Mr DeeBeez Posted June 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2015 First of all, i think the problem is likely with the charging issue with your car. Get that shit figured out. Dumb question, but it hasn't been asked yet. You were doing all of this comparing between your friend's car and yours. Were you using the same box, subs, etc in both tests? Yeah i think its with the charging system too, thats what im trying to figure out in this thread.. and not the same subs, but was the same amp both at same ohm load, both set with same dd-1 track even with comparing the cars aside, i think i should have better voltage than i am seeing Fi Team 18's (4) Crossfire 16k Crossfire 400.4 & 800.4 Pioneer AVH-X491bhs 140ah cmax CES 320's (2) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleanSierra Posted June 10, 2015 Report Share Posted June 10, 2015 The box and subs COULD make a difference to be honest. Box efficiency and different subs could be what is causing the issue, although not likely. I just wanted to know mainly if you were doing an EXACT apples to apples comparison. Did you check the wiring at the amp with a DMM to confirm you were indeed wired at .5 ohms? Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr DeeBeez Posted June 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2015 Well... No more sp4. Wired down to half ohm for testing and played 35hz tone for a bit and the tinsel leads burned up and caught the spider on fire... But! Did get some testing done before and it's strange to me. Rpm at 2300, full tilt, front battery holding 14.2 steady, back batteries dropping to 12.2. Why would the back batteries be draining, but not the front? When clamped, alt wire is reading 60a, clamped at the amp power wire, reading 170a Fi Team 18's (4) Crossfire 16k Crossfire 400.4 & 800.4 Pioneer AVH-X491bhs 140ah cmax CES 320's (2) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quintine Posted June 10, 2015 Report Share Posted June 10, 2015 From the sounds of that I would say somthing is funky with your ground loop. Run 2 cables back to front for grounding. Bummer about the SP4 sounds like its time to order a re cone. If you leave it till the last minute, it will only take a minute. Build Log - 4x12's Trunk Firing 6th Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyblack76 Posted June 10, 2015 Report Share Posted June 10, 2015 Well... No more sp4. Wired down to half ohm for testing and played 35hz tone for a bit and the tinsel leads burned up and caught the spider on fire... But! Did get some testing done before and it's strange to me. Rpm at 2300, full tilt, front battery holding 14.2 steady, back batteries dropping to 12.2. Why would the back batteries be draining, but not the front? When clamped, alt wire is reading 60a, clamped at the amp power wire, reading 170a subs are trash anyway... burn em down You have something going on with the front to rear runs. Double and triple check your fusing. Your alt doing less at 2k, than your rear bank is giving is fucked... your shit is fucked.... its fucked. SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyblack76 Posted June 10, 2015 Report Share Posted June 10, 2015 its fucked... SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr DeeBeez Posted June 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2015 I'm really thinking about selling my car and starting fresh with an s10 blazer or jimmy. Fi Team 18's (4) Crossfire 16k Crossfire 400.4 & 800.4 Pioneer AVH-X491bhs 140ah cmax CES 320's (2) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reedal Posted June 11, 2015 Report Share Posted June 11, 2015 Why? Did you contact mechman (I believe that's who you said you got the alt from) to see if there's something they can do? SMD Tool Map https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/193176-smd-tool-map-new-november-2014/ Build log https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/197217-reeds-03-tahoe-hat-sqaq-singer-xs-shca-cockbox-80prs/?page=32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr DeeBeez Posted June 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2015 Well for one, I would like an sub a lot more than a trunk car. And 2, I have talked to mechman, but in order for them to do anything, I have to pay a shop to take out my alt (it's buried in my engine) send it in and have no car for a while, then pay to get it put back in. Fi Team 18's (4) Crossfire 16k Crossfire 400.4 & 800.4 Pioneer AVH-X491bhs 140ah cmax CES 320's (2) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCPower_Anthony Posted June 17, 2015 Report Share Posted June 17, 2015 The 240AMP alternator has close to no output at idle, your crank shaft pulley and alternator pulley diameter will determine what output you get at a certain RPM. A lot of companies put a pulley smaller than 2 inches on there to get the most output they possibly can at idle which could lead to possible belt slip issues as well because there just isn't enough tension on the alternator. A 180 amp alternator would perform better at idle than your 240 amp unit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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