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Joseph Chambers

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Without getting into how to make that setup work just yet, I honestly don't see how adding a $40 4" coax will be an improvement to the two sets of $450 component sets you already have up front.

If the goal is just to add rear speakers and you are left with two amp channels empty, I'm sure we can help you with a better solution.

Static drops are my bag.

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80PRS cant do 4 way active, it's either Front/Rear/Sub or High/Mid/Low, so adding another size up front and rears won't allow you to go active anyway.

Those 4" won't handle the power that the others will. They will need their own dedicated channel turned down.

They also don't have an outboard passive x-over, meaning you won't be able to power the 4" and the tweeter separately like you can with your component sets.

Static drops are my bag.

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Ive been reading up on the Soundstream Harmony DSP and from what i understand after talking to their tech support rep, You have 4 channels in and 8 out to use how ya see fit... I may be wrong, idk, but it may be an option if you went that route. Maybe somebody w more know how than me can shad any light on this... but, read my Username before considering anything i say lol

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Without getting into how to make that setup work just yet, I honestly don't see how adding a $40 4" coax will be an improvement to the two sets of $450 component sets you already have up front.

If the goal is just to add rear speakers and you are left with two amp channels empty, I'm sure we can help you with a better solution.

Well, yea I wanted to add the rear speakers and know that the proper way would be to get another amp. These are the http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_68823_NVX-XSP525.html ones I want to add in the back. The current a pillars were made quickly and the positioning is off. So I think steves would be a better idea if I already want to remake them. But your right, I decided on adding the front 4" for the reason that 2 would be better and I didnt like how these turned out.

DSC01140.jpg

80PRS cant do 4 way active, it's either Front/Rear/Sub or High/Mid/Low, so adding another size up front and rears won't allow you to go active anyway.

Those 4" won't handle the power that the others will. They will need their own dedicated channel turned down.

They also don't have an outboard passive x-over, meaning you won't be able to power the 4" and the tweeter separately like you can with your component sets.

Do you know if the Soundstream Harmony DSP would let you turn down power to that channel? What would you suggest with the two channels as opposed to the 4" that I found?

Ive been reading up on the Soundstream Harmony DSP and from what i understand after talking to their tech support rep, You have 4 channels in and 8 out to use how ya see fit... I may be wrong, idk, but it may be an option if you went that route. Maybe somebody w more know how than me can shad any light on this... but, read my Username before considering anything i say lol

Actually I was looking at the Soundstream Harmony DSP right now. What sucks is that I dont see anyone on youtube talking about it. The price point is perfect.

HU: Pioneer DMH-Z5350BT

Mids & Highs: ML280.3, ML700.3, ML1800.3 Mille Legend Series 3 way

Lows: x3 JL Audio 12TW3 powered by JL Audio RD1500/1 

Cable: x2 Skyhigh 0 Gage OFC kits. Skyhigh 8 gage & 16 gage OFC speaker cable

Sound Deadener: 121 sq feet of Skyhigh 120mil
DSP: AudioControl DM 810

Project Build Log

Click here: 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee SQ Build to see the build progress.

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Steve's 4" speakers are a dedicated midrange, not a cheap (in comparison to the rest of his gear) coax with it's own mismatched tweeter. NVX doesn't look to have a dedicated 4" midrange to match your current gear. You could certainly go outside of the NVX brand to find one, but I appreciate you trying to keep it all brand-centric. That's always a good idea.

Honestly I think you'd be fine with the two component sets up front by themselves. I do like the 3-way setup, but it requires a lot more tuning knowledge to make it work--unless you find a set that all comes together with a 3-way passive x-over.

If you don't add the mids:

With just one 90.4 in the system you can run 2 channels two ohms up front to both component sets, and the other two channels to the back on the 5.25s.

If you add a second 90.4 you could run one to just the 6.5s up front (4 channels 4 ohms--one speaker per channel) and the other to the front tweeters and rear coax. It sounds like you're not gaining much power, but by going back down to 4 ohms you are letting the amp work less and gaining a bunch of dynamic headroom. It will make a difference.

When you remake your pillars, what about grouping both tweeters together rather than adding a mid? Would make time alignment tuning easier.

Static drops are my bag.

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jk13 I am digesting your feedback now.

HU: Pioneer DMH-Z5350BT

Mids & Highs: ML280.3, ML700.3, ML1800.3 Mille Legend Series 3 way

Lows: x3 JL Audio 12TW3 powered by JL Audio RD1500/1 

Cable: x2 Skyhigh 0 Gage OFC kits. Skyhigh 8 gage & 16 gage OFC speaker cable

Sound Deadener: 121 sq feet of Skyhigh 120mil
DSP: AudioControl DM 810

Project Build Log

Click here: 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee SQ Build to see the build progress.

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Hey,

So setting up the deh 80prs to run in network mode. Remove the cross-overs to run active and run it like this:

a2pluLx.png

this would be the best option for me.. right?

HU: Pioneer DMH-Z5350BT

Mids & Highs: ML280.3, ML700.3, ML1800.3 Mille Legend Series 3 way

Lows: x3 JL Audio 12TW3 powered by JL Audio RD1500/1 

Cable: x2 Skyhigh 0 Gage OFC kits. Skyhigh 8 gage & 16 gage OFC speaker cable

Sound Deadener: 121 sq feet of Skyhigh 120mil
DSP: AudioControl DM 810

Project Build Log

Click here: 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee SQ Build to see the build progress.

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That is what I would do, other than I'd have to do some research on the 80PRS and your amps' built in crossovers to determine which would be the best option for setting up the crossover network.

Quick look it seems with what you have above in active mode I'm not sure how you'd get a usable HP or even full range signal to the rears.

In F/R/Sub mode you could use the amps' crossover network for the 6.5 and tweeter crossovers or bi-amp your passives (they allow for a low in and a high in). Nice to have gear that allows you options like that.

Static drops are my bag.

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I have a harmony dsp I use, it sounds really good, the last two channels are fixed as sub outputs. not exactly a use as you see fit type of dsp, but it does have good functionality. one other down side to it. the 31 band eq works across all channels. I was under the impression I could use the 30 band eq on each pair of channels, that way I could get my different comp sets in different locations a flat response. Only complaints I have about it. You can turn the gains up or down on all 8 invidual channels.

 

DB DRAG PSYCHLONE PRO 156.3 30 SECOND AVERAGE FO MAX AT 26HZ

LEGAL DASH DRIVER DOOR OPEN 158.0@30 HZ

MY BEST SO FAR, HOPEFULLY A 160 COME FEBUARY.

156.9@26hz  158.0@30hz

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Just to show ya'll my system. I just realized that my headliner is dropping from the back. Just put that on Thursday.:( I will fix it Tuesday. Monday I'm adding security film so I cant Monday.

Here is the walkaround and here is it playing. I just uploaded this and #OMG it sounds like shit on video. IRL it sounds a lot better. hahaha. I don't even have the gains setup properly on it. Turned down low and still it souds good.

HU: Pioneer DMH-Z5350BT

Mids & Highs: ML280.3, ML700.3, ML1800.3 Mille Legend Series 3 way

Lows: x3 JL Audio 12TW3 powered by JL Audio RD1500/1 

Cable: x2 Skyhigh 0 Gage OFC kits. Skyhigh 8 gage & 16 gage OFC speaker cable

Sound Deadener: 121 sq feet of Skyhigh 120mil
DSP: AudioControl DM 810

Project Build Log

Click here: 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee SQ Build to see the build progress.

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