CleanSierra Posted January 29, 2016 Report Share Posted January 29, 2016 I also doubt you're getting 400W per sub if we are going to consider rise. Probably more like 250W per sub. I think too many people get caught up in this rise talk and game and think it's somehow important for a daily system. Rise should only really matter to someone that is putting their vehicle in the lanes. In my opinion it means very little to a small daily system. Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jman9112 Posted January 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2016 I also doubt you're getting 400W per sub if we are going to consider rise. Probably more like 250W per sub. I think too many people get caught up in this rise talk and game and think it's somehow important for a daily system. Rise should only really matter to someone that is putting their vehicle in the lanes. In my opinion it means very little to a small daily system. If I had more options for impedance or if the alpine did same power at 1 ohm I'd just get a second alipne. But itd make no difference since the power output drops down below 2 ohm Ballin' on a budget. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shogen Posted January 29, 2016 Report Share Posted January 29, 2016 Like clean stated, wouldn't matter for daily. Just an FYI you can do the ss or ap amp. But you'd have to literally double power at least to hear a difference and if that bpx is shyt all you'll do is amplify some shyt sound man My gut says make the box right first I also doubt you're getting 400W per sub if we are going to consider rise. Probably more like 250W per sub. I think too many people get caught up in this rise talk and game and think it's somehow important for a daily system. Rise should only really matter to someone that is putting their vehicle in the lanes. In my opinion it means very little to a small daily system. If I had more options for impedance or if the alpine did same power at 1 ohm I'd just get a second alipne. But itd make no difference since the power output drops down below 2 ohm Pioneer Premier P880PRS ll Front Stage: US Acoustics 4060 - Random speakers currently ll Sub Stage: Crescendo BC3500D - 15" Xcon sealed @ 3.28 cubes ll Electrical: - Kinetik HC1800(front) NEW***DieHard P-2(rear) beaker- I know this sounds like a lot of anime bullshit, but it is true. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoit Posted January 29, 2016 Report Share Posted January 29, 2016 all signs seem to point to a new enclosure...like many others who've stated above. get a better (i'm not gonna suggest rather sealed or ported) box built to spec for those puppies, and go from there. 2007 Chevy Aveo Ls sedan 2 Sundown Xv2 on scv4k @ .5 ohm 2 pair RE XXX 6.5 components on sax200.4 @ 2 ohm Big Three, Three runs 1/0 power from front to back, 1 ground front to back Two runs ground from rear bank to chassis XS power d3100 upfront, 3 Odyssey 2150s in bank Singer 220 amp alt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleanSierra Posted January 29, 2016 Report Share Posted January 29, 2016 I also doubt you're getting 400W per sub if we are going to consider rise. Probably more like 250W per sub. I think too many people get caught up in this rise talk and game and think it's somehow important for a daily system. Rise should only really matter to someone that is putting their vehicle in the lanes. In my opinion it means very little to a small daily system. If I had more options for impedance or if the alpine did same power at 1 ohm I'd just get a second alipne. But itd make no difference since the power output drops down below 2 ohm You're too stuck on amps being the issue. Your box should be the first thing you consider changing out rather than the amp. Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jman9112 Posted January 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2016 Okay, then what box would be the right one, sealed? I don't see how a sealed box is gonna get louder than a ported one. I don't wanna argue (probably sounds like I am) but I just don't understand why the box I have is so bad for the subs. They sound good, and have no port noise, they flex at all the right times and when I'm at tuning they move the less, all in all I don't see the connection to the box being a problem Ballin' on a budget. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleanSierra Posted January 29, 2016 Report Share Posted January 29, 2016 Just keep the box dude. Double or triple your power is definitely the right approach. Check back in when you're in the market for new subs. Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShadeTreeMechanic Posted January 29, 2016 Report Share Posted January 29, 2016 In order to double the volume (3db) you would have to double the power or cone area. A correctly tuned port and box can be more than 5 db over sealed at the tuning frequency. If enclosure is not now ideal, then best bang for the buck would be to make it ideal. 91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco) 250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon) G65 AGM Up Front / Two G31 AGM in Back Pioneer 80PRS CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon) Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jman9112 Posted January 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2016 In order to double the volume (3db) you would have to double the power or cone area. A correctly tuned port and box can be more than 5 db over sealed at the tuning frequency. If enclosure is not now ideal, then best bang for the buck would be to make it ideal. Using the Thiele small on the listed page can anyone model what the best enclosure would be with room to add more power later? If the enclosure is the problem then I need some actual numbers to work with. Thanks to anyone that can help Ballin' on a budget. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShadeTreeMechanic Posted January 29, 2016 Report Share Posted January 29, 2016 I have used the free calculator on dbdynamixaudio.com It gives cut a sheet and 3D diagrams. There are a bunch of free ones online just Google them. 91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco) 250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon) G65 AGM Up Front / Two G31 AGM in Back Pioneer 80PRS CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon) Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.