757lmj Posted April 27, 2015 Report Posted April 27, 2015 1) is there a different ply I should use then baltic birch? Heard this is best. Have used mdf I don't want that bc of weight 2) I can only get one side without the knots, idk if this will degrade strength or what. Also I can only get WITH the black waterproof glue. Does this matter? I can also get "cabinet grade" 11 ply regular birch ply. They had no other details about it then that 3) for 3 12s in a bandpass, how thick should my box walls be? 1.5 in of baltic ply? (2 3/4 pieces) or 1 inch (2 half inch pieces) 3 mtx t812s on 1500bdcp, 2 yellowtops as of now *** this is all I have been able to find. I'm in the harrisburg pa area if anybody would know more!!!
aculous Posted April 27, 2015 Report Posted April 27, 2015 1) Probably not 2) I would try and get as good quality birch as you can. The most layers the better. I tend to use cabinet makers type ply that I can get at a lumber supply warehouse. (ie not lowes/HD/or 84 lumber although 84 I think can order it) waterproof glue? are you sure you're not looking at marine grade or something like that? 3) well I think 1 inch would be more then enough. You just want the enclosure to be rigid. Bracing comes into play heavily to accomplish that. Personal experience, I use cabinet grade 3/4" BB when I can get it and double up the mounting surface for the subs. Other then that I just brace it really well. make sure you use PL premium and use the correct fasteners for the subs. Box material won't matter if it falls apart the first time you play it full tilt.
757lmj Posted April 27, 2015 Author Report Posted April 27, 2015 1) Probably not 2) I would try and get as good quality birch as you can. The most layers the better. I tend to use cabinet makers type ply that I can get at a lumber supply warehouse. (ie not lowes/HD/or 84 lumber although 84 I think can order it) waterproof glue? are you sure you're not looking at marine grade or something like that? 3) well I think 1 inch would be more then enough. You just want the enclosure to be rigid. Bracing comes into play heavily to accomplish that. Personal experience, I use cabinet grade 3/4" BB when I can get it and double up the mounting surface for the subs. Other then that I just brace it really well. make sure you use PL premium and use the correct fasteners for the subs. Box material won't matter if it falls apart the first time you play it full tilt. the guy said waterproof was a black on the outside of it. Idk? Tnuts for subs have worked flawlessly so far. What do u mean by PL premium??
757lmj Posted April 27, 2015 Author Report Posted April 27, 2015 U say prolly not to using anything but baltic birch. Then say use best birch u can get???
Triticum Agricolam Posted April 27, 2015 Report Posted April 27, 2015 +1 to pretty much everything aculous said. I see no reason to use anything thicker than 3/4" material. Just brace well and double up on the sub mouting surface like aculous said. Real Baltic birch is the Cadillac of plywoods, its expensive though, and won't be much lighter than MDF (only about 20%). Its also can be hard to find (Home Depot or Lowe's won't have real baltic birch) and usually only comes in 5' x 5' sheets, though 4' x 8' sheet do exist supposedly. You will know its real baltic birch if it has 13 equal thickness plys. If you want to save weight and cost you can use something like Arauco plywood. Its what I build most of my boxes out of and works well for that task. "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds:
757lmj Posted April 27, 2015 Author Report Posted April 27, 2015 Do the knots on the faces matter? If I can get one side good and the other with the blemishes should i?
757lmj Posted April 27, 2015 Author Report Posted April 27, 2015 +1 to pretty much everything aculous said. I see no reason to use anything thicker than 3/4" material. Just brace well and double up on the sub mouting surface like aculous said. Real Baltic birch is the Cadillac of plywoods, its expensive though, and won't be much lighter than MDF (only about 20%). Its also can be hard to find (Home Depot or Lowe's won't have real baltic birch) and usually only comes in 5' x 5' sheets, though 4' x 8' sheet do exist supposedly. You will know its real baltic birch if it has 13 equal thickness plys. If you want to save weight and cost you can use something like Arauco plywood. Its what I build most of my boxes out of and works well for that task. I'm able to get 3/4 inch,13 ply, "black waterproof glue", in both 5x5 and 4x8. The only thing is is he can only get it with one side finished. My worry is the waterproof glue and only one side being finished. Is this wood a go or no????
magillaru Posted April 27, 2015 Report Posted April 27, 2015 Like triticum said, arauco is nice too and a little cheaper. It's what I used for my build, great quality 7-ply and its solid as hell. Singer Alternators Team Asshole #anothershittysingerbuild
Broke_Audio_Addict Posted April 27, 2015 Report Posted April 27, 2015 You can get 4x8 sheets of real Baltic birch at Menard's for around $80 sometimes they have to order it bit usually they have it in stock. A sheet weighs about 80lbs so not as light as people would like you to believe That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals.
757lmj Posted April 27, 2015 Author Report Posted April 27, 2015 Well I was about to order the 13 ply baltic birch. 4x8. 416$ for 4 sheets thru the guy f*** that! That's a new sub! So I'm getting 4 sheets of 4×8', cabinet grade 11 ply birch. For 50$ a sheet lol much better. Anything I should know? This seems to be quite ok but you guys know better
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