Components that play low

[LoudPackRacing]

I was wondering what components can play down all the way to 80hz without distorting?I was looking at Hertz HSK series.

[jk13]

Just about any 6.5 should play to 80 if installed properly, especially those of that quality. Just like a sub box it depends on the install air space and front/rear isolation.

I run all mine down to 50-60 and just use subs for fill. Not like most of the other nutjobs around here...

[jcro_61]

My ID 6.5's play pretty good (IMO) down into the 30s before they start to lose steam on 75 watts RMS.

I have spent a lot of time installing CLD, CCF and MLV in my doors as well. Without this step they sounded like shit IMO.

[LoudPackRacing]

My ID 6.5's play pretty good (IMO) down into the 30s before they start to lose steam on 75 watts RMS.

I have spent a lot of time installing CLD, CCF and MLV in my doors as well. Without this step they sounded like shit IMO.

Just about any 6.5 should play to 80 if installed properly, especially those of that quality. Just like a sub box it depends on the install air space and front/rear isolation.

I run all mine down to 50-60 and just use subs for fill. Not like most of the other nutjobs around here...

So how many layers of deadener would you recommend?

[jcro_61]

I put 1 layer on the outer door skin that is 100% coverage of the flat sheet metal but only accounts for about 60% of the door due to tubular bracing inside the door shell. I did 100% coverage on the inner shell. I then covered the door shell with 1/8" CCF and 1/8" 1lb MLV. I also made my own equivilant to F.A.S.T rings. I also use some gasket material that was similar to double sided tape on the speaker adapters to seal them to the door. Without this the adapters could flex causing more problems.

I still have a little rattle on the outside of the car around my front door handles and a little resonance on the panels, however this is only heard when you are outside of the car. The resonance cannot be heard inside of the car and the bass response is pretty nice IMO. It is very full sounding.

If you want good response from your mids this is very crucial. Before I installed the acoustic materials, my 400 dollars in mids sounded horrid. All the resonance in the door panels when the bass notes hit made it sound like the speakers were going to blow and the output inside the vehicle was not that much better than stock.

I am fairly confident that I could install some 50 dollar coaxials in my doors with the acoustic treatment I have done and get what a lot of average listeners would consider great sound.

This is what these guys mean when they talk about the "install".

I am not means an expert, this is just my experience and opinion.

*Edit*

Just to note, I am currently running my amp full range as I have not hooked up my 3Sixty.3 or my amp/sub yet. Once I do I will be setting up the crossover for the mids and I am fairly confident a lot of the left over rattles heard outside will be gone or barely audible due to not having the mids playing 30-40HZ notes anymore ( depending where I end up setting my xover )

[White Lightning]

With the way I have my install done ... my 5.25s play the equivalent to alot of 8" drivers I see these days.

[miniSPLlancer]

You named one set, Hertz HSK, and someone else named the other set I know of, Image Dynamics CX comps

[jcro_61]

With the way I have my install done ... my 5.25s play the equivalent to alot of 8" drivers I see these days.

I was looking at your thread last night.

I almost referenced it in my last reply actually.

My amp has a built in HPF at 80hz and IMO it is way too high.

[MrSkippyJ]

With the way I have my install done ... my 5.25s play the equivalent to alot of 8" drivers I see these days.

not my 8s

[LoudPackRacing]

I put 1 layer on the outer door skin that is 100% coverage of the flat sheet metal but only accounts for about 60% of the door due to tubular bracing inside the door shell. I did 100% coverage on the inner shell. I then covered the door shell with 1/8" CCF and 1/8" 1lb MLV. I also made my own equivilant to F.A.S.T rings. I also use some gasket material that was similar to double sided tape on the speaker adapters to seal them to the door. Without this the adapters could flex causing more problems.

I still have a little rattle on the outside of the car around my front door handles and a little resonance on the panels, however this is only heard when you are outside of the car. The resonance cannot be heard inside of the car and the bass response is pretty nice IMO. It is very full sounding.

If you want good response from your mids this is very crucial. Before I installed the acoustic materials, my 400 dollars in mids sounded horrid. All the resonance in the door panels when the bass notes hit made it sound like the speakers were going to blow and the output inside the vehicle was not that much better than stock.

I am fairly confident that I could install some 50 dollar coaxials in my doors with the acoustic treatment I have done and get what a lot of average listeners would consider great sound.

This is what these guys mean when they talk about the "install".

I am not means an expert, this is just my experience and opinion.

*Edit*

Just to note, I am currently running my amp full range as I have not hooked up my 3Sixty.3 or my amp/sub yet. Once I do I will be setting up the crossover for the mids and I am fairly confident a lot of the left over rattles heard outside will be gone or barely audible due to not having the mids playing 30-40HZ notes anymore ( depending where I end up setting my xover )

Correct me if I'm wrong but you have all 3 forms of insulation dynamat, ccf , and mlv. Does this add a lot of weight to your doors?