Components that play low

[jcro_61]

I put 1 layer on the outer door skin that is 100% coverage of the flat sheet metal but only accounts for about 60% of the door due to tubular bracing inside the door shell. I did 100% coverage on the inner shell. I then covered the door shell with 1/8" CCF and 1/8" 1lb MLV. I also made my own equivilant to F.A.S.T rings. I also use some gasket material that was similar to double sided tape on the speaker adapters to seal them to the door. Without this the adapters could flex causing more problems.

I still have a little rattle on the outside of the car around my front door handles and a little resonance on the panels, however this is only heard when you are outside of the car. The resonance cannot be heard inside of the car and the bass response is pretty nice IMO. It is very full sounding.

If you want good response from your mids this is very crucial. Before I installed the acoustic materials, my 400 dollars in mids sounded horrid. All the resonance in the door panels when the bass notes hit made it sound like the speakers were going to blow and the output inside the vehicle was not that much better than stock.

I am fairly confident that I could install some 50 dollar coaxials in my doors with the acoustic treatment I have done and get what a lot of average listeners would consider great sound.

This is what these guys mean when they talk about the "install".

I am not means an expert, this is just my experience and opinion.

*Edit*

Just to note, I am currently running my amp full range as I have not hooked up my 3Sixty.3 or my amp/sub yet. Once I do I will be setting up the crossover for the mids and I am fairly confident a lot of the left over rattles heard outside will be gone or barely audible due to not having the mids playing 30-40HZ notes anymore ( depending where I end up setting my xover )

Correct me if I'm wrong but you have all 3 forms of insulation dynamat, ccf , and mlv. Does this add a lot of weight to your doors?

I can't imagine it added anything the doors couldn't handle, maybe 4-5 lbs on the front door and slightly less on the rear doors. Other than the improvement in sound you can't tell the difference.

[Skullz]

This is coming from someone that played with quite a few different sets of comps and coax's, and i do not recommend playing too low as the excursion is so great you'll tear the surround and spiders in them fairly quick, and the more power you give them the faster they'll fail. To be perfectly honest though the bass is amazing, but really does come at a cost of longevity though. When your subless you'll do what you have to get as much bass as you possibly can, so i can relate to those that still try to.

[LoudPackRacing]

I put 1 layer on the outer door skin that is 100% coverage of the flat sheet metal but only accounts for about 60% of the door due to tubular bracing inside the door shell. I did 100% coverage on the inner shell. I then covered the door shell with 1/8" CCF and 1/8" 1lb MLV. I also made my own equivilant to F.A.S.T rings. I also use some gasket material that was similar to double sided tape on the speaker adapters to seal them to the door. Without this the adapters could flex causing more problems.

I still have a little rattle on the outside of the car around my front door handles and a little resonance on the panels, however this is only heard when you are outside of the car. The resonance cannot be heard inside of the car and the bass response is pretty nice IMO. It is very full sounding.

If you want good response from your mids this is very crucial. Before I installed the acoustic materials, my 400 dollars in mids sounded horrid. All the resonance in the door panels when the bass notes hit made it sound like the speakers were going to blow and the output inside the vehicle was not that much better than stock.

I am fairly confident that I could install some 50 dollar coaxials in my doors with the acoustic treatment I have done and get what a lot of average listeners would consider great sound.

This is what these guys mean when they talk about the "install".

I am not means an expert, this is just my experience and opinion.

*Edit*

Just to note, I am currently running my amp full range as I have not hooked up my 3Sixty.3 or my amp/sub yet. Once I do I will be setting up the crossover for the mids and I am fairly confident a lot of the left over rattles heard outside will be gone or barely audible due to not having the mids playing 30-40HZ notes anymore ( depending where I end up setting my xover )

Correct me if I'm wrong but you have all 3 forms of insulation dynamat, ccf , and mlv. Does this add a lot of weight to your doors?

I can't imagine it added anything the doors couldn't handle, maybe 4-5 lbs on the front door and slightly less on the rear doors. Other than the improvement in sound you can't tell the difference.

After the dynamat did you use the ccf before or after the mlv?

[jcro_61]

*Edit*

In between the MLV and the door panel, sorry

[3vil]

How many times you going to ask that?

[LoudPackRacing]

How many times you going to ask that?

I'm on my mobile phone it acts up and does its own thing.

[boom50cal]

had my sundown mids crossed at 50hz most of the time... guy that had them before had them crossed at the same. They didn't mind it ran passive on my Zapco. Didn't like it active off my Taramps or my Digital Designs c5d. Have them crossed at 63hz now and I'll roll them full tilt for an hour or two at a time without worries

[3vil]

How many times you going to ask that?

I'm on my mobile phone it acts up and does its own thing.

You should try to request the desktop view of the website on your phone. Also maybe edit all those extra posts and cut all the text out. Just Makes it easier on the rest of us trying to follow the topic.