SCATHED Posted December 17, 2015 Report Posted December 17, 2015 Sup! I'm sure this has been discussed before so I'll keep it short. Any problem with running a 10 foot 0 gauge cable from the amp to your battery under the hood as a ground? And yes, I've grounded to the frame many times with no problems, I am just curious about running a long (about 10-12 foot) ground cable from the amp directly to your battery. Thanks!
ChevyBoy95 Posted December 17, 2015 Report Posted December 17, 2015 Generally people don't do that. They would wire the amp to the rear battery, and then sometimes run a full length ground from the front battery to the rear battery as well as having the rear battery grounded to the frame. There is nothing "wrong" with how you are thinking, but generally you want your amplifier ground to be as short as possible. What vehicle do you have? Best Score to Date : 160.5 dB Outlaw (47Hz)[4 XM 15's & 2 Taramps Bass 12k's] BL : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/147800-chevyboy95s-4-15s-7krms-wall-1533-db-on-half-power/YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/hitemwiththeflex/
miniSPLlancer Posted December 17, 2015 Report Posted December 17, 2015 Nay, keep the ground as short as possible. No need to run 10ft ground if you can ground it 14" away. 2011 Mitsubishi OutlanderSony 712 Soundqubed HDS208 Alpine MRV-M500 Transmission line enclosure Soundqubed wiring Knu rca XS Power battery CNF terminals
SCATHED Posted December 17, 2015 Author Report Posted December 17, 2015 Generally people don't do that. They would wire the amp to the rear battery, and then sometimes run a full length ground from the front battery to the rear battery as well as having the rear battery grounded to the frame. There is nothing "wrong" with how you are thinking, but generally you want your amplifier ground to be as short as possible. What vehicle do you have? It's a single cab f150
MADVIBES Posted December 17, 2015 Report Posted December 17, 2015 The reason people say keep the ground as short as possible is because that statement assumes you are using the frame of the car as a ground, most cars have shitty frames to ground on I think it is best to run a ground to the battery as well, why not? more capacitance is better, always! cars such as big trucks have actual decent frames, but cars mostley have sub frames that are pinchwelded and glued by the time the amp gets the ground. fecupe has a good log on here someone that posts before and after numbers of a few different tricks he used to maximize his spl. DB DRAG PSYCHLONE PRO 156.3 30 SECOND AVERAGE FO MAX AT 26HZ LEGAL DASH DRIVER DOOR OPEN 158.0@30 HZ MY BEST SO FAR, HOPEFULLY A 160 COME FEBUARY. 156.9@26hz 158.0@30hz
SCATHED Posted December 17, 2015 Author Report Posted December 17, 2015 Yeah I think I might run the wire to the battery...seems like it would complete the circle perfectly but I could be wrong. Does anyone else have any thoughts?
SLYentist Posted December 17, 2015 Report Posted December 17, 2015 sounds like a ground loop waiting to happen. If you're going to run a ground to the batter, use a distribution block at the rear body ground, using the added ground lead as only a supplementary conductor to the car body. that's just my $.02 Cables and wires almost never fail; the terminations do.
MrSkippyJ Posted December 17, 2015 Report Posted December 17, 2015 How much power are you running? F150: Stock 2019 Harley Road Glide: Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt Processor: DSR1 Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx Lid (Rear) 6x9s - TMS69
SCATHED Posted December 17, 2015 Author Report Posted December 17, 2015 Only 2000 watts (Crescendo bc2000). Why would running a ground to the battery cause ground loop? Doesn't all the factory grounds lead directly to the battery anyway?
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