Jump to content

Skar Audio SPX65C Components Crossover Settings


Recommended Posts

I have the Skar Audio SPX65C 6.5" component speakers. There are 3 switches on the crossovers and I do not understand them. Is there anyone that can explain each of the 3 switches to me, what they mean, what their functions are, what each setting would do? My car audio terminology is not very advanced so simple terms would be best, if possible. Here is a pic of the crossover then 3 pics of the different switches. any help is appreciated. In case you have trouble viewing th epics, here is a description of the 3 switches:

"TW" - settings are 0, -3db, -6db
"Mid" - settings are high, flat
Unlabeled switch - settings are 18db, 12db

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The TW switch is tweeter level. 0db is flat or, full power to the tweeter. -3 & -6db are attenuated settings, in case the tweeter sounds too bright.

Mid is the same for the midbass driver. It attenuates the midrange if your midbass doesn't sound right... which is pretty common in doors that aren't properly deadened and sealed.

The unlabeled switch is the crossover slope. It changes how much attenuation there is outside the crossover frequency. Set at 12db means that the frequencies outside the crossover frequency will be attenuated 12db per octave. Likewise for 18.

There is no "right" or "wrong" setting with the crossovers, there is only what sounds best and what keeps the speakers from breaking up or being over driven.

Oh and, those are nice sounding components. You'll enjoy them.

Facebook: facebook.com/audioanarchyllc

Instagram: audioanarchyllc

Youtube: youtube.com/bbeljefe

aaresizehorizontal_zps47821bb2.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 years later...

Yes I just bought the rp75.4 abM going to 6x9 coaxials and 5.25 coaxials and rp 1500.1 going to two vd10s from skar and I’m installing today/tomorrow .. how do you suggest that I set the crossover on the 75.4 for the coaxials? There’s a channel 1,2,3,4 with gain ,hpf 20hz to 5000 hz and lpf is 50hz to 500hz im guessing I don’t touch the lpf and set the hpf to 500hz and above ? And it has xover settings for 1&2 and 3&4 a switch has hpf,full,&lp/bp I guess set it on hpf? What does the full position do? And I have a 1/0 gauge wiring kit ofc from skar also am going to run that from battery to a stinger 2 farad capacitor then to a truconnect distribution block 1/0 to 4 gauge and am gonna put that as close to the 1500.1 amp as possible also for clarity if I have 2 2ohm dvc vd10s and wired them pos to pos and neg to neg (not connecting the two subs) then pos and neg to the quick connect speaker in and out straight to pos and neg on amp this is 2 ohm ??? Correct? When you parrellel them and then voice coil to the quick connect in and out the quick connect to the positive and negative on the amp this is 2 ohm or 1/2 ohm I think it’s 2?!! Ughh sorry man I just don’t know everything and really want to do this right. I appreciate any suggestions or comments 

thank you 🙏 oh yea if you see the picture of the vd10s they’re down facing (inverted) and this is a sealed sub box, what would u suggest? Keep them inverted or put in flush? 

dan Help dude lol

890D42B6-F5FB-435F-A94A-B3A44777737E.jpeg

01773815-8D26-49E6-B125-7BCBE3361F55.jpeg

A4A300DD-0710-4030-96AE-7EAE71F494A2.jpeg

015A606D-DD12-4ABA-965A-1549AB8BC885.jpeg

B5610390-98BE-4327-B3F5-B493064E5046.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As far as the mids and highs go, I'd set the HPF at about 100 hz, and that's it. Set your gains with a DD-1 (best), an oscilloscope (good), or digital multimeter (better than nothing). There are videos on YouTube that will teach you how. 

I'm not going to tell you to get rid of the caps, but I've never had good luck with them. 

I would just keep the subs flush personally, but you can invert them and see which sound you like better. If you invert them, just make sure you wire them 180 degrees out of phase. 

I'm not quite following how you wired the subs. Are you connecting both subs to a single quick connect? Or does each woofer have its own? 

  • Thanks (+1 Rep) 1

2011 Chevy Silverado under construction

My build log here. Check it out! 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So you have a speaker terminal for each sub? So 2 speaker terminals? 

In that case, for the amplifier to see a final 2 ohm load, you would wire each like this so each would have a final 4 ohm load878171161_Screenshot_20211018-204753_SamsungInternet.thumb.jpg.91900dd5d531764cf31e8531157b4782.jpgand then once you hook each sub up to their respective speaker terminals in the amp, the amp would see a final 2 ohm load. 

