High transient response

[akuma4u]

It's likely that the dnb music had a higher frequency of bass than the rap, and the system had a low tuned box so your music sounded off. Speakers move in and out 20-80 times a second. Any decent speaker can easily play 150bpm music. Make sure your sub box is tuned for a flat bandwidth instead of tuning low for the hippity hop.

I'm tuned low for hippity hop, and have a generously flat frequency response. it is very responsive even above 100hz (not that I'll have to hear that once I put the HATS in). The hippity hoppity sounds good, the classic rock sounds good, the metal (new and old), the country. I haven't tried any jazz yet. it's possible to have the best of both worlds (tuning low and flat response)

well tunning low usually = flat response thats the benefit. And lower overall output or SPL.

is it possible to have a lot of output/spl with a flat response ???

yes. Is it easy or cheap. No.

Look up some of the "low end monsters" on here...a lot of those guys tune really low and run huge amps and a lot of subs. Definitely can be done. Look for build logs with people with lower tunning, like 32hz and lower.

ok well i cant run huge amps or many subs... 1 12 or 15 or 2 10s or 2 12s is what my car can handle... having said that, will it be very hard to build an SPL/high output flat response 2000-3000rms system?

[aculous]

Look at wicks build. Really nice and solid. If I remember right his is tuned low.

And yea you can do that for the right amount of money. Strong subs with big magnets aren't cheap, amps that do 3K RMS aren't cheap. A electrical system to feed that amp is also not cheap. And the enclosure has to be the right size/design to achieve your goals too.

What car are you planning on building up?

Edit: This is without considering your front stage...or Mids and Highs which I think are the most important part.

[reedal]

It's likely that the dnb music had a higher frequency of bass than the rap, and the system had a low tuned box so your music sounded off. Speakers move in and out 20-80 times a second. Any decent speaker can easily play 150bpm music. Make sure your sub box is tuned for a flat bandwidth instead of tuning low for the hippity hop.

I'm tuned low for hippity hop, and have a generously flat frequency response. it is very responsive even above 100hz (not that I'll have to hear that once I put the HATS in). The hippity hoppity sounds good, the classic rock sounds good, the metal (new and old), the country. I haven't tried any jazz yet. it's possible to have the best of both worlds (tuning low and flat response)

well tunning low usually = flat response thats the benefit. And lower overall output or SPL.

is it possible to have a lot of output/spl with a flat response ???

Yes and no. My reasoning is, what you consider a lot of output might be way more than I do. Or it could be less. Building a new enclosure with a flatter response may actually appear louder to you even if on a meter it isn't, because if your box doesn't respond at the frequencies you want, when you build a new one and have that response with more output, then yes, it will be louder.

If you're willing to play around with an enclosure design software that will also give you theoretical output, then I would recommend do it. Find out the optimal enclosure size for your subs, and design it, look at the response, then build a 1cuft bigger and smaller all tuned at the same frequency, compare the responses, and you'll see what I said to Aculous about smaller is flatter and bigger is peaky.

[akuma4u]

Look at wicks build. Really nice and solid. If I remember right his is tuned low.

And yea you can do that for the right amount of money. Strong subs with big magnets aren't cheap, amps that do 3K RMS aren't cheap. A electrical system to feed that amp is also not cheap. And the enclosure has to be the right size/design to achieve your goals too.

What car are you planning on building up?

yes i know this is going to be expensive, actually extra expensive for me because im in canada and our dollar is so weak. the alternator from DC will cost me close to 1500 alone!

i got about 3-4 cubes to play with

another problem is the car that im working with its a very difficult car to get loud due to the trunk design and small opening for bass to enter the cabin.

Its a genesis coupe.

i think my best bet is to face 2 10s towards the driver and have the trunk and cabin sealed off with port up aiming ring under the curved rear windshield.

currently i have a list of subs im thinking of , very hard to decide because i am not familiar with a lot of the terminology in the t/s parameters.

i have a chance to get a single zv3 15 from a buddy for a good price but i would have to aim that thing up under the rear windshield or back and dont think that would sound as good as sealing off the trunk and having 2 10s or mmmaybe even 2 12s aiming forward..

[aculous]

Look up Creative Sound Solutions. They have a 12" sub thats a really nice driver. And they are in Canadia so it may be better for you.

[akuma4u]

Look up Creative Sound Solutions. They have a 12" sub thats a really nice driver. And they are in Canadia so it may be better for you.

hard site to navigate and limited info, it doesnt even tell you what sizes are available or important details like power handling etc... ill give em a call tmrw and see whats up

[Wicks]

Look at wicks build. Really nice and solid. If I remember right his is tuned low.

And yea you can do that for the right amount of money. Strong subs with big magnets aren't cheap, amps that do 3K RMS aren't cheap. A electrical system to feed that amp is also not cheap. And the enclosure has to be the right size/design to achieve your goals too.

What car are you planning on building up?

Edit: This is without considering your front stage...or Mids and Highs which I think are the most important part.

Thx Dude

I have two 12's ported through the rear deck which has done a 150 so it's possible to get decent output from a tight setup.

