomod with LS7 Swap (system upgrade will be one of the first things that I'll do) Solo Basshead For The Most Part, None Of My Close Friends Have A Passion For It, Nor The Money For It. If I'm Home And Free... Always Looking To Meet Up With A Fellow Enthusiast To Talk Shop Or Do Demos! Hard To Find Fellow Bassheads (Not Crack or Heroin Addicts, I Can Find Them Everywhere) In Baltimore / Mid-Atlantic / DMV areas.
Miguels Posted January 17, 2015 Report Posted January 17, 2015 wouldnt it be cheaper to just upgrade the amp? save the headache and just buy a bigger amp 16v batteries have less reserve/storage capabilities over a 12v. you will need to buy more to the the job that less 12v would do. 16v create bigger sparks when shit goes wrong. you will be $2000 to $3000 deep trying to add 16v system in your car. i honestly dont recommended unless your are competing and need every single watt. and even then if there is the option of getting a bigger amp i would get it before going to 16v system. what amp you have now? with $3000 you can get a 7.5k amp 3 group 31. and have money left over to screw around my logshttp://www.stevemead...-my-new-set-up/my blow through loghttp://www.stevemead...future-updates/ 96 ss http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/164094-96-impala-ss-build/
Kyblack76 Posted January 17, 2015 Report Posted January 17, 2015 16v bats need a 18v charge. Yea you are right. You can run 16v for sub stage and 12v for midst and highs stage. That's exactly what I was going to use. What you can't do is ground the 16v batteries to the frame. You need to ground them to the 16v alt. That's what I was told. And that makes zero sense. SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold
808faka Posted January 17, 2015 Report Posted January 17, 2015 16v bats need a 18v charge. Yea you are right. You can run 16v for sub stage and 12v for midst and highs stage. That's exactly what I was going to use. What you can't do is ground the 16v batteries to the frame. You need to ground them to the 16v alt. That's what I was told. And that makes zero sense. kyblack76 do you think having grounds to the frame and coming from alt mounting bolts going to my 16v battery bank be a reason for alternator whine??
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