Baltic Birch Ply!? Q's and Help!!

[757lmj]

Thanks again for the input

[aculous]

Well I was about to order the 13 ply baltic birch. 4x8. 416$ for 4 sheets thru the guy f*** that! That's a new sub! So I'm getting 4 sheets of 4×8', cabinet grade 11 ply birch. For 50$ a sheet lol much better. Anything I should know? This seems to be quite ok but you guys know better

11 ply should be fine. And I am in your area all the time (carlisle/mechanicsville/harrisburg) 84 lumber has a 8 or 11 ply that is decent and yea its anywhere from 40-50$ a sheet. Cabinet grade stuff is nice but I have to get it from a special supplier in Virginia.

Problem with the Home depot or lowes stuff is its basically crap plywood glued together and "faced" with birch. Which sucks, not only for the fact that you are not getting what you paid for but more importantly for building subs you are getting a really inferior product that COULD have the possibly of cracking or breaking due to the checks and voids and whatever else they threw in there.

And PL premium is an adhesive. I was told not to use titebond or wood glue for seams. Its a locktite product, there is usually a concrete and multi purpose...get the one formulated for wood.

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/12/35/pl_ca_400_voc/overview/Loctite-PL-400-VOC-SubFloor-&-Deck-Adhesive.htm

[Broke_Audio_Addict]

Why wouldn't you use titebond for seams?

If your cuts are good you should have no worries about it being sealed with wood glue.

[magillaru]

Why wouldn't you use titebond for seams?

If your cuts are good you should have no worries about it being sealed with wood glue.

Was thinking the same thing......

I use titebond and it's pretty damn solid. Like broke said, as log as the cuts are good, it should be more than fine. I thought that wood glue was stronger than the actual wood once its sets?

Not that pl premium wouldn't work but definitely harder to work with and might cost more......

[757lmj]

Well I was about to order the 13 ply baltic birch. 4x8. 416$ for 4 sheets thru the guy f*** that! That's a new sub! So I'm getting 4 sheets of 4×8', cabinet grade 11 ply birch. For 50$ a sheet lol much better. Anything I should know? This seems to be quite ok but you guys know better

11 ply should be fine. And I am in your area all the time (carlisle/mechanicsville/harrisburg) 84 lumber has a 8 or 11 ply that is decent and yea its anywhere from 40-50$ a sheet. Cabinet grade stuff is nice but I have to get it from a special supplier in Virginia.

Problem with the Home depot or lowes stuff is its basically crap plywood glued together and "faced" with birch. Which sucks, not only for the fact that you are not getting what you paid for but more importantly for building subs you are getting a really inferior product that COULD have the possibly of cracking or breaking due to the checks and voids and whatever else they threw in there.

And PL premium is an adhesive. I was told not to use titebond or wood glue for seams. Its a locktite product, there is usually a concrete and multi purpose...get the one formulated for wood.

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/12/35/pl_ca_400_voc/overview/Loctite-PL-400-VOC-SubFloor-&-Deck-Adhesive.htm

mechanicsburg has the 13 ply.

is there a better way to seal then with wood glue directly for wood to wood contact, and I used silicone for the seams on the inside. That ok still?

[Broke_Audio_Addict]

I the silicone is fine as long as you let it cure completely because if you don't some of the curing agents can potentially damage the sub.

[757lmj]

I the silicone is fine as long as you let it cure completely because if you don't some of the curing agents can potentially damage the sub.

yep subs will be going in last pretty much. Besides side plate. Is there anything special I should do for the access hole? Or just bolt another piece of ply over it?

[757lmj]

Say 13x10 hole with a board bolted down over it the same size as that side

[aculous]

Why wouldn't you use titebond for seams?

If your cuts are good you should have no worries about it being sealed with wood glue.

So yea...I thought the same thing. I think PL just has a better bond once cured and in a pressurized enclosure, but I am not really sure why people say to use PL over titebond or wood glue to be honest.

Just keep seeing it over and over again in builds so I figured there was a good reason. I haven't researched the difference enough to give a good answer though. I figure at the same price if one performs better I'll use it.

[Broke_Audio_Addict]

Pl gets very brittle over time.

Although most don't keep their enclosures for years so that might not matter.