On paper my box calculated to be tuned to 38Hz. In the car with all things incorporated, it actually measured at 32Hz.

Keep that in mind, things change from paper and the car will always change the tuning a bit.

[akuma4u]

Look at wicks build. Really nice and solid. If I remember right his is tuned low.

And yea you can do that for the right amount of money. Strong subs with big magnets aren't cheap, amps that do 3K RMS aren't cheap. A electrical system to feed that amp is also not cheap. And the enclosure has to be the right size/design to achieve your goals too.

What car are you planning on building up?

Edit: This is without considering your front stage...or Mids and Highs which I think are the most important part.

Thx Dude

I have two 12's ported through the rear deck which has done a 150 so it's possible to get decent output from a tight setup.

On paper my box calculated to be tuned to 38Hz. In the car with all things incorporated, it actually measured at 32Hz.

Keep that in mind, things change from paper and the car will always change the tuning a bit.

hey, does that mean your 12s AND port are going up through the rear deck?

did you seal off the trunk from the cabin?

what subs are you running?

are you able to post some pics?

EDIT - nevermind i just followed a link to your build.. thats exactly how i want to do my build except for the fact that the space where the seats fold down is like half the size that you have, i think i got like 9 inches of opening height.. so looks like im going to have to run 10s.. wish i could do 12s but that damn space is so small..unless i seal off the trunk from the cabin right in that area and then the bass will have no choice but to go through that opening regardless of the size of sub i use.. i hope that makes sense..

thanks

[Wicks]

Look at wicks build. Really nice and solid. If I remember right his is tuned low.

And yea you can do that for the right amount of money. Strong subs with big magnets aren't cheap, amps that do 3K RMS aren't cheap. A electrical system to feed that amp is also not cheap. And the enclosure has to be the right size/design to achieve your goals too.

What car are you planning on building up?

Edit: This is without considering your front stage...or Mids and Highs which I think are the most important part.

Thx Dude

I have two 12's ported through the rear deck which has done a 150 so it's possible to get decent output from a tight setup.

On paper my box calculated to be tuned to 38Hz. In the car with all things incorporated, it actually measured at 32Hz.

Keep that in mind, things change from paper and the car will always change the tuning a bit.

hey, does that mean your 12s AND port are going up through the rear deck?

did you seal off the trunk from the cabin?

what subs are you running?

are you able to post some pics?

EDIT - nevermind i just followed a link to your build.. thats exactly how i want to do my build except for the fact that the space where the seats fold down is like half the size that you have, i think i got like 9 inches of opening height.. so looks like im going to have to run 10s.. wish i could do 12s but that damn space is so small..unless i seal off the trunk from the cabin right in that area and then the bass will have no choice but to go through that opening regardless of the size of sub i use.. i hope that makes sense..

thanks

Sounds like you have a really tight trunk opening.

If so then I guess that's what you have to deal with.

There are some guys that use larger subs and have the box pushed back a bit into the rear section of the trunk to allow for the larger diameter.

A bit harder to seal off but an option...

[akuma4u]

Look at wicks build. Really nice and solid. If I remember right his is tuned low.

And yea you can do that for the right amount of money. Strong subs with big magnets aren't cheap, amps that do 3K RMS aren't cheap. A electrical system to feed that amp is also not cheap. And the enclosure has to be the right size/design to achieve your goals too.

What car are you planning on building up?

Edit: This is without considering your front stage...or Mids and Highs which I think are the most important part.

Thx Dude

I have two 12's ported through the rear deck which has done a 150 so it's possible to get decent output from a tight setup.

On paper my box calculated to be tuned to 38Hz. In the car with all things incorporated, it actually measured at 32Hz.

Keep that in mind, things change from paper and the car will always change the tuning a bit.

hey, does that mean your 12s AND port are going up through the rear deck?

did you seal off the trunk from the cabin?

what subs are you running?

are you able to post some pics?

EDIT - nevermind i just followed a link to your build.. thats exactly how i want to do my build except for the fact that the space where the seats fold down is like half the size that you have, i think i got like 9 inches of opening height.. so looks like im going to have to run 10s.. wish i could do 12s but that damn space is so small..unless i seal off the trunk from the cabin right in that area and then the bass will have no choice but to go through that opening regardless of the size of sub i use.. i hope that makes sense..

thanks

Sounds like you have a really tight trunk opening.

If so then I guess that's what you have to deal with.

There are some guys that use larger subs and have the box pushed back a bit into the rear section of the trunk to allow for the larger diameter.

A bit harder to seal off but an option...

yes exactly... push it back 4-6 inches seal it off tight then use 1 15 or 2 12s or whatever , since its sealed off, the bass has no choice but to escape through the small opening which is really more like a port than an opening due to it being like 9 inches x 30 or whatever..

i hope that works out... i really picked the wrong car to do an aftermarket system in .. if i knew it would be this hard i would have never bought this car to begin with.

please go here and go about half way down for some pics from my car.. you will see what im forced to work with

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/198732-loudest-splsql-sealed-set-up/page-5