scooter99 Posted June 1, 2015 Report Share Posted June 1, 2015 Ok guys, so after doing a ton of looking around, and forum searching, and asking questions etc, I was beginning to think the only way to get a second alternator in my F250 with the 6.0L was to do the damn ambulance package. Well I wasn't really wanting to do that since the brackets, pulleys, belt, etc are well over $200 and around $300 in some cases. I wasn't really looking to spend a grand to get a second alt in this thing. Well I spoke with Mike several times about options and what possibly to do about it. I thought there was a spot up front between the radiator and the turbo tube that would work, but wanted to make sure an alternator isn't direction specific. It's not. So this weekend I got the old alt out, and new one in. First, damn easiest alternator swap I've ever done. I swear, it took longer to make the new 1/0 cable to go from alt to battery than it did to swap the old stock one for the singer beauty! WOW. Anyway, so with the alts swapped out, I knew the stock one is the same size so I decided to use it to do some testing. I found two options that seem like they'll work. One with some considerable modifications to the turbo tube, and the other with no modifications needed but some compromise that may need to be made. I will do separate posts on the options, but what I'd like is to see if anyone had some suggestions based on these options. Brackets will need to be made for either option. But I need to decide what's possible and not possible and what's the best option. Let's hear it. Posts upcoming. Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooter99 Posted June 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2015 Option 1, Stacking the units but modifications need to be made to the turbo tube. So I am able to get the stock alt on top of the turbo tube. Would utilize the same mounting holes as the stock location. A bracket would need to be made to support the single hole side as well. There's about 2-2 1/2 inches to spare before it hits the hood when latched. As you can see here it would line up directly with the belt line so no other pulleys or anything would need to be added. I will have to add some kind of tensioner or pulley between the alts for belt wrap, but that's not a huge deal. It does hit the turbo tube, and the tube would have to drop about 1 1/2 - 2 inches so it wouldn't hit or touch the alt. That's the dilemma because I could raise the alt up a little, but with only 2 inches to spare that puts it a little closer to the hood than I want to have it. Taking motor movement into consideration and a chance for any mishaps, I don't want to take the chance. I could probably spare an inch, maybe less, and that would mean less drop to the tube. In the back, with it dropped, it does come close to the oil fill neck, but I don't think that's an issue.If I can raise the alt up a touch, then this becomes a non issue, believe it or not. I know it doesn't look like it, but if I go up with it, the tube actually almost rotates forward. The crease or fold you see in the blue rubber connector is because of the drop in the tube. I'm not sure if I can get another one made, or a whole custom tube or what, or I didn't see if I loosened it, if it would just rotate and then I could tighten it and not have the crease. So that's option 1. What do you guys think? Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooter99 Posted June 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2015 Option 2, flip the alt, and run it next to the radiator and fan, no mods, but compromises need to be made. So in the 6.0 Powerstrokes, a Radiator Fluid Bypass kit is recommended by the guys in the forums. I won't go into why, but let's just say it's on my lists of things I want/need to do. This is the problem that I'm facing, and compromise I need to decide on. Most of the bypass kits, go right where the alt would go. I don't know if I can find anywhere as an alternative to mount it. It really is a good idea to put one in, for longevity reasons. So I have to decide which is more important. Take a look at option 2. Unlike in Option 1, there is no where to mount this option, so an entire bracket would have to be made for this one. There is room below, and a frame that's accessible so mounting would be solid. It does still line up with the pulley like in option 1 as well. It touches nothing, and no mods need to be made other than the bracket. Plenty of room as you can see, plus no moving or altering anything (turbo tube) is needed. It looks like there's plenty of room behind there for the rad bypass kit, but there really isn't. I'll have to double check the measurements on it, but I don't think there is enough room. So that's option 2. Simpler, in that nothing on the motor has to be modified, but more complex because of trying to fit everything in there, and a bracket that would need to be made. Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted June 1, 2015 Report Share Posted June 1, 2015 If there is a kit made for it I would buy the kit and know it's going to work. Nothing worse than fabbing something up and then watching he bracket shear off or something if that happens you're stranded THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooter99 Posted June 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2015 The kit is a pain in the ass to get, and it's expensive. But the alt that goes in there is about half the size of the primary. But I hear what you're saying and I may have to go that route, but if I can make something else happen, I need to at least explore it. I have the stock alt for mock up so I don't have to buy another alt right now. Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocking.that.eclipse Posted June 1, 2015 Report Share Posted June 1, 2015 I'm with n8 here man. I watched a buddy of mine have his bracket break and you gotta think that if you bracket breaks for some reason all accessories are no longer working. He actually used twine to hold it to my place... 2 hours away Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooter99 Posted June 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2015 What is breaking on the brackets? Like where, at the joints, it's bending, bolts sheered off? Just wondering. Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocking.that.eclipse Posted June 1, 2015 Report Share Posted June 1, 2015 What is breaking on the brackets? Like where, at the joints, it's bending, bolts sheered off? Just wondering. His bolts ended up breaking off and then that caused the alt to rotate forward and to lose tension on belt. Also he had a problem with bracket not being exactly correct and shredding belts often. Had to remake bracket 2 times to get it right Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bump4life Posted June 1, 2015 Report Share Posted June 1, 2015 id buy the kit thats premade and proven. even if its expensive. then you can still get that rad kit? for the alternator bracket where do they put the other alternator? and are you sure its half the size? Buyer/Seller Feedback Thread: http://www.stevemead...5015-bump4life/ MB C220 153 Trunk Car Build Log: http://www.stevemead...d/#entry1840136 MB C280 Ipad Dash SQ Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/194484-bump4lifes-new-benz-tony-c-relay-kit-pictures-ce-electric-audison-front-stage-installed/ My SPL Log: http://www.stevemead...__fromsearch__1 BMW M340 xDrive Stock, for now. Corner Load 10" maybe soon. But does 10s in the 1/4... Best Scores out of a trunk 153.0 sealed legal full tilt clamped 5524 @ 42 hz 154+ windows down, 155+ kick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProMaxx316 Posted June 1, 2015 Report Share Posted June 1, 2015 I know it's a different year but hanks truck is a ford diesel and if I remember right on one video he has his alts like option 1. but was slightly staggered. Like the second alt was more to the radiator. Almost like it's running off it's own belt. Edit for link https://youtu.be/CLfsAqTBxS8 If it's worth building, it's worth over building. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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