m0rtin Posted January 30, 2015 Report Share Posted January 30, 2015 i just upgraded my subwoofer setup at the end of november last year. went from 1 x alpine type X to 2 x rf p3s both powered by 1 kicker zx 1000.1 with a 4 gauge wiring kit. the p3s bumped clean for the first month with always playing at max/clean volume. but after 30 minutes at full blast the bass shorts out for a second or 2 depending on the heavy low bass notes. but now even on heavy bass tracks it would short out more often n i would have to turn the volume down. am i experiencing voltage drop? my electrical is all stock. would a big 3 upgrade fix this problem without having to upgrade new alternator, extra batteries, capacitors? all i need is to run + wire from the battery to the alternator with inline fuse n 2 ground wires to the chassis of the car? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
betweenmatt Posted January 30, 2015 Report Share Posted January 30, 2015 check the amp with a dmm to see how much the voltage is dropping. what do you mean by the bass shorts out? does the bass just stop playing completely? or are the subs doing this weird wiggle looking thing. imo(feel free for anyone to correct me) this sounds more like another problem - that wouldn't be fixed with the big 3. have your gains been set right? you could be putting the amp into protect mode. Have you checked all the connections? i guess it could be possible the vibrations are making something come loose. Also from what i understand, it could possibly be that your enclosure is inefficient, so your subs try to play what they want, but because of the inefficiency, they need more power, and the amp is trying to hard to give it. just some suggestions, take them as you may - but first i would for sure measure the voltage with a dmm at the volume that it cuts out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m0rtin Posted January 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2015 when i mean the bass cuts out, before after awhile of bumping at max volume, depending on the song and bass notes, the sub bass would go out for a second or 2 then come back on. or sometimes i would have to lower the volume n the sub bass would continue to play without going out. im not sure what you mean by weird wiggle looking thing but i dont think thats the problem. i have my gains set with a dd1 so it shouldnt be going into protect mode. my connections should be fine as well since its still plays just goes out on heavy low bass notes at high volumes. i got them in a super bass pro ported box n im super satisfied with how it sounds. so im hoping that a big 3 would help with more power flow from amp to the subs for when it needs it at high volumes with heavy bass. i also suffer through dimming headlights (its gotten worse than before) or when im lowering all my windows at the same time while playing music, sub bass goes out while windows r going down but comes back on once the windows r down all the way. dont really wanna go all out with new/extra batteries, alt and caps when im only running a simple 1000 watt sound system set up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockFord_Expedition Posted January 30, 2015 Report Share Posted January 30, 2015 i just upgraded my subwoofer setup at the end of november last year. went from 1 x alpine type X to 2 x rf p3s both powered by 1 kicker zx 1000.1 with a 4 gauge wiring kit. the p3s bumped clean for the first month with always playing at max/clean volume. but after 30 minutes at full blast the bass shorts out for a second or 2 depending on the heavy low bass notes. but now even on heavy bass tracks it would short out more often n i would have to turn the volume down. am i experiencing voltage drop? my electrical is all stock. would a big 3 upgrade fix this problem without having to upgrade new alternator, extra batteries, capacitors? all i need is to run + wire from the battery to the alternator with inline fuse n 2 ground wires to the chassis of the car? A few things OP. First, asking us if youre experiencing voltage drop.. you should check it so you know for fact instead of us guessing, although my guess is yes. The Big 3 will not do any magic tricks but if done right it will help your alternator run to its fullest potential. Is the 1kw kicker the only aftermarket electrical you are running? If you are maxing out your OEM electrical it is good practice to install a reliable voltage meter so you can keep an eye on it while your system is playing. What vehicle are we talking about here? The way I do the big 3 is upgrade grounds from alt case to frame and battery to frame. Then upgrade the charge lead to the battery from the alt. I also add a few more grounds but this is sufficient. Old School/New School RF Build March 2015 SOTM Winner How to crimp large wire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockFord_Expedition Posted January 30, 2015 Report Share Posted January 30, 2015 Oh, and to answer the question in the title of this thread, yes. It is time to do the big 3. It is step one of any installation IMO. Old School/New School RF Build March 2015 SOTM Winner How to crimp large wire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyblack76 Posted January 31, 2015 Report Share Posted January 31, 2015 charge your battery SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gckless Posted January 31, 2015 Report Share Posted January 31, 2015 I doubt it will fix your problem, but it may help. It should be done regardless. "Clipping" is the biggest forum boner now. It's like witchcraft... it automatically explains just about everything people don't understand. My build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/200295-gckless-2011-chevrolet-impala/ High resolution photos: Gilbert Kless Photography Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRON Posted January 31, 2015 Report Share Posted January 31, 2015 You should do the big three even before you know what kind of equipment you're running, it's definitely one of the first you do in aftermarket audio. Avalanche Alpine Type S comps Alpine Type S 10'' Alpine MPR-F300 Alpine MRX-M50 Mechamn 270 XS Power d3400s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FCS530 Posted January 31, 2015 Report Share Posted January 31, 2015 No wrong time to do a big 3! Not a bad idea to do it, even without a system! Can't hurt! Several systems, several vehicles. Always changing! 2013 MECA State Champion (trunk 1) 2014 MECA State Champion (mod 4) 2014 MECA state Champion (Park and Pound 4) 2014 DBDRAG 6th place North America Finals (SS1-2) 2014 BASS RACE 6th place North America Finals (139.9) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noobtastic14 Posted January 31, 2015 Report Share Posted January 31, 2015 Its never to early to do the big 3 BUT the symptoms of your first post lead me towards thermal or short protection due to the amp being wired to low. If you are holding minimum voltage then going over your wiring is next. -Drew You should have dual 2ohm woofers to match that amp. This can be confusing because the Alpine should have been a dual 4 ohm. If you went from one dual 4 alpine to two dual 4 p3s you're going to have a bad time. I am a United States Military Arts and Crafts Professional. Sand it off, Paint it on. uhoh_45 said: dont be a pussy P give the jeep to drew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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