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No midbass with new speakers


Irocthestreetz

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Found the problem, messaged soundqubed and found out the components are only good for 50 wrms, not 100wrms like I thought so I think I'm going go ahead and put the pa's on the front and the components mids to the rear.

Good to find out what you have to work with. Usually a first step when pairing speakers to amp but none of which will help with midbass in the long run.

Yeah for whatever reason I believed they were 100wrms looks like I'm going work with the pa's up front while I save for deadener and some morels

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If you're using the crossovers that came with the component set, then you have no need to use the amplifiers built-in crossover or HU's. If you're getting crackling from it, turn the gain down a bit if you're not using an oscope or DD-1 or other distortion detector, set the amp to full-pass, (I ran those components active crossed at 63hz 24dB/oct, gain set to -5dB with no issues with midbass or crackling), and it should level out. But you should isolate the crackling to either the mid or tweeter. If it's the tweeter, there should be a variable attenuator on the crossover to lower the output reaching the tweets.

What would a oscope of DD-1 tell him that he doesn't notice yet at the moment?

The speakers are being driven too hard, so turn down the gain or turn up the crossover if it's the midbass.

The reason why you had great midbass and not anymore with different components is that it was designed around those stock speakers.

Considering he said he's using a DMM to set his gains, an oscope or DD-1 will tell him more than what he's guessing at. And he obviously doesn't realize his speakers are being driven too hard if he didn't turn the gain down until it stopped when he started hearing the crackling.

What if his DD-1 or Oscope says he needs to turn the gains up?

What he is describing sounds a lot more like overpowering/wrong crossover frequency for the amount of power.

Crackling= usually means that the driver is at the end of it's travel.

I assure you, they can take the 90.4 gain set max clean to 1khz@-5dB, actively crossed at 63hz -24dB/oct. His settings are wrong, and by not guessing what his gain is set at with a tone he doesn't even know what it is, he will have a better experience. Ask me how I know. I have them. I did it. I changed to the PA's because the comps weren't keeping up in my opinion.

Found the problem, messaged soundqubed and found out the components are only good for 50 wrms, not 100wrms like I thought so I think I'm going go ahead and put the pa's on the front and the components mids to the rear.

@Reedal

Funny how you can assure me that when SQ can't assure it.

It's up to you to believe me or not. I'm only giving you my experience as to what I have done, as does you, and everyone else on this forum. SQ will only quote what they have written on paper as featured specifications, like almost every other retailer.

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I've done direct swaps from soundqubed to DD 6x9's and 5.25's and the customer saw a huge increase in clarity, mid bass, and loudness. I would advise against the soundqubed speaker line. He also blew his soundqubed subs, but his 2512's are still going strong.

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Funny how you can assure me that when SQ can't assure it.

It's up to you to believe me or not. I'm only giving you my experience as to what I have done, as does you, and everyone else on this forum. SQ will only quote what they have written on paper as featured specifications, like almost every other retailer.

Not all speakers are equal, especially not if they don't have a great quality control.

Not every install is the same.

You got lucky.

Thinking is the root of all problems...

You ALWAYS get what you pay for.

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