_paralyzed_ Posted May 31, 2015 Report Share Posted May 31, 2015 i was wrong... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTxBeeR Posted May 31, 2015 Report Share Posted May 31, 2015 i was wrong... copy that On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
islandpride684 Posted May 31, 2015 Report Share Posted May 31, 2015 Gain matching is the key here... From JL What happens when you run different signals into each voice coil of a dual voice coil speaker? Essentially, if there is any difference between the signals driving each coil at any given point in time at a given frequency, the voice coils will either fight each other or help each other, depending on the phase relationship of the two signals at that frequency. This is not the same thing as bridging an amplifier and can create undesirable non-linearities and distortion because different input signals at each voice coil create shifts in the speaker's electrical parameters. For this reason, it is advisable to mono-bridge the amplifier whenever possible and connect the voice coils of the dual voice coil speaker together in parallel or series. If a dual voice coil subwoofer must be wired to two independent channels, the inputs to both channels should ideally be the same (summed mono), and every effort should be made to match the gains of both channels as closely as possible. Build Log http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186921-blk9te-07-yukon-slo-mo-build/page-3?hl=%2Bblk9te#entry2881410 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_paralyzed_ Posted May 31, 2015 Report Share Posted May 31, 2015 Gain matching is the key here... From JL What happens when you run different signals into each voice coil of a dual voice coil speaker? Essentially, if there is any difference between the signals driving each coil at any given point in time at a given frequency, the voice coils will either fight each other or help each other, depending on the phase relationship of the two signals at that frequency. This is not the same thing as bridging an amplifier and can create undesirable non-linearities and distortion because different input signals at each voice coil create shifts in the speaker's electrical parameters. For this reason, it is advisable to mono-bridge the amplifier whenever possible and connect the voice coils of the dual voice coil speaker together in parallel or series. If a dual voice coil subwoofer must be wired to two independent channels, the inputs to both channels should ideally be the same (summed mono), and every effort should be made to match the gains of both channels as closely as possible. I just read this same thing! I hate getting old and thinking you're sure of something, and then you go to verify it and find out you are completely wrong. And today I was completely wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSkippyJ Posted May 31, 2015 Report Share Posted May 31, 2015 That's how we learn, all is well! F150: Stock 2019 Harley Road Glide: Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt Processor: DSR1 Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx Lid (Rear) 6x9s - TMS69 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devestator_x Posted June 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2015 I appreciate all the replies guys. I figured wiring each coil to a separate channel could cause the coils to fight each other if out of phase at any given moment. As far as buying an RF amp that only does 2 ohms vs Hifonics that can do 1 ohm.... All I have ever read on here is good things about RF, while Hifonics has some lovers and some haters. Figured why risk it and just go for the brand that has the better reputation. Also, pricing does come into play... I can get the RF 500X1D on Amazon for $117, which is cheaper than the Hifonics. Also I know the Sundowns can take a beating, but running 1200 into one? The enclosure will be sealed and small.... http://www.amazon.com/Pontiac-Firebird-1993-2002-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B00IFEG52K/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1433124227&sr=1-1&keywords=2002+camaro+10%22+sub+box I know you guys are going to dog it because its not home built, but my box building skills suck royally. I also am not running a big box that takes up the whole hatch. This car will eventually be daily driven by my wife and she will need that hatch space for groceries and what not. Im leaving the larger system for my own Camaro later on... that will get 2 12" subs in a ported box. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSkippyJ Posted June 1, 2015 Report Share Posted June 1, 2015 ah the amp will be limited to a 2ohm minimum. Don't get me wrong...I am a RF fan for sure and I agree with you avoiding that hifonics amp, but there are plenty of good amps that you can run at 1ohm that will make your life a little easier while you wait for a dedicated sub amp. That box doesn't look to bad, prefabs are not quite as bad when they are for sealed applications, as long as the box specs are in line with your sub specs. F150: Stock 2019 Harley Road Glide: Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt Processor: DSR1 Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx Lid (Rear) 6x9s - TMS69 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devestator_x Posted June 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2015 Not 100% sure what you mean by buying an amp that can run 1 ohm while I wait to buy a dedicated sub amp. Seems like you combined two different things here. My original question was asking about running a DVC sub off the rear channels of a 4 channel amp. That 4 channel will eventually run my mids in my front doors and my rear speakers in the sail panels. I will be buying a dedicated sub amp at that time and running a 2 amp setup. However, I dont think you would find a 4 channel amp for $120 that will run at 1 ohm. Some people in here were asking why I was looking at a dual 4 ohm sub instead of a dual 2 ohm and thats because the dedicated sub amp I had picked out (the RF) was only 2 ohm stable. The conversation kind of shifted halfway through. Basically, I now know I need to either run 1 coil on the bridged channels, or both coils at a higher ohm. Again, it's only temporary until I buy the dedicated sub amp later on. I thought the RF 500X1D and the Sundown E series were a good match. rated 500 RMS on the amp, 500 RMS rating on the sub.... both are known to be underrated.... sounded good in my head. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSkippyJ Posted June 1, 2015 Report Share Posted June 1, 2015 No sorry, badly worded on my part. I mean there are plenty of good amps that will run at 1ohm that you can purchase AS the second amp. That way you can buy a D2 sub and run 2 of your 4 channels bridged until you get the second amp. That way you can run both coils on the amp temporarily until you get the second amp. F150: Stock 2019 Harley Road Glide: Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt Processor: DSR1 Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx Lid (Rear) 6x9s - TMS69 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RainStryke Posted June 1, 2015 Report Share Posted June 1, 2015 That's similar to what I'm running, I also went with the D4 sub to get a 2OHM impedance for my Alpine MRX-M55 that can do 550w @ 2OHM's. It's nice cause it's a lot more efficient on my power running it that way. Don't know how attached you are to Sundown, but the SoundQubed HDS210 is also a excellent sub and a little cheaper. I put mine in this box: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-Audio-Single-10-Slot-Ported-Subwoofer-Labyrinth-Bass-Speaker-SPL-Sub-Box-/400919343693?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d58a7b24d&vxp=mtr I was very surprised at the outcome, it's nowhere near the power of my old set-up... It hits pretty hard for what it is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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