  • Thanks (+1 Rep) 1

2011 Chevy Silverado under construction

My build log here. Check it out! 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yea but I have two dvc 2ohm vd10s so I want my rp1500.1 at 2ohm but really I’d love to see the 1ohm load but I screwed up and got the 2ohm subs … I’d I had 2 dvc 4 ohm subs then I can do the 1ohm load … I didn’t know that when. I bought the 2ohm dvc vd10s like a month ago and now I bought all skar amps and door speakers (mids and highs) all skar …. And another thing is I juat bought a kicker nickel plated positive terminal for the battery and it takeS my 1/0 gauge ofc wire and I got a rp75.4 channel amp for my coaxials in my four doors then I got a distribution block 1/0 gauge input to 2 4 gauge output and a 2 farad stinger capacitor for the rp1500.1 now after all this I’ve got I am. Kinda stumped on how to best wire this all up. Can you give any recommendations? Thank you for your help I really appreciate it . ( this is everything I have to install ) “see pics”

thank you again 

dan 

 

631F0CF1-581D-419B-93DC-996B6473F9B6.jpeg

B5116BAA-9437-4CC9-B575-B76938A442F7.jpeg

FF010771-442D-4529-ACC4-2BC561A5493C.jpeg

F25B2D96-DA2A-42AC-AFCB-7E785D447E6E.jpeg

0B1062C6-0EFD-4892-93F2-546DBC743234.jpeg

54F7F26B-18DD-49C0-B858-442FFF4560EA.jpeg

image.jpg

image.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Dantyson92 said:

Yea but I have two dvc 2ohm vd10s so I want my rp1500.1 at 2ohm but really I’d love to see the 1ohm load but I screwed up and got the 2ohm subs … I’d I had 2 dvc 4 ohm subs then I can do the 1ohm load … I didn’t know that when. I bought the 2ohm dvc vd10s like a month ago and now I bought all skar amps and door speakers (mids and highs) all skar …. And another thing is I juat bought a kicker nickel plated positive terminal for the battery and it takeS my 1/0 gauge ofc wire and I got a rp75.4 channel amp for my coaxials in my four doors then I got a distribution block 1/0 gauge input to 2 4 gauge output and a 2 farad stinger capacitor for the rp1500.1 now after all this I’ve got I am. Kinda stumped on how to best wire this all up. Can you give any recommendations? Thank you for your help I really appreciate it . ( this is everything I have to install ) “see pics”

thank you again 

dan 

IMG_1125.MOVUnavailable

 

631F0CF1-581D-419B-93DC-996B6473F9B6.jpeg

B5116BAA-9437-4CC9-B575-B76938A442F7.jpeg

FF010771-442D-4529-ACC4-2BC561A5493C.jpeg

F25B2D96-DA2A-42AC-AFCB-7E785D447E6E.jpeg

0B1062C6-0EFD-4892-93F2-546DBC743234.jpeg

54F7F26B-18DD-49C0-B858-442FFF4560EA.jpeg

image.jpg

image.jpg

Yeah, 1 ohm isn't going to happen. But if you wire each sub to a 4 ohm load each, then connect each sub to the amp, the amp will see a final 2 ohm load. You don't have to connect the 2 subs. If each sub is 4 ohm each, then because it's a single channel mono block, so connecting both 4 ohm subs to the amp will give the single channel a final 2 ohm load. 

To install all that stuff, you first should start with what's called the big 3/4 upgrade. You need to upgrade the cable from the alternator positive to the battery positive (preferably for the power you're running, a high amp hour AGM) to at least 4 ga OFC (or 1/0 depending on your alternator amperage). Then upgrade

The cable from the battery negative to the engine block/ alternator to preferably 1/0 (everything should be OFC cable or at least pure copper. No CCA cable). Then from the engine block, a nice thick cable going to a spot on the frame that you have cleaned. I usually recommend a nice thick one from the battery negative to the chassis/ firewall as well. 

Then from the battery positive, 1/0 to a 350a fuse as close to the battery as you can. Then from that fuse, back to I guess the cap. I've never used a cap, and everyone that I've spoken to that used to use them, won't ever again. I guess they cause more problems than they fix. So in my opinion, I'd ditch it. But if you want to use it, go ahead. I ain't ya daddy. 

Then, take that 1/0 into a dual fused distribution block in the general area of the amplifiers. (There's different ways of fusing, but this is how I do it) One slot will have a 120a fuse. That will be for the 4 ga going to the subwoofer amplifier. The other will have a 60a fuse with 8 ga going to the 4 channel amp. 

Any other questions, don't hesitate to ask bud! 

 

 

 

2011 Chevy Silverado under construction

My build log here. Check it out! 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Run it at .5 see what it does

06 Charger

Pioneer double din

Pioneer 6.5 and 6×9's

Knukoncept Krystal kable rca's

0 ga knukoncept kolossus wire 

Big 3 same wire ^ 1 run 

8g karma ss speaker wire

Sundown sia 3500d at 1ohm

2 Sundown U series 12's

Duralast platinum agm H7 (Main)

Xs power d3400

Trying to find a ho alt

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 324 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
×
×
  • Create New...