Gorenflo Posted August 31, 2015 Report Posted August 31, 2015 Hello! This being my first post I actually made this account to ask this specific question. I hope this is the correct area to post about the on/off wire not working, if it's not I have faith someone will place it in the correct forum. My setup: I am running a Kenwood KAC821 amplifier in bridged mode on a custom made box with two JBL 12's. My car: 1999 BMW e39 528i I actually had my system professionally installed since I know little about installing a system at all, but when I take a light check to the remote on/off wire anywhere (obviously with the car on) the light comes on but is very dim and goes out after just a couple seconds.. I checked all connections and everything is hooked in well and nothing is frayed or touching another wire. The Kenwood amp is receiving power and you can tell from the power light on the front of the amp, however a couple seconds after the initial click noise the amp makes after receiving power and turning on there is another click from within the amp. Maybe a safety protocol keeping the amp from surging? I'm not sure. Lastly, I know this cannot be good for any box but if I take both hands and tap the top of the box with music playing the subs will pulsate a few times.. Stop.. And after a few seconds the subs will work for a short period of time. (The period of time always varies and from what I can tell nothing specific is telling/causing the subs to turn off) Any suggestions on what the problem with the remote on/off would be? And why would tapping the box actually make it work? Could this be an internal issue within the box?
Kyblack76 Posted August 31, 2015 Report Posted August 31, 2015 Remove the load from the amp, and try it again... SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold
Gorenflo Posted August 31, 2015 Author Report Posted August 31, 2015 Remove the load from the amp, and try it again... Would disconnecting the ground not reset the load? Also when I take the light check to the remote on/off it kills all sound in the car, even the factory speakers.
gckless Posted August 31, 2015 Report Posted August 31, 2015 Remove the load from the amp, and try it again... Bumping this post. "Clipping" is the biggest forum boner now. It's like witchcraft... it automatically explains just about everything people don't understand. My build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/200295-gckless-2011-chevrolet-impala/ High resolution photos: Gilbert Kless Photography
sweendog Posted August 31, 2015 Report Posted August 31, 2015 He means unhook the subs from the amp and try again.
Gorenflo Posted August 31, 2015 Author Report Posted August 31, 2015 Everything has been disconnected and reconnected at this point. I think I am to the point where I will have to open the box up and take a look for anything loose
reedal Posted August 31, 2015 Report Posted August 31, 2015 Use a DMM and measure the voltage on the remote wire. Should read 12v. That should have been step one in my opinion. Do that with it unattached to the amp, and if it reads good there, then your remote is good and you have a problem elsewhere SMD Tool Map https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/193176-smd-tool-map-new-november-2014/ Build log https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/197217-reeds-03-tahoe-hat-sqaq-singer-xs-shca-cockbox-80prs/?page=32
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