Allen Lancos Posted February 18, 2016 Report Share Posted February 18, 2016 Just my 2 cents, your not wanting to spend any or very little money yet you want more output! But at the same time you are wanting to put more load on your already struggling power system. In doing so you could very well cost yourself more in the end than you would if properly upgraded your electricals. Putting more load on your power hungry amp can lead to failure, putting more load on your alternator which sounds to be working at full capacity could also lead to failure. Yes adding another battery will help you maintain voltage "longer" but once you drop that supply you are again at the mercy of your factory alternater. Another alternative would be to look at your current setup. Is your box prefab or custom built? A custom box tuned correctly could give you the additional output you are looking for. But you still need to upgrade your electricals if you drawing more power than your system can produce. Example being i just went from 4 (12's) in my truck down to 2 (12') in a proper tuned box and id say i have over double the output i had. Just adding a speaker isnt always the answer! If i were you i would hold off until i got my new ride and completely redesign everything and go from there! "Think i read you were selling current vehicle in the near future" Most important thing i learned in audio is dont rush it, take the time to do it right! I'll do body filler all day every day, but this reinforced, fortified fucking kitty hair can kiss my balls. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTxBeeR Posted February 18, 2016 Report Share Posted February 18, 2016 More batteries will not help the power when wiring that low. If you are already getting into battery power you, you are already not using the alt. Won't help too much, as well, pretty much every single amp is in stable to 1 ohm unless stated otherwise. On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irocthestreetz Posted February 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2016 Thanks guys I'll probably just stick with what I have then. I could recone to a D1 but I don't see the 3db increase being worth it for $500 more for everything Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarball Posted February 19, 2016 Report Share Posted February 19, 2016 Thanks guys I'll probably just stick with what I have then. I could recone to a D1 but I don't see the 3db increase being worth it for $500 more for everything Good decision, stick with what you have until you get a new ride and are ready to commit to something better. CURRENT SYSTEM: Alternator: Stock alt on mids/highs Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v Batteries: (2) XS D1400s Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks Headunit: 80-PRS Sub Amp: DC 5.0k Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal. Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4 Active Components: Mids RE XXX 6.5c Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar) Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab. Build Log If you do business with me please leave feedback here: FEEDBACK THREAD Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notorious97200 Posted February 23, 2016 Report Share Posted February 23, 2016 Thanks guys I'll probably just stick with what I have then. I could recone to a D1 but I don't see the 3db increase being worth it for $500 more for everything You'll never have a 3 dB increase just by wiring lower ! You would need some more batteries and a HO alt : your current electrical won't handle it. Maybe you just need another custom enclosure ? Or keep what you have, and start saving and thinking about your new system in your new ride. black BMW X1 2.0 l 192 hp OEM head unit, Amplifiers : Audison AP 8.9 amp with integrated DSP and Ampere Audio 1200. Focal ES 100 K in front doors, and Dayton RS 180 for midbass under the front seats. 2 SSA DEMONS 10" subs, in a 2.6 ft3 ported box. SecondSkin Damplifier on front doors, and Luxury Liner Pro for the cargo area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irocthestreetz Posted February 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2016 Thanks guys I'll probably just stick with what I have then. I could recone to a D1 but I don't see the 3db increase being worth it for $500 more for everythingYou'll never have a 3 dB increase just by wiring lower ! You would need some more batteries and a HO alt : your current electrical won't handle it.Maybe you just need another custom enclosure ? Or keep what you have, and start saving and thinking about your new system in your new ride. Sorry I meant 3db increase from running double the cone area Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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