devestator_x Posted May 29, 2015 Report Posted May 29, 2015 Ok, so I am having to buy my system in stages (like a lot of folks) and this is the order I was thinking... Head Unit (done) Front Speakers (done, stockers were toast, rears are perfectly fine) 4 channel amp (coming soon, RF Prime 300x4) Sub & box (Sundown E10v2 4ohm) Mono Amp (RF Prime 500x1) Rear speakers So here is my question... during the in between time from when I get the sub and box to when I get the sub amp, is it possible to connect the sub to the 4 channel amps rear channels? I know I could wire it up as 8 ohm and bridge the channels, but what about connecting each voice coil to each channel? Probably not a good idea due to stereo separation from each channel? And to anyone wondering, I will just run the stock rears off the head unit until I replace them at the end then connect them to the 4 channel. I don't see the reason to replace something that isn't broken quite yet.
RooTxBeeR Posted May 29, 2015 Report Posted May 29, 2015 You don't want to put a voice coil per channel, just bridge two or three channels to one until you get what you need. Just make sure you don't go below the lowest allowed impedance On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
devestator_x Posted May 31, 2015 Author Report Posted May 31, 2015 Thanks for the reply, but do you mean bridge two channels into one channel, or bridge two channels into one voice coil? The amp Im looking at can only run 4 ohms bridged. The way I figure it, if I get a dual 4 sub (with the future intent of running 2 ohms on the mono amp) I can either wire both coils together for an 8 ohm load and bridge the 4 channel amp, or run one coil at 4 ohms and bridge the amp. I think it's kind of one of those situations of being 6 of one, half dozen of the other. Fairly similar results either way... I think?
MrSkippyJ Posted May 31, 2015 Report Posted May 31, 2015 any reason you don't just get a d2 sub for future 1ohm? then you can run 4ohms bridged in the mean time. F150: Stock 2019 Harley Road Glide: Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt Processor: DSR1 Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx Lid (Rear) 6x9s - TMS69
toysareforboys Posted May 31, 2015 Report Posted May 31, 2015 or run one coil at 4 ohms You are going to power just ONE of your voice coils? Don't do it. You'll lose a ton of output and if it's not in a sealed box it really messes up the tuning. Power both voice coils in series to the bridged rear channels. You're only getting half the power you could out of the amp but it's the best way you could connect it (without getting a second sub or getting your sub with dual 2 ohm voice coils). Why not get the sub with dual 2 ohm coils and buy an amp that can take 1 ohms? Like say Hifonics ZRX1216.1D, cheaper than the RF Prime ($140 at sonic) and can take 1ohms. -Jamie M.
MrSkippyJ Posted May 31, 2015 Report Posted May 31, 2015 Running one coil is fine for this application. Running each coil to its own channel requires more than setting the crossover right, the channels have to be gain matched. Still makes more sense though to get a d2 sub. F150: Stock 2019 Harley Road Glide: Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt Processor: DSR1 Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx Lid (Rear) 6x9s - TMS69
RooTxBeeR Posted May 31, 2015 Report Posted May 31, 2015 Gain matching is to make sure each sub in a shared enclosure is receiving the same power. So one doesn't get treated like a passive radiator and become overdriven mechanically. You can run 5watts to one coil of a dvc sub and 50watts to the other. It just ends at 55watts. It's like adding another battery to a 12v system. No problems. There's a lot of misconceptions about dvc subs. Let me get this straight. Your saying putting 100 watts to one coil and less to another, it's completely fine? On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
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