john253a Posted April 29, 2015 Report Share Posted April 29, 2015 why not a quality coaxel in the rear that way the cost is down a bit Then look into 2 for the front What size/rms subs stage are you trying to keep up with As you might get away with a higher quality speaker that will take more power The moral hybrid 602 were on sale last week in $400 price bracket due to new model coming out I've used them in a few installes and they have keeped up nicely but not at full rrp unless it's an sq build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shenker Posted April 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2015 Good idea on the coax in the rear, never thought about doing that. My sub stage is 4 10" Type R's on 4kw RMS (2bc2000d's). I'll take a look at those thanks. -If its loud, fast, outrageous, or all of the above, chances are i'll think its awesome. -"No way he's OCD." -said none of the people that know me ever. 04' Suburban "Lucifer" A.K.A #Lucii (Under Construction) 4 10s on 4kW in 6cu net @~28hz /////Alpine Crescendo KnuKoncepts Optima SHCA Build Thread 92' JDM 325i "Stella" ~Going for sale to build a 350+hp E30~ Gutted pipes 96,000 OG KM's (59,000 mi) -System Removed- 1 10 on 1kW 89' Gen 3 Honda Prelude SI AWS "Odis" Bone Stock Possibly going to stance it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boom50cal Posted April 30, 2015 Report Share Posted April 30, 2015 JBL P660c's aren't too expensive and sound really nice... if you want to up your price range to the $300 bracket, the b2 Audio Ref 6.1's are some of my most favorite sounding drivers... On 1/4/2013 at 9:31 PM, HatersGonnaHate said: Wow. 184 posts and I think you're a fucking asshole. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AIJames Posted April 30, 2015 Report Share Posted April 30, 2015 If you have a limited budget, why not look into some great sounding efficient Drivers. Hertz, focal, illusion audio , even the Rockford line or is wood excelon can be made to sound pretty good. Most of this is going to depend more on your installation. If you buy a 40 dollar or 40,000 dollar comp set and it's installed "janky" you aren't getting what you paid for either way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john253a Posted April 30, 2015 Report Share Posted April 30, 2015 Another option you could look at is the rf pro audio speakers with there crosover That why you buy the gear you want to end up with but add the 2nd midbass when you build the pod Ie you get the pp4x it is designed to run 4ohm midbass drivers with a pass through tweeter So if you install 1x 4ohm midbass,amp sees 4 ohm load, then when you add second 4ohm midbass, amp sees 2 ohm load So you find a amp that delivers 100-125rms @2ohm and run 1x midbass on it till you build your pods Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSkippyJ Posted April 30, 2015 Report Share Posted April 30, 2015 I still think you should go for a pair of quality 6.5s in each door and a single tweeter. It is pretty easy usually to add a tweeter if you need it compared to removing one. I would err on the side of doing to little to start with rather than too much. F150: Stock 2019 Harley Road Glide: Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt Processor: DSR1 Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx Lid (Rear) 6x9s - TMS69 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shenker Posted May 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2015 okay, some great point made. Im going to visit a few local shops and have a listen at some of the products they offer, I know it wont be a real world test such as in a vehicle, but it will at least let me see the different setups. A local shop carries some hertz and focal products as well as some higher end equipment such as RF so ill take a look at some of those although I really think I will go with something sort of "mid range" as far as price is concerned. MrSkippyJ - what would be the best route to take in that case? getting all individual drivers? or should I just buy two full component sets and leave two of the tweeters out until I can hear it playing? I suppose it isn't hard to design the pods with an available space, maybe even with a hidden ring already glassed in for a tweeter and after being tested and before paint, etc, to just drill the hole out and add it in. -If its loud, fast, outrageous, or all of the above, chances are i'll think its awesome. -"No way he's OCD." -said none of the people that know me ever. 04' Suburban "Lucifer" A.K.A #Lucii (Under Construction) 4 10s on 4kW in 6cu net @~28hz /////Alpine Crescendo KnuKoncepts Optima SHCA Build Thread 92' JDM 325i "Stella" ~Going for sale to build a 350+hp E30~ Gutted pipes 96,000 OG KM's (59,000 mi) -System Removed- 1 10 on 1kW 89' Gen 3 Honda Prelude SI AWS "Odis" Bone Stock Possibly going to stance it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSkippyJ Posted May 2, 2015 Report Share Posted May 2, 2015 How you get them really depends on what you are buying. For me I went with 2 component sets and left out a set of tweets because they were the speakers I wanted (this also left me with a spare set of tweets). If you want a certain tweeter and certain 6.5s that weren't components then buy them separate. As far as installing the tweets, no need to permanently mount them until you are happy. Use double sided tape the decide, then once you are happy with where the tweets are and how many you have, THEN work on mounting them permanently. F150: Stock 2019 Harley Road Glide: Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt Processor: DSR1 Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx Lid (Rear) 6x9s - TMS69 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirhutson Posted May 2, 2015 Report Share Posted May 2, 2015 Focal 165AS is the way to go in my opinion. They sound amazing on good power boss 1200 and a ipod nano. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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